Thermostat Temp, antifreeze, and coolant additive Questions!

hermesbooking · 01-20-2008, 08:04 PM

I gotta change my lower radiator hose in the next couple of weeks and was going to change the thermostat as well, figured it would be worth the 20.00 bucks to fix all at once. I don't know what I currently have in there, but was looking to get the 160 vs the 180. Anyone change to the lower temp? I live in West Texas so the outside temp thing is not a problem, just looking to keep it a little cooler in the summer time. On the same subject suggestions on Antifreeze? I have seen that Quaker State Q cooler additive to halp the engine run cooler, has anyone put this in their car? Thanks

procon · 01-21-2008, 02:50 AM

If you deiced to change out the thermostat for the lower temp one, be sure to change the fan temp switch to the lower temp as well.
I run "water wetter" in my 924 & it does help.

hermesbooking · 01-21-2008, 06:46 AM

I did not even think about that! I will need to look at everything, good point!

HondaDustR · 01-21-2008, 07:04 AM

Prestone Dexcool works really well, and I second the water whetter. It's some good stuff. You should also use a good cooling system flush while you've got it apart.
Be sure to have a good set of angled snap ring pliers to get that fiendish snap ring that holds the thermostat in place (don't cheap out on this part or it'll be a dark day...it's already bad enough...).
You may want to get a new inner seal for the thermostat (inside the water pump, not the rubber ring around the rim of the thermostat) in case the one that's in there is deteriorated (also a horrible experience to remove).

bholmes · bholmes's Garage

when it comes to the thermostat i say just pull the water pump, it's easier that way in my opinion! I just did the waterpump, thermostat, thermostatic fan switch and lower hose all at once. A thing to note about the flush, it's debateable, but some say use a bit of dish washer detergent. They say the flush can be too harsh on some of the aged hoses. SO if your hoses are 100% OK then you should be fine. I used a bit of dish detergent and still had a few leaks come as a result of it. Also I agree with HondaDustR Preston Dexcool (the red stuff) is good. You want a phostphate free anti freeze, this is less corosive on aluminum engines. have fun!

HondaDustR · 01-21-2008, 06:43 PM

Not only is Dexcool phosphate free, but is also silicate free as well.

I don't know about you, but I'd still choose to wrestle with the snap ring any day instead of practically stripping the front of the engine bare to remove the water pump, and all the stuff that goes with it, including crawling under to remove the starter, install flywheel lock, remove crank bolt, pull crank pulleys off, scrape old gastet off once water pump is removed, retensioning balance and cam belts, and it goes on and on...
But it would be stupid as hell to not replace the thermostat while doing a water pump job, unless maybe you just replaced it yesterday or something! It takes about 20 seconds with the water pump off.

John_AZ · 01-23-2008, 12:15 PM

The part that HondaDustR referred to is part #2-a tstat sealing ring.

I run a 75C/167F 2-prong fan switch with a 80C/176F thermostat in AZ
Both cars stay at 1/4 to 1/2 stop & go.

bholmes is correct on the flush thing. If you use a Prestone type HD-heavy duty flush, be prepared to have leaks. I had to drain the antifreeze and clean corrosion and clacium type deposits from all WP and hose outlets with a mini steel brush powered tool. I was very lucky that the plastic to metal seam on the radiatior only had a seeping drip and it sealed itself in a couple of days.

The PO's did not replace the tstat spacer in either car and one did not have the gasket around the tstat. It made a rattling sound.

Another item to consider is the heater control valve $20 and small "J" hose $8.
Check to see if yours has a white leaky deposit.

John_AZ