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Headgasket reassemble...

Ok, well I'm waiting on my cylinder head to get back from the machine shop so I can finally finish up my head gasket job. I've got a series of questions, that I hope I can get some answers so I can just make the car totally solid.

First, my timing belt was replaced about 10,000 miles ago, but I have no idea if my rollers are bad. I only slipped the belt off the camshaft gear, is there any way to tell if they are bad without having to take off the camshaft belt if I don't have to? Also, if I buy a roller kit, do I need to be concerned about the size of the water pump roller? I had the water pump replaced about 5,000 miles ago, but I don't know what size of roller is on it. Also, I'm not home, so I can't just run out and measure it.

Second, what is the most common way to tension the power steering and a/c belts?

Third, someone on here was having trouble with blowing cam tower gaskets. Someone then suggested using a spray copper gasket adhesive. Should I use that on all the gaskets I replace (intake, water, exhaust, cam tower, & head gasket), or is that something that should only be used on the cam tower gasket?

Fourth, I removed all the exhaust studs from the head before I took it into the shop. Should I just re-use the old studs or should I just replace them all?

I think those are all the questions I have right now, but I may have some more as I'm bored out of my mind on my business trip. Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 05-14-2008, 05:06 PM
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Any help anyone? All is appreciated, even sarcastic comments.

Thanks!
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Old 05-17-2008, 06:49 AM
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So the belts weren't replaced when the waterpump was? hmm

Adjust the AC and alternator belt tension using the tension rod on them. AC= 17mm and Alternator = 13mm

I would not use that spray adhesive crap, just clean both surfaces well and tighten to the factory torque specs using the clockwise technique. Intake and exhaust would never need a adhesive, the gaskets and crush rings work fine.

Might as well replace the studs with some nice stainless ones. It could save you from a hastle in the future.

This guys sells some nice ones at a reasonable price, try PMing him as it looks like his site is down. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=349725
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Old 05-17-2008, 08:00 AM
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you can just as well remove rollers, spin them in your hand - if you detect roughness replace them. like keithr726 syas, stay away from spray ons, clean surface and gaskets will suffice. You can use some copper based grease on the exhause studs prior to installing the nuts. Tension on AC /Alternaor belt not that critical, a loose belt might make a noice, tension so that you have approx 1" deflection on the longest stretch of the belt.
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Old 05-17-2008, 11:48 AM
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i used a thin layer of gasket sealer.... just to keep the gasket from moving while reassembley.
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Old 05-17-2008, 04:48 PM
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Thanks for the help everyone.

Keith, I guess I wasn't clear on the A/C and PS belts. I had to shorten their tension rods to remove them, so I realized that was how they are tensioned. I was interested in how tight they had to be (like rudidelange's response). I didn't know how tight to tension them.

Yep, I realize the belts not being replaced when the water pump sounds suspicious. Needless to say, I don't use that mechanic anymore.

As for the gasket sealer, 2 against and 1 for. AZ, do you use the gasket sealer on all gaskets, or just specific ones?

Thanks again for the help!
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Old 05-18-2008, 05:26 AM
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