Series 1 Brake Upgrade Advice

DSPTurtle · 08-03-2008, 07:37 PM

Sebring was awesome. Other then blowing out a dust cap and losing a DME reference sensor for one run everything was cool until... second to last run of the weekend. Instructor has me flying around the track. We are braking later and later and harder and harder. Amazing what the stock brakes will do!!! Anyway, warped a rotor on that run. Instructor made me pull the pads and check for cracks before we could go for last run... wow, those calipers are really hot after you pull in the pits. We went out for the last run after everything looked fine except a little pulsating in the braking application.
So, anyone have any advice on what to do to a 1983 (Series 1) 944 to make the brakes a little more reliable? This is the second time that I have warped a rotor at a DE. Instructor said I was using the brakes very effectively and not over or under using them. So, it seems like I need to do a little something to increase reliability.
I am currently running stock OEM rotors, Super Blue fluid, SS brake lines and OEM Textar pads. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!!!

Techno Duck · Techno Duck's Garage

Well i would first consider trying a more track oriented brake pad. That will make a big difference to reducing your fade issues as the operating temperature range will be much higher than with stock pads. The other option is to start adding brake cooling ducts.

ERAU944 · ERAU944's Garage

well this isn't really a fade issue... more of a 'warping' or brake pad deposit issue.

i have this with my '84 as well, i've tried 3 sets of rotors, 2 sets of hubs, a different set of hubs and spindles, and all sorts of other nonsense.. nothing seems to work. ugh.

DSPTurtle · 08-03-2008, 08:08 PM

Mike, do you have any type of cooling ducts? What pads have you used? I am definitely getting tired of the pain in the butt style of getting the front rotors off... that is a nightmare compared to the rotor hats found on most of the newer cars!!!
Jon, what kind of pad is more "track oriented"? I have heard numerous suggestions, but nothing from anyone with experience. What do you run on das Boost?

Techno Duck · Techno Duck's Garage

Many options available for pads. I am a huge fan of Porterfield. I run the R4S because my car sees mostly street and auto-x. For more serious track i would look into the R4 (the R4S compound will not be suitable for you on a track) or the KFP Magnum Gold pads. Ive heard great things about these from everyone i know locally that runs them. The nice thing is they are still very streetable (though they do squeal loudly). I suggest better pads because over heated / glazed pads will leave deposits on rotors, causing the vibrating pedal.

There are a few different options for brake cooling. You can add the 968 cooling scoops, though it will require some custom brackets to attach them as your probably still using the steel control arms (a good thing). You would also have to figure out how to attach the upper portion to your struts. The other option is to remove the dust shields and add in backing plates for hoses. Similar to what Lindsey Racing
sells...http://www.lindseyracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=LR&Category_Code=COOLING

This option will require removal of the foglights for the ducting.

ERAU944 · ERAU944's Garage

i've got no cooling ducts, and use stock replacement rotors with mintex pads. i'm thinking about sanding down the rotors and re-bedding to see if that doesn't help...

DSPTurtle · 08-04-2008, 06:50 AM

Napa will turn them for like $15. Pretty cheap and if you talk to the guy they will only take off enough to remove the deposits. I had a real good experience the last time I did this two months ago. Only pain in the neck is getting the rotors off the car without having to repack bearings. Although I am guessing at this point I could use a bearing repack.

Dantilla · 08-04-2008, 07:41 AM

My race car has stock brakes. Porterfield R4 pads, Motul fluid, and cooling ducts instead of fog lights.

ERAU944 · ERAU944's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSPTurtle

Napa will turn them for like $15. Pretty cheap and if you talk to the guy they will only take off enough to remove the deposits. I had a real good experience the last time I did this two months ago. Only pain in the neck is getting the rotors off the car without having to repack bearings. Although I am guessing at this point I could use a bearing repack.

in a prevous life, i was that guy at napa. didn't work.