There you see larsz! But did you clean the poles, clamps and "lubricated" them with silicone grease or vaseline before reconnecting them? It is absolutely vital for a good function all the time.
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Lapponia

There you see larsz! But did you clean the poles, clamps etc and "lubricated" them with silicone grease or vaseline before reconnecting? It is absolutely vital for a good function of a car´s electrical system. Also, check if rain or washing water is running down from windscreen onto the battery positive pole. There should be a protective lid over it. Othervise water gets into the connection and corrosion occur within a short time.
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Lapponia

io
I did not put the battery back in yet but will do all those preventative tips that you reccomended though. I will post again on the results. Thanks again for your advice. Much appreciated & the car too!

They make a real inexpensive red spray at the auto parts for corrosion or you should use dielectric grease. Glad you found the problem. Probably not a bad idea to check for battery drain, but hopefully there won't be a problem there.

There was battery drain off the scale. I disconnected the fuse #7 for the radio /cd unit & it came down to half the scale reading. It had a bigger red fuse in there instead of a white stock fuse. This all was done by the previous owner. I am thinking of running the aftermarket JVC stereo direct to battery instead. It seems to be wired to 12volts instead of switched from the ignition key circuit. Is there a factory alarm wired to the radio circuit? There was also clicking like a relay was being latched on when the battery was connected. You were right on about the cables not the DME. I think I have some of that electrical spray for the terminals. Thanks for your great advise Razorback! f

Update on how the car ran. I took it down to get the car aligned & it ran great there & even better after the alignment. No electrical problems or non start so far.

basically all radios have 3 connections. Dont run directly to your battery. Run it to the fuse panel and 12v switched. Remember, your radio has a clock & station memory so it is going to draw some power when not on, should be very, very small though.

Ground
12v+ Constant (usually red)
12v+ Switched (usually yellow - connect to a wire that only turns on when the key turns on)

other then speakers that's really all there is to any radio setup. You may also need to connect the ant. power for the antenna amplifier. There are more wires you can connect like the illumination, but most dont (I never have with any install), amp, pre-amp out, etc.

let me know if you need help in this area.

Just glad you have it fixed larsz. I would also recommend going through a fused power source and hook it up as the manufacturer recommends. There are many folks here that know the stereo stuff better than I do, so hopefully hpservertech's advice on the stereo will help you connect it properly. Doing it properly is important.

do the windows, horn, and radio work?

The horn does not work but the windows & radio both do. I just checked the power leads & they are both unswitched 12 volts. I am trying to find the switched wire from the ignition key. The Momo hub does not seem to have any wire connections to the horn button. It has both the stock factory horns & some air horns with a compressor but not hooked up.