Replacing front struts..... myself
 

I have all the components to rebuild my front struts on my '84 944.
I have a very detailed dvd of the procedure step by step. This will
be my first attempt. Any advise or tips from anyone who has done
the job before.
Thanks

Struts on these cars are very straight forward.

I would loosen the top nut before you jack the car up, that way you dont need spring compressors. Other than that its a quick job.

I did mine and it is fairly straight forward, I brought my whole strut assembly in to my mechanic and had him deal with the spring compressor fun. From what I have read you really dont want one of those cheap spring compressors to fail or slip off and send the spring flying. For a half hour labour charge I knew that it was done right and safely.

be sure to mark the eccentric bolts before disassembly so you can get the alignment "in the ball park", get an alignment a week or so after to ensure that the suspension has settled.

Rent a good spring compressor. Then it's a safe and quick job. Do one side at a time so if you get confused you can look at the other side to see how it's supposed to be.
Good luck.
Jon

Since you have an early car you have it easy. You don't even have to remove the struts from the car, no spring compressor required, and your alignment isn't effected. Remove the strut shaft nut while the car is on the ground. Jack up the front, place on stands, remove wheels, disconnect the sway and drop links from the arm on both sides, press down on control arm with a leveraged bar and swing the strut outward to clear the upper mount and fender, remove the spring while still pushing down on the arm. Once the spring is off you can back off the top cap on the strut tube and remove the old insert. I always remove that nasty oil installed in the bottom of the tube and use new oil. Some people even make it easier by removing the top strut mount and dropping everything through the fender. I've always used the method I described for early cars. Last time I did both fronts in well under an hour.

Since I am entitled to my opinion:

That procedure is insane. You should never use the weight of the car as the "spring compressor".:eek: Use the correct tools for the job and the correct procedure according to the Factory Service Manual. An alignment will still have to be done regardless of the R&R method used.

Again, my opinion. Do what you want.

The link below my signature contains HD color pictures and comments as to R&R'ing front struts on a 924S. Same procedure as your '84 944.

I'm sorry you feel that way and you are entitled to your opinion. What you are saying is just plain untrue though. There is nothing insane or unsafe about it. The spring is compressed still when the strut shaft nut is removed. As the car is raised the the compression is slowly removed from the spring and it is loose on it's perch. The reason that the car does not have to be re-aligned is the lower bolts, eccentric included are never loosened. If you think using a spring compressor in the hands of a DIY garage mechanic is safer then you need to reevaluate your statement. Do you have any idea how many many people do it this way? There is absolutely no reason to remove the strut if your early car takes inserts. Unless you have replaced them yourself by this method your opinion is actually pretty comical to those of us that have done it several times and wish we had known about before going through your method the first few times. Don't knock what you haven't tried as I was told in the oil viscosity thread.

BTW: Nice write-up on your struts. I see why you removed everything so you could paint and install new strut towers.

Could you please explain how you formed this opinion? Whats the difference between using the car as your spring compressor or buying one? Ive done every suspension Ive ever replaced this way. I have a pair of spring compressors if I ever need them, but they just collect dust in the toolbox. I have a couple frieds that are techs at local shops, they use this method, its just that they never tell anyone because if something did happen and sopmeone said "so and so is an ASE tech and he said I could do this" they would probably sue them.

Was that rhetorical?
 

At first I wasn't going to reply, except I needed to point out that you already answered the above question below.

That being said, spring compressors positively restrain the springs - they come with directions for proper use. Unloading the springs using the car's weight will cause unexpected results if something were to hang up due to corrosion or other interference. Reloading the springs using the car's weight will have equally unexpected results if components are not perfectly lined up and may cause damage to the new part you are trying to replace the defective part with in the first place...

...and because the Factory Service Manual says so...

The first time I replaced the struts on my 924 I noticed that the springs were completely unloaded when I jacked the car up so I dont really see how there is any danger in simply removing the top nut that doesnt have any pressure on it from the springs.

Since the subject presents itself, I recently installed Koni's on my 85.5 944 using a spring compressor. All went well until the alignment tech said the springs were twisting in the spring seat. When I turned the steering wheel the springs would move in the seats and make a clung type of noise, as the bearing plate was hanging up and not allowing the upper spring seat to twist with the strut. When I reassembled I tightened the strut nut as directed to so-many ft-lbs. But the strut bearing plate could have also been replaced, apparently.

My temporary solution was to back off the strut nut a bit and install a second lock-nut to keep it from working free. I didn't trust the old nylon core original nut and the new Koni's came with a nut and lockwasher instead of the nylon do-dad.

I am still not sure what I did wrong to make the springs twist. Did I overtighten the strut nut or is replacing the bearing plate essential or is there something else like a spacer I missed?

Anyway, all is still OK with he lock-nut deal!

There is no danger, that's what I've been trying to get onZedge to understand. You do not need a spring compressor to do 944 struts especially if you disconnect the drop links at the arms. It's a hell of a lot safer than using a spring compressor with the strut mounted in a vise. I use my floor jack to control spring placement for reassembly. I have never had a spring installed wrong or spin yet using this method. I have seen people nearly lose a finger or eye using a spring compressor though. The only time this method might not work is if you were using full length #400 springs.

He is free to do his any way he wants but stop saying our method is unsafe or not by the book; the FSM does all sorts of things the hard way and we improve upon them all the time.

I am definately going to try the non-compressor method next time. Seems easier than gator wrestling a strut, especially if you don't have a vise.

What springs are you using? OEM or aftermarket?

Wait... I need to make more popcorn...
 

Hmm. Did somebody repeal the First Amendment when I wasn't looking?

I'll call your bluff - cite some examples. (please remember that "improve upon" and "risky shortcuts" are two completely different concepts)

droplinks
 

What do you mean by "loosening the drop links at the arm" Do you mean
the the cam bolt and bolt beneath that?
Thanks

The only problem you might run into is that the insert retaining cap might be frozen. Mine was when I did mine. After much WD40, wrestling, pounding, fuming, ect. I eventually gave up and cut them off. Luckily the Bilstein inserts I got come with their own special retaining cap, so it didn't matter.

My strut spring compressor has locking pins that physically prevent the spring from slipping off the jaws in any way. But the shortcut mentioned sounds like a great idea...unless you have to cut the caps off.

Good luck. :cool:

It means to disconnect the droplink (connector) between the sway bar and the control arm at the control arm. This allows the control to swing freely when you push down on it with your foot or a lever to remove the spring. Do not loosen or remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle unless you are removing the whole strut for replacement, painting, etc. It's really quite easy.

I think the recent write up in Nine magazine on how to change the torsion bars is a good candidate. Instructing you to drill a 3 inch hole in the rear fender seems like an "improved" method :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

What ever method you use to work on your car please understand the risks and take safety seriously.

Fairly simple job. The are enough posts and information to help you. Hardest job is removing the springs. There are a number of options as many have posted. I used my local high school auto shop to remove and install my springs. Assembly is straight forward as well.


Good luck.

I think I owe you an apology and I didn't intend to come across like it did. Yes you are entitled to your opinion like all of us. I don't want to argue with you because that's something old men like me try to avoid.

As far as shortcuts or improvements over the FSM I can only add a few that I'm hoping you won't find insane or dangerous. The FSM has you drop the cross member and disconnect the steering knuckle to change motor mounts; it's easier and faster to loosen the X-member, raise the engine some, and do one side at a time to keep the engine from shifting side to side similar to Clarks method. Another is changing a broken door handle from the outside by removing the roll pin on the drop piece. I'm no genius but if someone shows me a better method to do something I'm willing to at least listen and judge for myself.

Again my apologies if I came across other than just trying to give the poster another option used by countless people. I had no call to question your comments or reasoning and should have just let them go.

Peace

No apology required. I think we old men got caught up in arguing opinions instead of offering advice to the person who started this thread in the first place.

I gave up and took mine to a shop. I installed the rear shocks (Bilstein) myself, but the struts proved to be an issue. For one, that top locknut is a *****. Two, who has a spanner wrench? Three, the spring is a crazy issue. And four, I wanted the alignment done at the same time.

If you ever try it again it really helps to use an impact wrench for that top nut while the car is on the ground; it not that tight but this helps to keep the shaft from turning. For that threaded collar a standard pipe wrench works well or just use a long punch and a hammer on the spanner holes to loosen it. What was the 'crazy issue' with the springs? Sorry you had so many problems with it. If Roseville wasn't so far I could have given you a hand, I'm in Elk Grove.

I used an impact wrench also. I used a pipe wrench to open the cartridge. I don't want to bring up old stuff here but, to me, it it much easier to totally remove the strut to work on than leaving it on the car. I took my strut assemblies to my nieghborhood High School auto shop to get the springs removed. They had a very nice spring compressor device that was sturdy and safe.

After cleaning and painting the struts, I went back to reassemble them.

An impact wrench can damage the strut. I think the OEM boge stuff is like bilstein and has a hole for an allen wrench at the top. That plus a 22mm offset box wrench works well. For Koni shocks you need a 10 or 11mm wrench and the 22mm offset box wrench. For the Konis though Id suggest using a flare nut wrench as the nuts on the top of the shaft are easilly rounded. :cool:

I was talking about 'removing' the nut and it doesn't matter since you are changing out the strut. I've used an impact several times for reassembly but only on the lowest setting that turns the locknut until the car is back on the ground. I torque them with a wrench after I've bounced the car several times. I don't think I've ever damaged one yet.

I know you can buy a special tool, I believe for about $20 that is designed to remove the top nut of the strut. Rather than spending the money on the tool, I did some research and found that an impact wrench can essentially do the same thing in most cases. The pipe wrench was suggested by the auto shop teacher. Actually, I used 2 of them One to hold the cartridge, the other to loosen the cap.

It's funny but I did the same thing 2Tight did to tighten the nut. I didn't use security nuts but full nuts and lock washers. I guess great minds think alike........maybe not.