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Flex plate damper repair

I have read through some posts on the flex plat on the 944 automatic transmission cars. Mine just started clanking and I smell burning rubber so I am guessing that is the problem. Will anyone venture a guess as to how many hours for a shop to repair this and whether a used plate will hold up or if new part is essential? Is it worth doing on a 85.5 car that is only a 5-6 body wise with 130k?

Thanks!
Old 11-12-2007, 02:59 PM
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Hi, I have seen used ones on ebay for around 250. They all seem to crack the older they get. A new one would be very expensive. The auto transmissions are also pretty heavy. If you could do the work and find a used one then I would say that it is worth it if not then the cost might outway the gain.
Old 11-12-2007, 03:08 PM
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this is not a part to install used - since rubber ages, an old one is not going to be much better than the one you pulled out before it failed

the exception could be if you found one that had already been replaced, and then they wrecked the car

i am shopping for a tip cab 968 for the father in law, and have this same concern - i am budgeting in an extra 3k to just deal with it upon purchase if it has not already been done
Old 11-12-2007, 04:41 PM
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Several years ago new from dealer was $900 to $1000. Shop cost or wholesale was a little over $600. Some dealers give racers, PCA members, etc a discount off of list. The sme work is involed as a clutch job.

drew1
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:23 AM
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+1 on Flashes comment [no used dampner]. I haven't done the one in the 968 yet but in my 924 (if i'd done it all at once) took about 4hrs (give or take a few). I would think th e944/68 models would take a bit longer.
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:18 AM
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Where are you located in VA??? I am in raleigh and may be abel to help.

Mark
Old 11-13-2007, 03:41 AM
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I don't have an automatic - but I remember some discussion on here where someone replaced their flex/damper plate with a flywheel and spring centered clutch from a 5 speed car. You could probasbly use used parts cause your never going to disengage it or have any wear on the disk. Do a search!
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Old 11-13-2007, 08:06 AM
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I had this very problem with my last automatic and was quoted 2,000 to have the job done - $4,000 in your money. I too thought the job wasn't worth paying for but the car was in such good condition that I was loathe to scrap her.

In the end I bit the bullet, bought a brand new damper and did the job myself. It really isn't that hard when you get going. The biggest hurdle appears to be dropping the transmission - you wonder how an earth you're going to lower such a hefty piece of metal. But it's really quite easy. Jack the car up so you can support it at a good working height on axle stands at each corner.

Remove the drive shafts completely. Undo the torque tube plate where it meets the transmission and pull it to one side - resting on the cross beam.

Then get a another set of four tall axle stands and a decent large piece of sturdy wood to stick on top of them all. It needs to be big enough to support the gearbox on AND to slide it backwards to give you enough clearance to pull the torque tube back. Put the stands in place (ready to catch the lot. Get some friends to steady the piece of wood then put a large flat plate jack under the centre of the wood and jack it up to the centre of the transmission to take the load. Unbolt the hanger fastenings. Lower the lot onto the stands. You need to lower it just enough to pull it back out of the way of the torque tube.

Then it's just a matter of setting to removing all the bits and bobs that hold the bell housing and torque tube in place, removing the allen bolt that holds the damper to the spline and then hauling the tube back to give you room to get it all off.

Everywhere I read about the job insisted that you HAD to pull all the rear suspension parts to remove the tube to get room to work on the damper. This was also claimed by the Porsche specialist's mechanic too.

It's total BS. You can easily do the job just by pulling the tube about six inches back once the tranny is off. Took me about a week of working three hours or so a day. Mine was the early 85 model.

DO NOT buy secondhand dampers - unless you really want to do the job again within a year instead of the many years of life a new damper will give you.

BTW - when the damper lets go Porsche have thoughtfully put in two get you home lugs on the plate that will catch onto some stops when the rubber disintegrates. It's as noisy as hell but it WILL get you home without any damage providing you keep the power even on it and don't let it slap about. Mine went three hundred miles from home and got me back with no problems.

Oh, and the damper was a pattern part - 365 new and every bit as good as the Porsche item that was going for around 700 new + tax.
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1983 944 Lux (manual) 2.5 litre 8 valve na and no pas

1991 944 (automatic) 2.7 litre 16 valve na and pas

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Last edited by Dark Skies; 11-13-2007 at 11:29 AM..
Old 11-13-2007, 11:22 AM
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Thanks for all of the info and advice. What do you estimate the hours to be? I don't envisage doing all of this myself due to old age, etc, and the money I saved by doing the struts/brakes and a few other odds and ends will go towards labor. Do you mind if I share this post with my mechanic?
Old 11-13-2007, 02:06 PM
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i've heard shops i trust quote about 12 hours - it's apparantly quite a pain
Old 11-13-2007, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash968 View Post
i've heard shops i trust quote about 12 hours - it's apparantly quite a pain
It all depends on whether the guy is experienced in Porsches or not. I was quoted 2K for the entire job - they reckoned the damper alone would be 500. So assuming the rest is labour that'd be 1500 divided by about 45 per hour = 33 hours. I suppose a lot of the cost would be taken up by tax. We pay something like 17.50 for every 100 spent.

I did the job in roughly 21 hours - done very leisurely with plenty of tea and cigarette breaks as well as the odd blonde moment setback. When compared to the estimate done by a shop that did nothing but Porsches I either did rather splendidly or they were trying to have a laugh at my expense.

If I did the job again I could probably nail it in about three days. It's not that the job is particularly difficult - just that there is so many twiddly bits to get off before you can tackle the job proper. The exhaust obviously has to come off, there's all the bits and bobs you need to remove surrounding or attached to the transmission - cables, brackets etc. You need to remember to pull the sensors before getting the bell housing off - and they can be a pain all on their own. There are straps holding lines and cables to the torque tube itself and you WILL need a wire brush and WD40 and some decent six point sockets and spanners to tackle the many rusted up fasteners. The main hassle is the bulk of the work involves lying down,working in a confined space and having dirt and rust fall on your face.

I used an old shooting mat to lie on and put a strip light on a plank of wood with casters on to maximize visability. Getting the car as high up on stands as possible is definitely recommended because you're going to be under there for a while and smacking your head on the chassis gets old real quick. However, I saved myself 1635 so it was well worth it.

Trouble was ... a drunk driver ploughed into my car about four months later and wrote it off. That was two years back and I'm still waiting for his insurers to pay for my injuries and sundry expenses. Am I bitter? Of course not I'm sure he felt the risk to other people's property and lives seemed well worth it at the time. The fact that I hope his testicles rot off is entirely coincidental.
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1983 944 Lux (manual) 2.5 litre 8 valve na and no pas

1991 944 (automatic) 2.7 litre 16 valve na and pas

"I have only five words for you: From my cold, dead hands."

Last edited by Dark Skies; 11-13-2007 at 04:01 PM..
Old 11-13-2007, 03:51 PM
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Even 12hrs sounds like alot to me, They may want to charge you that but it wont take that long.
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93 968 (My summer car), 06 Jetta (My winter car),
79 924 (Wife's summer car), 02 C230k (Wife's winter car),
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:22 PM
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Well, I finally have the estimate from the mechanic. It is about $1100 for the damper, 11 hours for the labor, plus replacement of the crank sensors and bracket that got damaged when the flex plate shredded. I guess I will be keepin the car another year or two to get my money out of this repair. What a difficult car to repair in this general area. I am hoping to move up to a boxter in the future. Are they as difficult to reapir as this?

BTW, Dark skies, you should post this procedure to Clarkes and thanks for your help.
Old 12-07-2007, 03:43 PM
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Hey, I would like to get some advise when installing the damper plate. I got it all done but for some reason when I go tobolt the damper plate to the flywheel the bolts dont line up. The timing markings dont quite line up either. Can anyone tell me if the large wings on the danper plate are suppose to lie between the teeth on the flywheel. Or is it suppose to go to one side of the teeth. When I say teeth I mean the four triangular/pyramids that are molded in the flywheel. Thanks any feed back would help.
Old 04-10-2008, 07:48 AM
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I realize this doesn't help...

But I have to suggest that you do not finish this job. Convert the car to manual now and sell the new damper plate. It's straight up not worth the effort to have an auto as the finished product. Just my 2c.
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:33 PM
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:33 PM
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