Removing Speed, Reference sensors
 

I'm into my clutch job now almost 11 hours. About 3 of those are fighting the damn sensors! I've searched and have a better idea now on how to remove them, but wanted to hear of somebody elses experience first.
I'm a 914 guy at heart and was just coming around to accepting my 944. This sure isn't helping.

yup those are a bear to get out. they tend to swell up after several years of use. the first time i tried it i broke one. seems that prying it with a screwdriver is a bad idea. i broke the top part clean off. so i had to dig out the rest. a big chunk fell down inside. luckily i could see it and pulled it out with a small magnet. they will come out but with lots of patients. you pull hard and twist back and forth. i used a set of really long needle nosed pliers that had about a 45 degree curve at the end.

i hope this helped.

Yeah I used some needle nose pliers too. I bought a long set from harbor freight for $5 bucks. I should of sprung for the extra, extra long pliers. I am too cheap though. After tonight it looks like I may have to.
I'd call you, but it's 1:00 am now. thanks
I've got the worst sore throat right now and can't sleep.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/smi10.gif

Spray it with PB blaster / WD-40 and wiggle back and forth while pulling up.

It took me 2 weeks in the winter to get them out. I would kneel on the engine while trying to do this. I did get them out without breaking them.

Good luck,
Speedy:)

I would do this plus let them soak overnight. The WD-40 will work really well after you give it some time.

Cool, I'll try that. I need them out quick though, since I'm going to San Diego here in a few days.
I bought a carpet kit and a whole bunch of other parts from the wrecking yard on their half price day. I plan on installing those as well. Can you believe I scored a set of Yellow Koni's for 8 bucks!

Speedo959,
Hope you have removed the sensors by now. If not make sure you have a very good set of hex metric. Sharp edges to get the pan head screws out.
When you install, set the sensor gap before you attach the drive tube-more room. I used the epoxy/flat washer method on end of sensor and had no problems. Make sure the flywheel pins point down on assembly.
Pelican parts diagram:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1197302789.jpg

John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

I thought that if I didn't mess with the sensor bracket the adjustment would be good. I have to epoxy on washers even though I am using the same sensors? Also the flywheel pin you are refering to, is this something I will notice after I remove the bellhousing. Something obvious?
I lost my manual so my main reference is Clarks garage.
Thanks

as long as the bracket didn't budge and your using the same sensors again, you shouldn't need to adjust spacing. otherwise, just to be safe, you might want to check it out anyway. you wouldn't want to mess one of the sensors up. personally, for my own car, as long as i was sure the bracket didn't move, i'd just throw them back in. also, if you're reusing the same sensors, don't put too much glue on the washer so you can get them off after adjustments.

Well good news, I got the sensors out. Seems that liquid wrench and pushing the sensors up and down loosened them up to free them. Happy about that, but I still can't get the bellhousing off. It seems to be the tightest around the sensor bracket. I'm thinking that I may have to remove that as well. Am I wrong? I can't seem to find anything externally, it seems to be something hanging up internal. I'm feeling like an idiot here. LOLhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1197321223.jpg Would this possibly be what's hanging up?
Thanks again guys SmileWavy

ground straps?

If you have the 4 large bolts off the bell housing, and it still seems to pivot by the sensor housing you may have to remove it. On my '88 the sensor housing has three sensors together. #24 is the timimg mark sensor.
I had to take the housing off. This is where you need a very sharp hex. From below for the drivers side pan bolt I used 2 feet of extensions and a 3/8" swivel universal at the end then socket hex to get the pan head bolt off. The passenger side bolt can be removed with a swivel head ratchet and hex socket from the top. Warning, you do not want to round the inside of the pan head bolts.

I judged the thickness of the washer with a spark plug feeler guage-I didn't have a micrometer and as stated, just a drop of epoxy mixed well. Why? You don"t want the washer to fall off in the bell housing and have to start all over.

Flywheel pins extend about 1/2 inch. Will be seen after bell housing is off.
Rotate crankshaft until pins are at bottom.
Good luck-wear a painters mask to avoid sucking firewall fiber.

John_AZ

Did you remove the clutch fork yet? The part the slave cylinder pushes on when you press your pedal? Just a thought...

For future people, foamy orange engine degreaser works best for the senors. Only takes 10 minutes or so.

Thanks for the input guys. I got it off finally after gently prying. Everything was disconnected per Clarks garage. I guess it was maybe hanging up on a dowel? Who knows, but it's off and that's where I'm quiting for the next few days. I really appreciate everybodys help.

Call me crazy, but I may be picking up an 87 with a bad clutch. LOL Seems everybody knows about the dreaded clutch job and would rather dump them cheap.

Speedo959

Good news to hear its apart. Another suggestion. Take the new clutch pieces to a shop and have them balance the bundle including the starter gear. You will be disappointed when finished and find you have a vibration at 2800 to 3300 rpm.
Again, good luck.

John_AZ

I doubt if you ever will do this gawd awful job again but 'just in case' you do; it's easy to cut away the webbing material on the bellhousing between the openings for the sensors and the mounting surface with the block. That way if you have to do a clutch job again you don't need to remove the sensors or the bracket. It doesn't weaken the bellhousing and has been done by quite a few people, many with high output engines.

John that sounds like a good idea, I'll have to look into that.

2Tight that suggestion is something I will definately do. If it were not for the sensor problem this job would of went pretty smoothly.

I've done clutch jobs on 4 wheel drives with bulky transfer cases that were easier. If I had known it was going to be such a bear I would of just dropped the engine and fixed some oil leaks. Probably would of been easier in the long run. Heck I may still do that anyways.