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Redline Racer
 
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Balance Shaft seals! (dialup-ers grab a beer)

Just got my balance shaft seals done yesterday! Hopefully now I won't need to dump a quart of oil in every two weeks.

Start time: 4:30 pm
The OR awaits...



This has been going on for awhile, but it's gotten progressively bad enough that I just can't stand it anymore, especially not at $6 a quart.




And they're off! With the easy part done, it's time to get serious. I've gotten this job down to about 20 min.




If only it were this easy! That stupid rear cover makes life much more difficult.




Essential equipment.... $30 at autozone is a good deal for how much frustration could be lurking without one.




Before: ...yeah, this has been going on awhile.




Nothing an old toothbrush and some engine degreaser couldn't fix.




After: More than an hour of tedious scrubbing yields good results!


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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky
Old 03-29-2008, 02:30 PM
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Redline Racer
 
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Don't forget this bolt hiding behind the lower balance shaft housing, or you'll never get it

apart.




There's more crap lurking behind the cover....



Drive the old seal and sleeve out with a deep socket and hammer.




Check that there's not too much of a groove worn in the sleeve, or it will just leak again.

It's especially an issue here since the balance shafts spin twice the speed of the engine.

Don't forget to oil the seal before instalation.




Drive the new seal in squarely with an appropriately sized socket.




Don't forget to replace the thin mylar gasket between the shaft and the sleeve!




I decided to use some gasket maker ("The Right Stuff" by Permatex is really good) for the

areas where the balance shaft covers meet the block, since the sealing surface inside is not

perfectly flat. Take no chances!




Leave no rubber unturned! Another WYIT (While You're In There), pry out the front main

crank seal with a flat blade screwdriver.




This is why you must torque the crankshaft bolt to 158 Ft. lbs. The sealing sleeve is also

the oil pump drive gear, which is neither keyed nor splined to the crankshaft. Don't forget

the o-ring that seals it to the crank.




Oil pump drive.

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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky
Old 03-29-2008, 02:34 PM
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Ahhh...all ready for reassembly!




With the hard part over, the only thing left is the stuff we all know and love. (notice how

much darker it is!

)



Finish time (including cleanup): 12:30 am

Actually, I'm glad I didn't try to do it at the same time as the water pump, or I probably

would have commited suicide or something...
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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky
Old 03-29-2008, 02:34 PM
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Will work for parts
 
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Very nice! I tend to get into the work and never take any photos. Might also have something to do with not having anything less than a monsterours SLR.

Kinda makes me wish i had the motivation to find the leaks on my car.
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:53 PM
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Hi, I have heard that each balance shaft seal is different and you want to make sure that you put the correct one in. Is this true?
Old 03-29-2008, 03:02 PM
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Yes, the shafts spin in opposite directions, so the raised areas of the seals are spiraled in opposite directions. Get the correct one on the correct shaft, or you will be directing the oil outside of the engine rather than back into it.

Keith
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Old 03-29-2008, 05:23 PM
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Zedsn, Yes, there is an upper seal and a lower balance shaft seal (PP catalog).

Great pictures! 8 hours to complete. I have not done this project on either car. I did replace the oil pump drive gear/O ring/seal due to the groove you mentioned with the balance shaft sleeve.
Thanks for the info.

John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S
Old 03-29-2008, 05:29 PM
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Manna from heaven! Thanks alot -- I am doing this job and I needed a good reference to get it staight in my head -- excellent help -- thanks.

-Dan
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:52 PM
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Have you started up yet? Verified no leakage?

Nothing is more frustrating than doing that job and having it leak again. BTDT.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:01 AM
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I need to do this badly. This and the front main seal are most probably the source of some small drips. I have never dulved that deep into it though. It would be a good opportunity to check the belts. It just seems so hard to get to all of it because of the radiator is right there. How much do the seals and what not cost? And did you use Clarks as a guide?
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:40 AM
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The seals are not bad; about $45 including the front crankshaft seals here on pelican. The only problem if you don't have them is the need for a flywheel lock and a balance shaft sprocket holding tool. I have looked at the clark's guide in the past, but it is a pretty straightforward job. The hard part is having to strip the front of the engine to get to them, and all the belt retensioning that goes with that (and removing the starter to install the flywheel lock in order to remove the front crankshaft pulleys...and all the reinstallation!) All the oil cleanup added at least an hour to the job, but it was probably longer.

Also, the radiator clearance is not a problem, as long as your gear puller will fit on the front main pulley without hitting it. If not, add another hour of pain and suffering to drain the coolant and pull the radiator (or just buy a compact enough puller).

This is my one and only daily driver (hence staying up until 1 am doing it), so I got to test it out about 6 hours later and so far so good. The front main seal area is bone dry, the top balance shaft area looks good, and the lower balance shaft housing looks good except for a slight weeping on the bottom corner, which could be stray oil that was external to the seal after reassembly. I just wiped it down and will look again after a couple days. Time will tell, but at least it will be much better than it was.

The bad news is that the oil pan gasket is leaking in that corner. It's going to have to get pretty bad before I decide to tackle that one. Now on to the AOS and dip stick seals which are making a mess of their own on the other side (and potentially another oil pan gasket leak).
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Last edited by HondaDustR; 03-30-2008 at 07:38 PM..
Old 03-30-2008, 07:32 PM
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Do you have a tensioning tool or do you do it all by hand?
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:24 PM
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Nice. You must do the same with your AOS seal job - post some good pics. The oil pan gasket WYIT is, of course, rod bearings...

Yay.
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schumi View Post
Do you have a tensioning tool or do you do it all by hand?
I borrowed the genuine Porsche tool from many944s once and "calibrated" my feel, and now I do it by hand. It's really not a big deal once you know about what it feels like. I've been through a timing belt and a half with some readjustments in between doing it by hand and no failures yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slam View Post
Nice. You must do the same with your AOS seal job - post some good pics. The oil pan gasket WYIT is, of course, rod bearings...

Yay.
I will. I'll be doing it sometime in the next month, as I have to plan to be more or less without free access to a car for a week while 8 injectors go to witchhunter. It should be extra interesting, as I'm hoping to do some port matching if I have time, and maybe a little bit of port work If I see anything obvious.

Can you do rod bearings without removing the crank?
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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky
Old 03-31-2008, 04:44 PM
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May I also add that it's highly recomended to have some jackstands or drive-on ramps to do this on. Add an empty coolant jug with the cap on as a pillow and it's almost relaxing stretching out on the ground with plenty of room to work!
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:36 PM
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Can you do rod bearings without removing the crank?

Yes you can. Main bearings would be more difficult but might still be possible.
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:26 PM
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The only thing you can't do without removing the crank are the main bearings. It's amazing how much rebuilding can be done with the engine in the car. So far I've done the whole thing except the rings and main bearings with the engine in. But the rings can be done too. Germans...

Actually, my wife's 924 is even easier because of the way the motor mounts are set up. Then I look at my mom's Town Car and shudder.

I agree with the pillow idea. Saves the spine and helps if you've got rotator cuff problems.
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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
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Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 04-01-2008, 10:14 AM
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Thanks for the pictures and talk-thru. My front seal just started dripping and I'm going to order the parts and do all 3 seals and the idler and tensioning pulleys for the belts which at 93,000 mi. are due. With my blinding speed I'll kiss a weekend plus goodby to get all that done!

Jon
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:39 PM
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After a couple weeks, they have proven to be leak free, and with the Mobil 1 in it, too.
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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky
Old 04-07-2008, 12:30 PM
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What parts did you get for the job? Just the balance shaft seals and poly/mylar o-ring? Is that all you need there? (hope so!)

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Old 05-23-2008, 10:44 PM
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