No start problem, possible battery?
 

ok, i just got done with replacing the cam cover gasket. I also replaced the battery harness, the one that goes to the starter. and rebuilt injectors. well after putting everything back together, and went to autozone to charge my battery. they tested it and said it was good. waited, then went home put it in and the running lights came on. well went to start it and it just clicked very fast 3 times, and went dead. so waited a little bit tried again, and the door alarm was acting like a animal gasping for air. then the battery light came on.
well i'm wondering if it is in fact the battery and what could cause it to loose that sort of charge that quick, as they said it was good. and what could cause the clicking sound. as i'm very confused..:(

What does your volt meter say? If you have 14 or so volts, then it's probably not the battery. Also check your voltage at the starter on the large post. Should have the same as the battery. If not, one of the battery cables not making good contact somewhere. Put an ohm meter between the negative battery post and the engine...ohms should be close to 0. If not, clean and check grounds and make sure the ground wire on the back of the engine is connected and the nut is tightened.

when i got the battery charged it was at 12 and a third volts. i will take a look today.
Thanks Tom.

Twelve should start it fine. Check for twelve at the starter....if you have 12V there, it should start providing you have a good ground.

You say you replaced the harness going to the starter and now you're having starter problems. Assuming it used to start before you did the work, the cabling is your most likely culprit. Cleanup both ends of EACH battery cable and make sure you have good clean tight connections to your battery. Double/triple check your wiring hookup of the new cabling (the one you just replaced and just cleaned up plus any other cables you replaced/fiddled with).

Make sure the connection of the little wire on the starter (from the started to your ignition switch) is clean and tight.

jmd_forest

the reason why i replaced the cable. :rolleyes:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205189135.jpg

ok as it looks the small nut moves but doesn't tighten. not norm.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205192826.jpg

checked the volts 12.36 at battery. 12.36 at starter. ohms are like .4 i'm really confused. i'm only 15 i thought it would be simpler..lol i think i'm gonna get the battery charged again. but i'll check the volts after. the battery still has 1 more year on warrentie.

ohms are 0.4 on what scale?

i think it was 200 scale. i'm really thinking it's the battery though. is there anything else i could do before i get a new battery; or tests?

Did it start before you replaced the wiring with the same battery?

yes it did. when i arrived to buy it the PO jumped it. so i heard it run. when i got it home it ran for alittle awhile. then parked it. i have finally had time and $ to put into and this arouse. i think i'm gonna go with a battery and if a new one doesn't work. i will ask you guys on this awsome forum. :) Thanks!!

Ok. Keep us updated with the status.

You know what? Just for fun, disable the factory alarm and see if it will start. There is a write up on Clarks garage on how to do this (www.clarks-garage.com)

Two problems....

1: The small nut has to tighten....replace the nut. The way this works is the small wire receives 12V from the switch key to engage the power from the big post. If you have a poor connection on the small wire, then the solenoid will not work.

2: If you have .4 ohms, then you need to clean your ground cable both at the battery and at the back of the engine...value should be zero or very very close to it.

You can use a remote starter switch (if you have one) and hook between the small post and the large post. If you have proper voltage and ground when you push the button the starter will turn. If you don't have a remote starter switch (I don't have one either), then use two 4 foot wires with alligator clips on each end and hook one to the big post and the other to the small post. Move out from under the car then touch the two wires together. The starter should turn.

I'd use at least 10 gauge wire if you want to jump it yourself.. dont use your regular small electronics wires with alligator clips... may sound obvious to say, but just for sake of clarification.

ok i'll try that.
any tips on how to remove the little nut. on the little post. it just turns freely. doesn't tighten or isn't loosening. is it possibly that the nut stripped?

I would say the nut is definitely stripped unless the bolt is turning with the nut. If so, there might be a second nut on the backside of the wire that you can use some ignition wrenches to hold. If that doesn't do it, take some pliers or vice grips and try to pull it off while you turn it.

can i jump it by putting a screw driver between the two contact terminals? and is the only ground in the back of the engine? also the striped nut on the starter.. i tried the vice grips but it seems not to help.....

Not the safest way but that would work. I would suggest getting a starter switch from the FLAPS and try that. It would be best to remove the starter and get it on the bench so you can work on it. Not difficult at all.