|
|
|
|
| Author |
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 214
|
Please suggest an order of work
I'm doing the following stuff to my '86 NA. I have all the requisite how-to's, but can anyone suggest a general order of operation to minimize this task?
Oil/Water cooler seals Camshaft seals Other front seals Waterpump Time & Bal belts Here's my guess: Find and lock TDC Remove T&B belts Do the cam seal complete Remove the w/p Do the cooler seals complete Do the balance shaft and crank seals Reinstall w/p Install & tension T&B belts Thanks
__________________
'99 996 Arctic silver over black. In the past I've owned and wrenched on a '96 Audi A4, '86 944 NA. '79 928, '72 914. Non-Teutonic vehicles of interest: 3 MGB's (one converted to V8 power), Triumph Stag & TR250, Jensen-Healey, T-Bird SC. Most recent "project" was a Factory Five MKII Roadster. |
||
08-26-2008, 09:32 AM
|
|
|
Trying to work for parts!
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MO
Posts: 1,760
|
That looks good.
Drain oil & coolant first. Add in to check motor mounts as well somewhere in there.
__________________
86 Metallic Grey 85.5 Metallic graphite - Gone |
||
|
08-26-2008, 09:46 AM
|
|
|
Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
|
Quote:
Doing this amount of work, some things to consider..... The front seal kit with balance shaft races should be used. Any groove will ruin a new seal. All rollers should be replaced on cam and bal belt. The oil pump drive sleeve should be replaced if ANY groove appears where the seal hits. You may decide to change the thermofan switch on the radiator since the coolant is drained. Remove the radiator and clean the hidden fins behind the AC condensor. And carefully check/tighten the small hose fitting above the upper radiator hose. Permatex has a new product called "Right Stuff" (thanks HondaDustR). Cures immediately. For your waterpump and oil cooler seal. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing.htm Replace your heater control valve if any white chalk deposit shows. Drips on clutch if leaking. Otherwise, nope, can't think of a thing  John_AZ 1988 924S + 1987 924S |
||
|
08-26-2008, 10:06 AM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sweden
Posts: 215
|
Eh.....eh, where do I see changing the coolant thermostat in WP? Be shure to get the right seals to go with it
 ____________________________________ Lapponia 1984 944 na |
||
|
08-26-2008, 10:20 AM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 214
|
John_AZ - Yea, I got the Pelican seal kit with all that stuff. I went ahead and got the o/p drive sleeve just in case. Opted for the 'new' w/p since it came with a new t-stat and snap ring and rubber seal.
On the oil cooler seal - do you mean use the Right Stuff on the o-ring & metal case to block gasket? I have some Honda-Bond - I've read that works too. Any thoughts? Thanks
__________________
'99 996 Arctic silver over black. In the past I've owned and wrenched on a '96 Audi A4, '86 944 NA. '79 928, '72 914. Non-Teutonic vehicles of interest: 3 MGB's (one converted to V8 power), Triumph Stag & TR250, Jensen-Healey, T-Bird SC. Most recent "project" was a Factory Five MKII Roadster. |
||
|
08-26-2008, 01:01 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,370
|
Make sure that you put the balance shaft seals where they are supposed to go. The 2 seals should be different and one for each side. I didn't know this at the time and had a 50 50 chance to get it right. Still don't know if I got it right.
|
||
|
08-26-2008, 01:46 PM
|
|
|
|
Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
|
Quote:
I am not familiar with Honda-Bond. I would guess if it works for high rpm, vibration, mixture of chemicals and high block temps---you should be OK. Anyway, From the original Haynes Porsche 944 book, RTV is used in the groove of the oil cooler housing for the main/big gasket. I have found from 3X experience that an artist paint brush to smooth a thin layer in the groove. You do not want to fill it up. You may also see a few pits in the metal. I used Permatex Copper and had no problems. It sets in 1 hour and cures in 24 hours. You will be under the car longer than that. Finishing up, get new crush washers for the OPRV and oil sender. It will drip if not replaced. The 2 posts on the oil pressure sender are hollow and brittle, be careful. Check the oil cooler for leaks when it is out. A hose with lung/low pressure. Put some lubricant on the 2 green? oil cooler seals for easier installation. GL John_AZ |
||
|
08-26-2008, 05:19 PM
|
|
|
Trying to work for parts!
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MO
Posts: 1,760
|
I've done this on 3 different cars and have never used any sealant/rtv for the oil cooler gasket.
__________________
86 Metallic Grey 85.5 Metallic graphite - Gone |
||
|
08-26-2008, 05:36 PM
|
|
|
Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
|
Follow up on WP.
The WP bolts may have been kept in place with Loctite 270 (per WSM). Caution. Wake up the bolts or even heat them to brake the bond. If you strip the threads in the SOFT crankcase you will rethread. If you brake the bolt you will learn how to drill out the broken piece. New bolts would be nice to use. The torque is 8Nm or 6 Ft pounds. Here is a fine link. http://www.arnnworx.com/h2o-pump.htm John_AZ |
||
|
08-26-2008, 10:12 PM
|
|
