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Join Date: May 2007
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Question 944 Tach - Inop

Hey Guys,

GREAT SITE!!

Anyhow, new guy here... After nearly 7 years without a vintage Porsche, I rejoined the ranks of 944 Owners yesterday... Finally got some time on my hands again and found a deal I couldn't pass up..

Anyhow, She's an 84 944 N/A with 86K and she's in pretty damn good shape for as cheap as I got her for.. She's got a few problems which I'll be throwing handfulls of cash at starting tommorow, but I wanted to try and attack some stuff on my own..

The Tach and MPG Computer gauge are completely inoperative... Where should I start troubleshooting? I couldn't locate a fuse under the dash.. I'm assuming that both of these gauges are connected to the same thing? maybe?

Any Ideas?

Thanks in Advance!

-9

Old 05-23-2007, 09:03 PM
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Pretty car!

Check out www.clarks-garage.com.

That was the first place these guys sent me when I logged on. It's a great site. Click on the "Garage Shop Manual" on the top left corner of the page. There is a section about your gauges.

Ask here if you have any problems and always ask here first if you're going to buy anything for the car at all. These guys in here have been great and have been around for a while. They'll all help you out!

Welcome aboard!
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:10 PM
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i wonder if the wiring is just undone on the back of the tach... if its a bad tach, i have a spare.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:20 PM
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Thanks!

Im going to pull it out tommorow and check.. She was idling really rough at first and the guy wanted a mere 1700 for her.. Having owned a few old gals, I asked a few questions and got some uder the hood pics sent to me.. I decided to drive from Vegas to San Diego and tow her home yesterday.. Today I put in a new Fuel Injector to replace a leaky and obstructed one, and replaced 2 vaccum lines and she is purring like a kitten already.. I'm thinking it was worth the 10 hours of driving for sure!

Gonna take'er in for a preventative timing belt this week, and have the mechanic try and troubleshoot a clanky drivetrain sound (I'm thinking a dying CV perhaps?)

Other than that, she dropped two tiny pin drops of oil on my garage floor, I think it may just be the oil pan plug (or worst case the pan gasket) , The clutch pedal is sticky and probably needs a new spring, and her belts squeal like my girlfriend when she saw my latest impulse purchase sitting in the garage

Not too bad Considering..

Nynor, thanks.. I'll let you know if I need a gauge..!

-9
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:52 PM
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If you tap while driving down the road, does it jump over 3K. If not, I think wires. Early gauges are not great. If you replace make sure it is an early gauge with an early gauge. Do not mix with the 924S's or your temp gauge will not function. This also seems to be the fate if you go aftermarket Tach. Then you would need to go aftermarket Temp. At least that's my experience. Has to do with the Ground impedance, I believe.

Tach's have three things they need. Negative wire (green) from the - of coil /DME, 12V and Gnd chassis. As the guys said. See www.clarks-garage.com and look up the Schematic and guage info.
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1987 924S with 968 Drive front to back, Bilstein Insert on mod/stock Struts, 450# Hypercoils, 28mm Torsion Bars, Weltmeister Adjustable Sway Bars, Lindsey 968 Light flywheel, Spec Stage II Clutch, ToYO RA1's, Auto Power Cage & 6 pt Harness, KLA Strut Brace, Greasy hands, heavy foot, and lots of smiles
Old 05-23-2007, 09:54 PM
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hell, if you need it for testing, i'll send it to you for cost of shipping.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:59 PM
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Thanks Jim.. Checked out Clarks - Wow what a resource!

The whole tach cluster is completely inoperative (including the MPG needle) so Im going to first check power behind the gauge. I'll repost my results tommorow!

-9
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DC9driver

Gonna take'er in for a preventative timing belt this week, and have the mechanic try and troubleshoot a clanky drivetrain sound (I'm thinking a dying CV perhaps?)

Clutch disk. Center rubber has separated. The clanking on and off the throttle in gear is the safety ears hitting each other. Real soon you will have no connection between the engine and the transmission.
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:20 PM
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Shoot, hope thats worst case scenario.. Im not sure I described it quite right because the clutch feels pretty good (I think), but you could be right.. The clutch pedal DOES get hung up (no slippage of clutch though) and I have to apply back pressure to the pedal to get it full aft again about 1 out of 3 times I press the pedal.. Is this another indicator of a bad clutch disk?

I dread that 2K$ fix if thats the case... Anyone know a good Porsche mechanic in Vegas??
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:44 PM
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my clutch was fine to drive with, in fact i drove a couple thousand miles in a few months without realizing it was the clutch 'limp-home' teeth. i just figured my ring and pinion were on the way out from autocrossing/DE. the clutch pedal hanging up is probably the clutch master cylinder, to save trouble many suggest doing the clutch master and slave at the same time. the car looks to be in good shape, with a little money (okay, maybe another $1,700), she will provide you with many many years of service
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Old 05-24-2007, 08:00 AM
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So, I haven't had time to deal with the Tach issue yet... Plan on it soon..

I took the car out for some highway driving today to get it smogged... No-Go, as I posted above. Going to change out the o2 sensor..

Anyhow, As for the clutch, I'm not going to attempt that one myself, being that I'm pretty much a novice and that seems to be an incredibly tough job.. I'm going to take it to a garage.. Today it seemed to drive pretty good... What are some symptoms of the bad clutch disk described? Would one symptom be a sound much like a metal chain being dragged along the street when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear? Because it does that...

I appologize for my lack of knowlege, still learning alot about the car.. My last Porsche was in MUCH better condition, so I didn't get much experience with diagnostics..

-9
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Old 05-25-2007, 04:12 PM
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No problem with your lack of knowledge. Everyone here is very helpful! I would have never done any work on my car till I found this site and Clark's. I had most of the same problems you are having. One day it just quit working. $1800 at the transmission shop. I had the replace the rear main seal while they were there. That would be something to keep in mind even if it's not bad.
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'87 944 N/A (first Porsche)
'95 E-350 Diesel
'03 S-Type Jag 3.0
'03 Taurus SES
'06 Eddie Bauer Explorer

RIP SoCal
Old 05-25-2007, 07:13 PM
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DC, I'd check out the local PCA club up in Vegas, http://www.lvrpca.com/events.html and hook up with some 944 guys. Most will point or show you how save you some cash and trouble. Then you can start really driven.
Basic Clutch job will cost 1200-1700 or so. If they go in there , make sure you order a Rear Seal (behind clutch). Also your Pressure plate is probably questionable. I'd buy a light flywheel pressure plate, new clutch, and throw out bearing kit. It's a chunk of change but go in once is the only way to attack this lady. IMOP
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1987 924S with 968 Drive front to back, Bilstein Insert on mod/stock Struts, 450# Hypercoils, 28mm Torsion Bars, Weltmeister Adjustable Sway Bars, Lindsey 968 Light flywheel, Spec Stage II Clutch, ToYO RA1's, Auto Power Cage & 6 pt Harness, KLA Strut Brace, Greasy hands, heavy foot, and lots of smiles
Old 05-25-2007, 09:23 PM
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My job cost $1800 for everything Jim just listed. They resurfaced my flywheel though. The rear seal was important. I always seem to have trouble with rear seals leaking. They are only a couple bucks and it's the labor that kills you. They put mine in for "free." I called them just as they were getting ready to put it back together and asked them to replace it for me. They had it an extra day because they had to wait for the rear seal. But it's done! A cash deal, if possible, is usually good for saving you some money if it is a smaller, local shop. They ate the tax for me ($160), did the rear seal for "free," and gave me a 1 year warrenty.
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'87 944 N/A (first Porsche)
'95 E-350 Diesel
'03 S-Type Jag 3.0
'03 Taurus SES
'06 Eddie Bauer Explorer

RIP SoCal
Old 05-26-2007, 06:55 AM
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I would still check out the cv's first. They may just need repacked. Both my cars have experienced this lately one from sitting the other from abuse

The clutch would sound like and old u joint going (in another car) bad where it takes a little extra time before engaging and then clangs.
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:08 PM
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Will do... I found a reputable Porsch mechanic local (Carls?) here in Vegas.. Would it make sense (save money) to get the OEM cluch kit from ebay (380$) with pressure plate and spring center disk, and throw out bearing and BRING the parts in to the mechanic? Or just let them get the parts?

-9
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:56 PM
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My parts cost $900. I would take the parts with you if they are the correct parts and are that cheap on ebay. Most places around me charge by the hour and just pass the cost of the part off to you. Some places are picky on the parts they use and might refuse to do the work if the quality of the parts do not meet their standards. Odds are pretty good they will have to wait for something to be shipped if they get the parts themselves. So they will not have to wait for parts and you just might get the car back quicker if you take them with you. Don't forget the rear main seal!
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'87 944 N/A (first Porsche)
'95 E-350 Diesel
'03 S-Type Jag 3.0
'03 Taurus SES
'06 Eddie Bauer Explorer

RIP SoCal
Old 05-26-2007, 03:04 PM
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Right on..

On ebay it's a Sachs OEM NEW cluch kit... Pressure Plate, Disk, and Bearing.

It sure appears that the part is OEM quality.. Think I'll buy it.

Tried to post the link, but no workie..

anyhow, for sale by gripforce-clutches.

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Old 05-26-2007, 03:13 PM
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