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Schumi's Avatar
 
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Cam tower / intake manifold - paint or powdercoat?

So In the next few days I am pulling the engine from one of my cars and starting a rebuild. Everything is getting this heavy degreaser / hot water scrub down to look like new. I want the engine to look especially good before I reinstall as this car will be getting sold eventually (I plan on racing it for no more than 2 seasons). Anyone have any suggestions on painting the cam tower and intake? I have see some people powerdercoat the intake. I am not sure this is in my budget. If I were to paint the cam tower, what type of paint should be used? I would like something close to guards red. Does it have to be High-heat paint? I estimate the surface temperatures of the aluminum would not exceed 250 degrees F.

For reference, here's a photo from Broadfoot Racing:



That's the look I am going to go for. How is it the block is that clean of aluminum? Is it just hot-dipped or do they actually paint the blocks?

And I notice on a few of their finished engine pictures, the engines do not have the black timing belt covers installed, even thought the belts are installed. Is it widely accepted as safe to run no belt covers on a non-streeted car?

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Old 08-09-2008, 08:26 PM
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The block was probably hot tanked prior to being rebuilt. This basically returns the aluminum to looking brand new. I wouldnt be surprised if they painted it for further effect. I chose to paint the cam tower and intake manifold on all of my cars so far. My reasoning was powder coating adds to my downtime unless i go through the hassle of buying spares. The other thing is it requires disassembly of the cam tower which can be a major PITA. Removing the triple square bolt holding on the cam gear can be a real bear.

I see no problem with running no belt covers as long as you run the lower engine tray. It makes inspections much easier aswell as makes replacing the waterpump go by quicker because you no longer need to remove the gears / pulley off the crank.
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:56 PM
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So no belt covers it will be... I actually broke the rear lower cover getting it off because three of the 10mm bolts broke their insert housings when coming out which cracked the plastic.

A friend of mine local who builds mopar engines has gone to a guy to hot dip his blocks.. This may be in order pending it isn't grossly expensive.
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Old 08-09-2008, 09:01 PM
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I would obviously prefer powder coating but I have read people's posts saying that engine paint can be fairly durable. As long as the surface is clean and the paint is specified for engines.

I met someone building a nice 951 engine and he was painting his parts with POR15. He said you can even brush it on and the finish comes out almost as hard tough as powder coating. POR15 is expensive though, but at least it can be used for many applications like rust repair, etc.
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Old 08-09-2008, 10:05 PM
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Be careful using the term "hot tank". Most machine shops that still have a tank are filled with a very caustic lye solution that will actually eat up an aluminum block! I think you would be suprized how well soap and water work! Here is a block that I recently tore all the way down for a rebuild. It was steam washed with a little dish soap.

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Old 08-10-2008, 04:01 AM
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I painted mine black (black car) with high temp engine gloss. I have no idea how well it will hold up, it's only been back on the car for two weeks. I must have put 5-6 coats on it. It looks exactly like the one above, but obviously better since it's not red.
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Old 08-10-2008, 05:21 AM
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I have a set of belt covers you can have if you want them. They are just sitting in the garage.

There is a guy out in St. Charles that does powdercoating. Pretty cheap too. I had him do an intake, springs, strut housings and a pair of calipers and it was only $140. Would of been cheaper but the blue I had him do was a 2 stage with a clear coat on it. Here are some pictures: http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s288/hpservertech/944/Powdercoating/
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Old 08-10-2008, 06:43 AM
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hpservertech-

that looks nice. we'll have to see how much coin I have laying around after the rebuild, that definitely looks worth it. I may or may not need those belt covers. Your car driving? I msg'd Steve to see what he's up too- I'm off this week and next and up for hangin' out or doing a drive.

also going to get the engine hoist and stand maybe this week. finally can get the engine out and into the basement and work on it in the AC instead of in a barn...
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Old 08-10-2008, 10:30 AM
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Regarding paint durability, Duplicolor high temp has held up great on both of my engines. It does chip if your not careful when working around it but touch ups take all of a minute with a few quick resprays. The key is cleaning the parts very well prior to painting.







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Old 08-10-2008, 12:17 PM
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Of course not, but what else is new. I should be picking up my new one though some time this week.

You need some help this week?
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:42 PM
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When I rebuilt my '84, I had the cam tower and intake manifold powder coated by a local professional for less that $100 total, and it was well worth it. Looked great, and stays super clean with very little maintenance. I highly recommend it.
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Old 08-10-2008, 04:01 PM
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the exhaust manifolds can easily see 350 degrees, so be sure that any paint near that can handle it
Old 08-10-2008, 04:43 PM
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A shot from the cam tower side please, white944cup.

I'm surprsied most of you haven't dumped that canister near the passenger side strut/shock tower. Is that for blinker fluid or what?
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Old 08-10-2008, 05:22 PM
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Some of us have to drive in parking lots, which is no fun with manual.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:11 PM
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How is the power rack without the 'power'?

I'm wanting to get rid of as many engine drive losses as possible and an early manual rack swap is not in the budget. I was thinking an electric PS pump conversion (they used them on the gen 2 MR2's) but that puts a lot of load on the alternator without a PWM controller.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:12 AM
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Matt: Picture you requested.....lighting was not very good.
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:11 PM
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Mike:

I have used brake caliper paint in the past w/ very good results. I degreased completely, used an etching primer, painted. The calipers on my 84 were done this way w/ a standard red and they have help up extremely well.

Steve
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:05 PM
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I have a pair of caliper brackets if you want them along with the covers. I'm not going to use them since I had mine powdercoated.
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schumi View Post
How is the power rack without the 'power'?
Far stiffer than manual.

And FWIW, my 931 has sticky 205/55 Yokis up front and a manual rack. . .if you can't park it you need to hit the gym.

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Old 08-12-2008, 07:00 AM
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Wow !

Quote:
Originally Posted by many944s View Post
be Careful Using The Term "hot Tank". Most Machine Shops That Still Have A Tank Are Filled With A Very Caustic Lye Solution That Will Actually Eat Up An Aluminum Block! I Think You Would Be Suprized How Well Soap And Water Work! Here Is A Block That I Recently Tore All The Way Down For A Rebuild. It Was Steam Washed With A Little Dish Soap.


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Old 08-14-2008, 04:59 AM
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