I now have good steady fuel pressure!
There was some rusty sludge in the bottom of the tank. I could not see it from the top but sure enough it was in there.

Now the bad news. It starts and idles but thats about it (at least it doesnt die). It wont rev, just stumbles if I give it gas. So more trouble shooting.

I guess now I'll start over. How sensative is the fuel distributor? Should I adjust it 1/4 turns 1/2 turns or is that too much?

The fuel distributor is much more sensitive than that. Final tuning, a change of 2-5 degrees will make a difference.

Yes, sounds like you need to start over. I'd start with checking ignition timing, then idle speed (with the throttle bypass screw, not the throttle stop) and mixture. EZ enough to set the idle mixture, once the others are set; turn rich and lean until the idle starts to drop off, making note of each position, then set it to dead-nuts in the middle between the two, and 5 degrees rich (CW) from that. You should have pretty decent running with that setting.

Ok set timing to -5 deg. Set Idle to 850-900 rpm.

Tried setting mixture but I'm not sure if I am in the right spot. By 'turn rich' should I start from full CW position, then lean (CCW)?

It seems to Idle good but when I give it gas it sputters & boggs with an occasional little backfire. I am wondering if it could be the vacuum advance or something else.

Just start from where you already are with the mixture, and adjust from there.

Ok I am lost now I think?

Between the throttle bypass screw and the mixture on the fuel ditributor I was able to get it to run ok. It would not rev above 4000 though, and after I shut it down for a while it didnt even run that good any more.

Is there a good starting position for the bypass scew? I played around a bit with it and found that I could screw it in and out and then adjust the fuel distributor to bring it back to a good idle. So I am not sure it is any where close to where it should be (as with everything else on the car).

Could the WUR be leaking a small amount of fuel so that I cant get it leaned out? I was thinking of putting the gauge back on and useing the valve to close off the line to simulate that the WUR is closed.

Am I missing something here? The car does have an air pump if that changes anything.

Thanks Dave

Update:

Well I had her running pretty good. I actually went around the block a few times. :)
Started her up the next day and she idled fine but that was it. I didnt let it warm up but suspect that after a while it would run fine again. I'll do this to make sure.

So does anyone have a good WUR for cheap?

Thanks, Dave

DMRK,
Headlight squirters and BLACK back seats. Cool......
What's your paint code say in the drivers side door jam?