WYAIT cylinder head

[rmcdonnell]

Yes, I've had a quick search on the topic. I was surprised there wasn't a definitive WYAIT (while you are in there) on the topic.

I've got a duff valve, probably an inlet valve, as on my 2.7, it's a bit bigger, and loads more expensive to replace, so SODs law dictates this will have failed. So my cylinder head is coming off.

So the WYAIT items are:

New distributor rotor. (Old one jammed on)
Fresh distributor cap. (Old one is old)
New timing belt.
New balance belt.
A good look at the pulleys, maybe replace any that don't spin nicely.
A head gasket kit.
Get the injectors ultra-sonically cleaned.
Check the AFM
New oil
New oil filter.
Hopefully one new valve.
Check the head studs.
Check the AOS.
Vacuum lines and hoses exposed to the light of day, replace if any sign of perishing.
Check the cylinder bores, clean the pistons, keep the crap out of the bores.
Plugs

Things to clean and polish are;
The exhaust manifold.
The intake manifold,
The AFM, maybe gentle port matching
The cam housing
The cylinder head, more port matching
The block mating surface.
Regrind the valves.
Replace the valve guides?
Replace the valve seals.
Check the valve springs, or replace.?

So what else do you reckon is important to think about or check and I've missed off the list...?

Anything else that's easiest to check now with half the motor removed?

cheers
Rissole :drink

[John_AZ]

Instead of "check the AOS", it should be replace the AOS seals.

Check the head to make sure you can still machine the surface:



Rebuild the throttle body with a $22 kit from Home

Replace the ICV/ISV rubber mounts.

Replace the heater control valve if it is dripping on the clutch or sensors.

Replace short heater hoses.

Reseal the oil cooler housing and OPRV change the 2 "O" rings on the 1 piece.

Check the sensor gap and put antiseize on the sensors IF you can get them out.

Only use CRC Throttle body and fuel injection cleaner----NEVER carburator cleaner.

Clean all contacts with a very good electronic connector cleaner.

Boy, this is very familiar...........

AOS part #

What type of valve stem seals do you want to use?

Teflon, rubber, sponge or none at all?

What is the average shop charge to do the head?

A digital torque wrench works the best.

Wake up the cam housing bolts
Allen Head and Cheesehead Bolt Removal

Reuse the head washers----they must not move when being torqued--scuff the bottom and mark each one to make sure it does not move.

Learn a chant----OOOOOoooooooMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Learn how to bleed the cooling system.

enough?

EDIT: missed a BIG one.
Check the lifters, aka Cam followers for softness. Replace if soft. Keep lifters in same bores (per PORSCHE).
Store the lifters in oil with the small hole UP. Fill the lifter with oil with a needle syringe.

Second edit:

If the cylinder bores look good, DO NOT remove the top carbon cylinder ridge--it helps compression on worn rings.

Oil the head bolts threads with a thin layer only.

New nuts are required.

Do not drop the lifters when you pick up the cam housing. Put a piece of thin steel under the cam housing to keep the lifters in the same bores.

Do not scratch the engine or other mating parts. Take the 4 hours and do it right. Clean, clean clean. Acetone and gentle scraping. 3M does make a pad to try.

Read the other link I included earlier.



Great thread.

John

[John_AZ]

Rissole,

FYI, your post is only the "trial",

When you do the work many pictures are required to make the "official" definitive WYAIT head DIY for the 2.7 engine.

GL on the work

John