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Tidybuoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
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Question about Stereo, amps, speakers for the Hi-fi buffs

I've got a few questions and could really use some imput from the experts. I've been collecting various stereo components and I'm about ready to install:

To start, I have a 6 mth old Sony head unit with component output jacks - it's currently installed with stock 4x6 speakers. I'm planning on using my amp that is currently installed in my 914 (since the 914 is out-of-service for a while). I think it's 250w.

I purchased a nice set of 6" component speakers for the back which I want to install using the 968 or 944 upgraded factory setup. I bought the speakers from a hi-end shop and I haven't installed yet - I've been waiting until I have time to install an amp and I've been trying to find the 944 upgraded sound speaker grills. I finally bought the rear grills from the dealer after having no luck on eBay.

When I opened the speaker box and pulled out the components, I noticed (no directions or schematic) I may have misplaced after opening up the box the last time.

My question: the crossover has 6 terminals (input + & - is obvious) but the others say (W + & -) and (T + & -). I'm assuming that the T terminals are for the tweeters but I was wondering if anyone here knows for sure. Unfortunately, the shop that I got them at closed down and I can't ask. Also, the speakers don't have any brand markings so I have no idea what brand they are. I did however, listen to them at the shop and they are very good - they should be as they were about $650

Next question: I'm going to install the amp in the driver side cargo bin at the rear. Currently, I have the factory-installed cell phone there so there is a nice mounting plate there that was installed by Porsche. I'm wondering what is the best wiring for the Power and speakers - I have large monster cable in the 914 but I'm wondering if I can use solid core coper wiring that is thick (like household electrical wire) or should I be using the monster cable that's stranded wire but as thick as a battery cable - I'm only asking because I was hoping I could make it easier to route to the front of the car. I need advice on the speaker wire too.

Next question: I picked up a set of 968 rear 6" seperates so I could use the mounting bracket - however, my new 6" seperates won't fit perfectly so I am planning on cutting a bracket out of 1/4 plywood - Anyone with a better suggestion?

Next question: My head unit has a amp component output but just for the rears. I'm asuming the front speakers will be non-amped - and, my 250w amp is 2-channel. Does this sound about right and how do guys install sub-woofers? Is this normally done with a seperate amp? I doubt I will even go this route but I was just wondering.

Last question: I purchased the 944 upgraded door speaker housing but it really isn't all that great and I'm thinking that I may just stick with the 4x6's up front. However, I really would like the add the top-of-the-door tweeters. Does anyone know if there is such a thing as 4x6 seperates? Or, are there any round speakers that will fit in the stock 4x6 locations without too much modification?

Sorry for the long post but I like to get completely familiar before tearing the car apart.

Thanks...............................Vern

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'06 Cayman S - Arctic Silver, "R" Springs & Struts, Spyder 19" Wheels, 82mm Plenum & Throttle Body.
'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic, PMO ITB, Electromotive Mgt
'16 BMW R Nine T (the fun one) & '17 BMW G310R

Last edited by Tidybuoy; 11-09-2007 at 10:23 AM..
Old 11-09-2007, 10:17 AM
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q1) woofer pos & neg - tweeter pos & neg. your hunch was right

q2) do NOT use household power cable. use the monster. always use proper cables for the app. your local shop can help with the perfect recommendation

q3) if you have metalworking skill sheetmetal is always a better option, but you have to decide

q4) if your head unit has only one set of red and white, then you are correct - no front amp component out

q5) if you mean 4x6 separates where the main is 4x6 with a separate tweet, I haven't seen any lately. there are some good 6inch separates available. I just installed some Diamonds in a silver rose, and they were good. just remember, you won't have the width to fit these into the stock holes, so you'll have tomake some modifications

sorry I couldn't be more in-depth, but I'm in a rush. hope this helps
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Old 11-09-2007, 11:51 AM
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hmmmm......W = woofer (I'm dumb... lol)
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Vern
'06 Cayman S - Arctic Silver, "R" Springs & Struts, Spyder 19" Wheels, 82mm Plenum & Throttle Body.
'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic, PMO ITB, Electromotive Mgt
'16 BMW R Nine T (the fun one) & '17 BMW G310R
Old 11-09-2007, 02:57 PM
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ok for Q2 i would say for a 250w amp you do not need "a battery cable" to power it at the biggest i would used a 8awg (gauge) and you would most likly only need a 10awg to get all that it could supply.

Q3- I would not recommend ply wood for any thing in a car you could use Fiberboard or just like the other post sheet metal.

Q4- for how do we install subs?.... well you would just run your RCA cbles to the amp from the deck (your sterio). I have mine along with my switch wire (its the blue wire on most deck that doesnt get used or could also be called the power antenia wire) run that back with your rca cables to the amp I have my wires run under the carpet on the passanger side of the car and i have extra wires so if you buy a amp install kit at you local best buy or car sterio shop they should have premaid kits and they are non car spasific. then use the grounding point at the rear of the hatch on the drivers side under the carpet. now for the SUB. I have a "Tube" sub you could use one in a box or just use what ever you want but you need to know if it can handle more than 250w most do. and just connect it in the MONO fashion. ( that would be the R + to the L -. yes that is right side + to the left side - . that is call bridging the amp to get all the power out of it to one speaker. it is more power than what your amp is rated at per channel. any more questions? if you would like picture i would me more than happy to get some for you.
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Old 11-10-2007, 03:17 PM
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I wouldn't amp your rear speakers only. If anything, amp your front speakers and leave your rears off your deck. I don't like my sound all at the front either, but it sounds like crap when its coming predominantly from the rear. Maybe you can switch your f/r around? As in use your rear amp on your head unit to power your front speakers? Also, are you sure it's "REAR" for the rear speakers, and not subs? Seems weird that a head unit would be set up to purposefully produce a weird sound setup.

I have my front speakers amplified and my rears running off my head unit. I have 4x6s in the doors and a separate pair of really nice tweeters with their own crossovers. I have my rear speakers in my rear hatch area (the stock rears were cut). They're 6x9's in their own boxes. They help fill in the sound but they don't produce the "music." But you notice when they're not there. I also have two 10" subs (I really could do with just one 8", but whatever I had them already and they're good...). I don't like rap music or whatever so "ghetto blasting" wasn't the plan.

Honestly, I'd just buy a better deck. Sonys aren't the best anyways. Most of the higher-end models have a lot of nice features, too. You don't have to spend a lot, either. I got a top of the line Kenwood for $200-it was a closeout last year. Check out the stores in your area for good deals. The one thing I've learned is to not buy cheap crap because you end up regretting it later, and then you have to buy the expensive stuff anyways. It ends up costing you more.

Just my .02
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Last edited by Aufgeladen944; 11-10-2007 at 06:11 PM..
Old 11-10-2007, 06:07 PM
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Well, my project is in progress but it's going to take me a few more days. I'll post pics later.

I originally was going to pull the amp out of my 914 but I went to circuit city this weekend and ended up buying a new one. I also purchased an install kit which includes the proper wiring for the power and very nice rca cables.

My next step was to install the amp. I was going to use the rear side tubs (one of which currently has the factory installed cell phone - which I'm leaving). My second choice was in the spare tire area but if I do that, the spare won't fit or won't be able to come out after the amp is installed.

I came up with a great solution...I went back to circuit city and purchased a flat screen tv install bracket (a very small one for 13" tv's). It's only 6x6 square. I then cut a piece of sheet metal to fit the bottom of the amp and mounted to the tv bracket. Now the amp will slide up and down on the bracket if I need to access the spare tire. The bracket has tightening screws so the amp stays stationery. The biggest problem was drilling holes for the bracket since the gas tank is litterlally 1/8 inch away. But, I was able to drill holes vertically & dead center where the tank curves. It worked out perfect.

My next project is to install the rear speakers which is not difficult but time consuming since the panels don't just pop off.

Thanks for the suggestions, I bought sheet metal for the rear speakers and dyna-mat. I also purchased a new jig saw, metal cutting blades, and various other items which will only make this project cost excessive but I love getting new tools.

Vern
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'06 Cayman S - Arctic Silver, "R" Springs & Struts, Spyder 19" Wheels, 82mm Plenum & Throttle Body.
'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic, PMO ITB, Electromotive Mgt
'16 BMW R Nine T (the fun one) & '17 BMW G310R
Old 11-12-2007, 10:58 AM
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You definately want to use stranded wire for the amplifier B+. Also make sure you fuse it @ the battery. I have a fairly similar system in my 84 that really sounds good. I went w/ Polk 4X6 coaxs in the front stock holes to avoid modification, component 6" in the rear locations. I had to take the panels out and cut the metal behind to fit the driivers, and I have 1 6X9 and 1 10" sub in the back wells in sealed boxes. I know it sounds weird but that is the size that will fit. I have a 250 Watt SONY amp under the passenger seat. The seat is shimmed up 3/4" to clear the amp. I never sit there anyway and besides 6'4" fat chicks normally don't get offered rides in Porsches anyway. I used a Blaupunkt powered head unit to drive the fronts and rears and the SONY amp for the woofers. The audio purists won't like the choice of a Japanese Blaupunkt but it looks good to me and was $100 on Ebay. The whole set up cost well under a grand in parts. I was taking the car apart anyway so the labor wasn't too bad. BTW get hold of Partsexpress.com for the sound dampening, you will save a ton of dough. I matted every possible surface including the rear quarters, doors, floorboards, etc and then sprayed undercoating in all the door panels on top of the mat. It really helps, especially w/ the exhaust I am running. Taking the side panels out is not too bad if you take your time. Despite what most people will post you do not have to remove the windows. Lift up the molding w/ a wide flat tip screwdriver and it will come out. Take your time so you don't rip the vinyl. You will have to take out the strip on the headliner above the back seat and there are a couple screws by the back seats, no big deal. One other thing you will need to do is eliminate the stock front / read fader in the console and run dedicated wire to the speakers. I just used 16ga stranded, PVC jacketed, it's cheap and durable.



Amp mounted under seat



One woofer under stock carpet. I peeled the foam off the back of the carpet.



Nothing is visible w/ the carpet in place.



Blaupunkt head unit



Door panels look stock



This part sounds better than the stereo



It looks like an equalizer but it's the control unit for the MAF.





The view most people see of the car

Good luck with your project

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Last edited by shikzachaser; 11-12-2007 at 06:51 PM..
Old 11-12-2007, 06:35 PM
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