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Smile 1983 944 Oil Cooler Seal replacement

hey Guys.

I am getting ready to replace the Oil cooler seal on my 83' 944. Are there any issues I should be aware of before starting this repair
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:43 AM
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a few things...

Yes, I am starting this procedure this afternoon as well.

- the gasket kit does not come with oil PRV seals so get them separately (there were two types of PRVs, 1-piece and 3-piece)
- there is an alignment tool for the PRV you are supposed to use
- remove the exhaust manifolds to make life easier (2-3 pipe FIRST, THEN 1-4 pipe)
- remove the oil pressure sending unit first to avoid damage
- remove oil filter for more clearance
- unbolt the PS pump (but don't disconnect the hoses) and wire it up to something out of the way for more clearance
- remove the heat shield from the oil cooler

Once you get all those things sorted, you can actually do the oil cooler seals fairly easily (or at least it looks that way).

I am doing a head gasket and front reseal and water pump so I have a lot more things out of the way but the above items will help you if you are only doing the oil cooler.
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Old 05-01-2008, 08:02 AM
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take the cooler and get it pressure tested too. It's not always the seals that cause the problem. The coolers themselves do devlope leaks.
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Old 05-01-2008, 11:11 AM
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onZedge is right for the most part. I didn't need to move my exhaust manifold.

Do a search for the shop manual procedure as it applies to the late-model housing and OPRV if you're planning to update. The seal kit includes spacers for the cooler element and the shop manual illustrates how to set up proper clearance. I've got an early car with the early housing and I just used my early 3-piece OPRV so simply reassembled. The updates get more complicated. You will need the alignment tool.

I agree with hpservertech - have your element tested.

HTH and good luck.
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:24 PM
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And if you haven't, read www.clarks-garage.com
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:04 PM
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I second removing the exhaust manifold! I'm a pretty seasoned mechanic and I tried it with the manifolds on first time around and couldn't be sure the housing mated up properly the first time and had to redo it with out the manifolds on. It makes it soooo much simpler. As for the alignment tool....I bought one...it was a waste of time to me.
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Old 05-01-2008, 03:34 PM
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I didn't totally pull my manifold. I merely removed the nuts, and slid it out of the way. This only really works if you have a manual steering car, I hear that those with power steering are a little more involved, as the reservoir is in your way.
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:12 PM
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Hi All,

I'm digging up this thread as I recently did my oil cooler seals and found forum posts like this hugely helpful - hopefully a few points might assist anyone else doing the same job:

- you don't need to remove the exhaust manifolds, but I can see how it would change an extremely awkward job into a mere slightly fiddly task. I decided not to as the exhaust manifolds don't look like they've ever been off my car ((1987 2.5 NA, UK spec) lots of flaky surface rust) and didn't fancy rounding off any of the studs or nuts. If I had a 2nd car and a workshop full of helicoils I might've been tempted.
- I didn't use the crowfoot adapter or 32mm spanner (that some people have talked about) - no idea which models these are recommended for but my oil pressure sender came off with a normal 24mm open-ended spanner...
- I purchased a 3/8" UJ to enable access the main oil cooler bolts. Frankly, without this I think this job would've been truly impossible (especially removal of the upper-front oil cooler housing bolt, where even with the UJ and several exension bars was still very difficult
- you have to remove the heatshield from the oil cooler to get to the upper mounting bolts. It's easy enough to remove the securing bolts from under the car with the right socket set, however I was unable to remove the heatshield itself from the car, due to lack of clearance with the exhaust manifolds, wheel-arch etc... you have to slide the heatshield forward to access the rear oil-cooler mounting bolt, and vice versa. When it's off might be a good time to wire brush off any loose rust / debris from the underside of the manifolds, so that as little as possible falls into the oil-cooler area when you're trying to reassemble it cleanly.
- I found it very difficult remove the oil cooler housing out the opening below in its 'normal' orientation - I had to almost twist it round 180 to get it free of the car in the end - even after removing the anti-roll bar and hanging the PAS pump out the way, I still had to remove the mounting bolts for the annoying PAS line that runs almost diagonally across the opening; the addional 5mm-6mm of play this provided was just enough to remove the cooler from the car.

Maybe this makes it sound worse than it was, but as long as you're prepared for one of those days where you feel you're performing a relatively difficult task, whilst your're working through a letterbox, it's definitely possible. 500 miles on and my oil leaks have disappeared. Fingers are still crossed....
Old 08-10-2015, 03:54 AM
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