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anyone rebuild air-oil-sepparator?
Has anyone rebuilt an air-oil sepperator? How do they work? What parts do I need? Or do i just need to get a new one?
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Brian '86 944 NA '94 Jeep Cherokee 3" and 31's '86 Chevy C10 425hp '98 Dodge Neon (the wife) |
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Trying to work for parts!
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What's to rebuild them? They are made of plastic.
If you need one I have one for sale. Needs the orings replaced. Send me a pm if you want it.
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Funniest thing. I was showing my friend how it worked, where it got vaccuum etc and noticed a crappy kinked rubber line. The vacuum hose to the j-boot was totally kinked and this caused there to be WAY to much crank case pressure. So I think I got this problem nailed. We'll see....now for that stupid backfire problem...though this would have fixed that.
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Brian '86 944 NA '94 Jeep Cherokee 3" and 31's '86 Chevy C10 425hp '98 Dodge Neon (the wife) |
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What Are The Part Number For The O-rings ?
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999-701-613-40-M104 and 999-701-661-40-M100 is that is? I just figured there was more to them than that....but then again unkinking that hose fixed a few of my problems. But now I'm begining to think my AFM is out of calibration.
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Brian '86 944 NA '94 Jeep Cherokee 3" and 31's '86 Chevy C10 425hp '98 Dodge Neon (the wife) |
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Nope, it's just an empty container..... And an expensive one at that.
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Jack 86 Porsche 951 - LR 3" Exhaust, MaxHP chips and ProfecB @ 15psi 83 Porsche 944 - Still under re-construction. 08 Suzuki Boulevard M109R LE 02 Nissan Altima SE3.5 |
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Good deal! lol
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Brian '86 944 NA '94 Jeep Cherokee 3" and 31's '86 Chevy C10 425hp '98 Dodge Neon (the wife) |
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Certified Rennwerker
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How it works......Takes the mist created by the engine crank spinning and removes the air in the separator and back to the crankcase. Simply put oil turns to mist and then returns to liquid and back to the engine. The oil you see leaking is the oil/mist passing the 3 seals. Not a tough repair but labor intensive as the intake comes off so new gaskets are a possibilty there. Drain the case to help spillage out the lower port to the separator/block.
A/O..... Same thing as a PCV unit on a Domestic Dal
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cycling has-been
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not as simple a design as it appears.
there are a two fixed baffles inside, one to help direct poured oil to the proper locations and one to direct the fumes to the hoses. The top must pry off somehow as it has a ring of snap dimples. Bill K
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I think i've got it figured out now. It's alot simpler than i thought. Thanks for the explainations! I'm gonna see if it continues to leak since I fixed the rediculous crank case pressure that was causing oil leaks. I know my car isn't doing the smoke-on-decel problem now that I fixed that so I'm quite pumped about that.
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Brian '86 944 NA '94 Jeep Cherokee 3" and 31's '86 Chevy C10 425hp '98 Dodge Neon (the wife) |
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I found one on e-bay for $10 and replaced it myself on the 968. Actually it's a pretty simple job but the intake must be removed(no big deal). I didn't have to drain the oil to change the separator, but then again this is on a 968. The total job took less than 3 hours and that was taking my time.
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I did mine when I did my intake gaskets/fuel injectors, and I didn't need to drain any oil.
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Quote:
The 951 is that simple, maybe the N/A versions are different. I've had the top off of mine, pretty much it's just a plastic cup with 4 ports on it. There's a little bit of a design to the top vacuum port, but I wouldn't even really call it a baffle.
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Jack 86 Porsche 951 - LR 3" Exhaust, MaxHP chips and ProfecB @ 15psi 83 Porsche 944 - Still under re-construction. 08 Suzuki Boulevard M109R LE 02 Nissan Altima SE3.5 |
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Trying to work for parts!
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What bkreigsr is refering to is the baffle in the oil pan, not the air/oil seperator.
The NA is no different then the turbo. 3 bolts and it's out. Much easier if the intake manifold is off though.
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