Correct spring compressor for struts?
 

Will these work on a 924S?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2 004155&productId=2004155&catalogId=10101

Thanks.

those work fine

you may find though that you do not need them at all -

make sure you are not under the car during any of this - always take great care jacking up the car and placing stands

if the upper mount setup is the same as on the 968, you need only to remove the big center nut (leaving the upper mount in place) - then unbolt the lever arms of the sway bar on both sides (you can leave the center mounts in place) - this allows the control arm to drop freely without having to use spring compressors - use a floor jack under the control arm to prevent it from falling too fast

reinstallation is the reverse, but you will need to put a floor jack under the control arm to compress the spring enough to get it up into where you can get the nut on the strut

take a look - you may get lucky

+1 to above. I have used the "weight of the car" method on both my cars, and thought is was safer than a lot of spring compressors I've used. And as an added bonus, the alignment is not disturbed.

Steps:

1. Loosen both strut nuts and lug nuts.
2. Raise car, place on jackstands, remove wheels and sway bar.
3. Jack up on control arm with wooden block, remove large strut nut, and carefully lower jack.
4. Strut assembly should clear fender and swing out.

Have fun!

+2 ^

Not a fan of those at all. if you go to autozone or parts america you can rent the better ones. $60, then return them. but with either one, you really should use an air compressor to help tighten things down.

I just did this over the weekend. 30 minutes for both sides. New tie rods were going on so an alignment was going to be needed anyway.

Flash968

I had thought this was the method discribed in the Hayes manual. A Porsche mechanic said I'd need to compress the springs. I'll bet he was thinking of a car on a lift. Thanks for the reply.

Rasta

If the alignment stays true... I'm all over this method. Nothing like saving that cost. Local Porsche dealership quoted $275 for just the labor. Noboby else in my area will do it.

the method commonly used uses compressors, whether on a lift or on stands - i figured this one out on my own though - not sure why nobody else seemed to know about it, but it seemed obvious to me

I tried this one the other night. Unfortunately the old springs are almost too long to get out from under the fender. They are really tall and when you finally get them pulled away they will try to scratch the heck out of the inside of the fender. An old trick I learned a long time ago is to put a piece of duct tape along the fender wrapping it around the inner and outer sides. Keeps the top of the spring/strut from messing up your fancy paint job!!!

The mechanic is correct, the 'proper' way is to remove the strut assembly from the car and use a spring/strut compressor on the bench.

It's just easier, faster and cheaper to use the weight of the car to compress the springs instead.

;)

disconnecting the sway bar from both control arms is the key here - this is what allows the control arm to swing fully downward - otherwise, the preload causes the spring to whack the fender

i've seen too many spring compressors slip and hurt people and cause damage to the car - this is MUCH easier and safer - you MUST take care on the jacking and stands, as you will be lifting a bit with the floor jack

It's not easier or faster, but it might be cheaper to use the car's weight to compress the spring. I scribe the lower strut mount and remove as an assembly, but then again I have the "Strut Tamer" at work. Anytime I work on the front end, I take it in to get the alignment checked and adjusted, and sometimes they have to move it. Regardless, I've used the lifetime waranty on the alignment that I purchased from firestone for $120 five years ago a time or six. It's also nice that they qoute me for work that they will never do.:)

Well got it up on jacks and it sure looks like a set of spring compressors are needed. I don't see how the springs can be compressed by the weight of the car and still remove the shock inserts.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1214273120.jpg

after disconnecting the swaybar, the control arm swings down a LONG way - then you merely slip the spring off - now you have access to the strut - very simple

Another way to go is to bring the struts into a mechanic. I brought in my struts had him take apart the strut and reasemble it, no worries about flying springs and I knew it was done safely and properly. I cant remember how much it cost but I think it was cheaper than buying the spring compressors.

The best thing about the spring compressors are that they are part of autozone & parts america's rental program. so you just buy them and then return them and get all your money back. It can be done in just a few hours.

i do have a set, so it's not like i couldn't go that way - they were only $60 - i just found an easier way to get the job done

It works, man. I just did it on my wife's car, 30 minutes per side, just follow the steps above. If you loosened the strut nut a bit, jacking on the control arm will release the pressure on it and you can take the nut off. CAREFULLY lowering the jack while guiding the strut assembly with your other hand then drops the unit down out of the fender, and you can swing it toward you though the wheel arch. You can then change the insert.

O.K. I get the picture now. I did go ahead order the spring compressors from JC Whitney though. A set of two for $24.99 plus shipping is not a bad deal. That way I'm covered either way. Thanks for all the good advise guys!

Oh yeah, you may also want to bust the retaining collar loose while the asembly is still bolted up to the car. . .I use a hammer and chisel (new inserts should come with new ones). Also, pour some ATF into the strut before installing the insert for heat dissipation.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.