1985.5 944 broke down(clutch?) need help

vajtai · 11-08-2007, 07:23 AM

I was driving to work yesterday morning and all was fine, when I heard quiet pop and then my car shuddered a little bit. It felt like I had a flat tire. Luckily I was at an intersection, so I pulled around the corner and coasted into a parking lot. I got out and checked my tires and they were fine, so I got back in and started my car. I heard a knocking sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. It would knock every couple of seconds or so. I put the car into gear but it won't move. When I step on the gas the knocking gets faster.

The pressure at the clutch pedal seems fine and I can put it in gear it just won't go anywhere. I never noticed any indication that there was anything wrong with clutch, so I am really curious as to what you guys think it might be. Also I checked under the car and I didn't see any fluids leaking anywhere.

Unfortunately my vehicle is about 20 miles from my home right now and I wont be able to tow it back until this weekend. I had to walk home yesterday

If you need any more info to help diagnose my problem feel free to ask, and I will do my best to answer.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Karl

2Tight · 11-08-2007, 07:34 AM

Sounds like you either had a CV fail or the mounting bolts have backed out at the transaxle. The worse is your ring and pinion have failed but that's less likely. If your rubber centered clutch and limp home tabs are sheared off you have plenty of warning and clunking first. I say CV.

Gary2397 · 11-08-2007, 01:54 PM

I agreed with 2Tight. One of your CV Joints probably failed. When was the last time you service your CV Joints? It supposed to get repack and inspect with good quality grease every 50K miles.
If you have clutch problem, you will have hard time shifting into any gear.

Also, what about the gear oil? It needs service every 30K. You might consider using Royal Purple 75W-90. These gear oil works alot better than most conventional gear oil.
I used it on my 1983 Porsche 944. It works great.

vajtai · 11-08-2007, 02:24 PM

Thanks for the help guys.

Do you think I should buy the boot kit, or the whole CV axle assembly. The sound seemed to be coming from the rear drivers side.

I will also change out the gear oil at the same time.

I bought the car about 3 months, and I will have to look at the service records and see when the last time the CV joints were serviced. I currently have 149,000 mi on the car.

2Tight · 11-08-2007, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vajtai

Thanks for the help guys.

Do you think I should buy the boot kit, or the whole CV axle assembly. The sound seemed to be coming from the rear drivers side.

I will also change out the gear oil at the same time.

I bought the car about 3 months, and I will have to look at the service records and see when the last time the CV joints were serviced. I currently have 149,000 mi on the car.

It's easiest to just buy a Lifetime Warranty complete axle assembly for $67 at Kragen or Autozone. They don't sell the axles for my 951 so I buy the NA axles and swap the new CV's onto the 951 axle.

adrian1 · 11-08-2007, 05:50 PM

Is the royal purple 75w-90 still fine for LSD 951 transmissions?

Gary2397 · 11-09-2007, 02:19 PM

To Adrian1,
I am not quite sure, you may want to check with customer services at
www.RoyalPurle.Com to be safe. They might have the answer for you.

vajtai · 11-09-2007, 04:39 PM

I was looking on Schucks website and found the CV Drive axle assembly(remanufactured) by Cardone. The part number at schucks is #607077. Is the correct part?

Also, in replacing the complete axle assembly is this basically just a bolt on part?

I've never replaced a CV drive axle before and it seems a little intimidating.

2Tight · 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vajtai

I was looking on Schucks website and found the CV Drive axle assembly(remanufactured) by Cardone. The part number at schucks is #607077. Is the correct part?

Also, in replacing the complete axle assembly is this basically just a bolt on part?

I've never replaced a CV drive axle before and it seems a little intimidating.

That's the same Cardone Kragen sells also: http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=607077&PartType=945&PTSet=A

Installation couldn't be much easier. I can do both sides in 1/2 hour once the rear of the car is jacked up. There are 6 - 8mm cheese head bolts w/3 retainer plates per CV. Be very careful in removing the cheesehead bolts; clean the sockets in the bolt head first and make sure the tool is set all the way down. They are a pain to remove if you strip one. Both ends of the axle are the same. It's a good idea to clean out the thread bores with solvent and I always use Loctite blue on the clean bolts for re-installation. If the bolts back out it's because they weren't tightened enough or the threads were greasy. Did you check to see which axle is making the noise? It's probably the drivers side.

vajtai · 07:50 PM

Sounds simple enough.

I don't believe I have anything to remove the cheesehead bolts in my tool box. What tool will I need?

And yes, it is the drivers side that is making the noise. I plan on replacing both sides.

Thanks again for all your help!!

vajtai · 09:54 AM

Well my CV axle assembly finally came in. I will be heading down to the auto parts store in a few minutes to pick it up. I started my car yesterday and saw that it was the right(passenger) side CV axle that was spinning freely. When I was inside the car it sounded like it was coming from the drivers side. I'm glad I got under the car and checked before I started taking anything apart.

Before I tackle this I was wondering, are there any tricks/tips to removing the axle once it is unbolted, or will it come out freely?

Also I picked up a 6-8-10-12mm 12pt tool set for the cheesehead bolts. Are there any other tools that I will need to complete the job that I can pick up at the auto parts store while I am there?

I don't have a Haynes manual for this vehicle yet, but I will also be picking that up if they have one available.

Also, when I jack up the car do I need to place a jack stand on the both sides of the vehicle, or can I just jack up the car and place one on the side of the car that I am working on?

vajtai · 04:07 PM

Well, the old axle came off really easy. Unfortunately it came off so easy because I was missing 5-1/2 bolts and 3 brackets that the bolts go through on the joint connected to the wheel

I tried calling around, but no shops that are open seem to carry the bolts. I guess I will order them from Pelican w/2nd day shipping, so I can have them by Wednesday.

I didn't see anywhere that I could order the brackets. Are they really that necessary?

Also both ends of the assembly appear to be the same. Is this correct?

I guess that pop that I heard while I was driving was my one remaining bolt letting go.

2Tight · 11-18-2007, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vajtai

Well, the old axle came off really easy. Unfortunately it came off so easy because I was missing 5-1/2 bolts and 3 brackets that the bolts go through on the joint connected to the wheel

I tried calling around, but no shops that are open seem to carry the bolts. I guess I will order them from Pelican w/2nd day shipping, so I can have them by Wednesday.

I didn't see anywhere that I could order the brackets. Are they really that necessary?

Also both ends of the assembly appear to be the same. Is this correct?

I guess that pop that I heard while I was driving was my one remaining bolt letting go.

Glad to hear you confirmed the problem. You really should try and buy the correct brackets for the bolts. If you can't find the bracket locally try a VW dealer. Show them an old one and they will have it. If you can't find them at least use a lock washer under the head. Remember to clean the threads in the hubs and use Loctite blue. You can also use an 8mm x 50 allen head bolts if you can find the right length.

vajtai · 11-18-2007, 08:53 AM

Thanks for the info on the brackets. There is a VW and also an Audi dealer by my work. I will stop by Monday and see if they have the brackets in stock. If not I will call the Tacoma shops.

I picked up some Loctite Blue yesterday. Can I use WD-40 to clean out the thread bores?

Also, where the axle engages inside the hub, how much of the old grease do I need to clean out? As much as possible or literally all of it.

Last question(I think). When packing the new axle with grease is there anything specific that I need to do, or do I just put the whole package of grease in there and slide the boot back and forth a few times to work it in?

Or do I put the package of new grease on the transmission side, as there is already a little grease inside the CV axle itself?

If all goes well, hopefully my next post will be to confirm that I am back on the road.

Thanks again for all of your help. I truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. You've been a tremendous help!!!

Its times like these that I am so glad that Al Gore invented the internet

2Tight · 11-18-2007, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vajtai

...Also, where the axle engages inside the hub, how much of the old grease do I need to clean out? As much as possible or literally all of it.

Get as much old grease out as you can. Use brake cleaner to clean the threaded holes.

Quote:

Last question(I think). When packing the new axle with grease is there anything specific that I need to do, or do I just put the whole package of grease in there and slide the boot back and forth a few times to work it in?

Get as much of the packaged lube into the working areas of the CV. Roll back the CV boot, flex the CV, and generally try to get the grease to flow into all the inner bearing areas. Both CV's get greased the same. There's no such thing as too much CV lube unless you try to fill the rubber boot or something.

Quote:

Its times like these that I am so glad that Al Gore invented the internet

Yeah but Al stole the whole idea from me

marky522 · 11-18-2007, 10:52 AM

Porsche dealer can get them next day for just a few $$$, dont just use washers, get the proper plates.

Mark

vajtai · 11-18-2007, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marky522

Porsche dealer can get them next day for just a few $$$, dont just use washers, get the proper plates.

Mark

Thanks, but I already ordered them from Pelican yesterday. I was going to replace both rear CV's, but I am only doing the passenger side right now. I will replace the other rear CV soon and when I do I will check with the porsche dealer in Tacoma and see how much they will charge me for new bolts.

EMBPilot · EMBPilot's Garage

Karl,
if your doing CV work these threads may be of some info. CV was one of the first projects on my car. take your time, torque right, its not an expensive job, just messy

I got initial info here from this thread...

Repacking CV Joints

I got jammed up and started this other thread... was able to solve the hang up.

cant get the CV joint off the Axle!!

good luck let us know how you make out.

vajtai · 11-21-2007, 07:25 PM

Well, there's good news and some bad.

The good news is that I now have all the parts I need to finish the job and I've cleaned everything out and am ready to install the new CV axle.

The bad news is that when I cleaned out the old grease on the wheel side I noticed that four of the old bolts actually broke off inside the hub. All four bolts appear to have broken clean and flush with the hub.

Whats the best way to go about trying to get the bolts out?

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

Ouch! The only way I know how is a drill and ezout. You may try a left handed bit if you have one so it trys to back the bolt out while you are drilling on it. I'm thinking those are pretty hard bolts though. Good luck.