That was my guess also. Definately not stuck open. Its free as a bird...

What is the number on your DME?

Bosch

0 261 200 077

Made in Germany


944.618.121.04

TYP 944 MWN-01

Waiting to go get myself an AFM and DME from my parts guy.

In the mean time..

I was browsing through some various search results and I came across a thread on the aftermarket injector hats. Seems that if their not seated properly, they'll be shooting streams of fuel instead of a fine spray.

Possibly contributing to my super-rich mixture??

So I need new info!

How fine should the mist be?
How far back should I force those aftermarket hats on?

I reacon the super rich mixture you are getting is caused by misfiring.

"I have rebuilt the head on my 924S and have everything back together. Now the car starts, but dies instantly. The only way the car will run is at WOT, even half or 3/4 throttle will kill the engine. I believe it is a vacuum leak."

Just like my problem.

Taken from http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/160841-injector-spray.html

Actually, if the fuel injectors inject a stream rather than a finely atomized spray, you will be on the lean side since streamed in fuel will not burn as completely (hence, excess air) as a finely atomized spray.

Then why are the plugs so black? All I know is that I have the same symptoms as the member in that thread I just posted a link to. I'll try mashin those hats on the injectors and see if they click into place anymore then they have. Totally sounds like the kind of solution I'd need to fix a running issue with this car lol

I should rename this thing 'irony'. lol...

The plugs will be black if they are not igniting the mixture properly. This will happen both when the mixture is too rich or too lean or the ignition circuit is not up to standard. Rich mixture would normally help when cold and not cause the stalling you describe. I would double check that coolant sensor and do check if any of the two terminals of the sensor is grounded. This can be done by disconnecting the sensor lead, put one wire to the cylinder head were the sensor is bolted (ground) in and the other one the sensor terminal. Check both terminals. In both cases you should have open circuit. If not the ECU will get the wrong signal.
Alternatively if you cannot measure the sensor like that just disconnect it when the engine is cold. If the engine starts and runs OK for a few seconds without pumping the gas pedal then you know for sure it is the sensor.

Grounding. Could be bad ground between the engine and the chassis and the chassis and the battery. Note this would change the engine temp reading.

Interesting..

When I want to know what my injectors are doing I pull them and put a clear tube on them so I can watch them as my engine turns over. If you see streams instead of a fine mist, then you know what the problem is. Hold a plug on the intake to see what color the spark is...the color tells the condition. Blue is best, yellow is worst, orange in between...if I remember that correctly. Car should run on orange or above. If it appears weak, clean grounds as SoCal suggested or look for other poor connections.

Spark is white/blue and stupid hott. I held one on my open palm just for you guys.

Ok so I didnt really but I am intensely curious as to how those injectors are doin.