Probably cause of oil leaks

[tdskip]

Hi guys - back again with a question on the 1987 924S that I woke up after 15 years. She is running well at this point, and except for the sunroof gears that I managed to strip by not knowing any better, the only other issue I need to sort out right away is her oil leak(s) from the engine area.

Is there a likely/known seal that goes over time?

Thanks!

[Techno Duck]

Well its only a matter of time before any or all of the seals on the engine start leaking. You need to isolate what corner of the engine its coming from first.

Front center - Crank seal, upper balance shaft
Front passenger - lower balance shaft, cam tower
Rear passenger - cam tower, rear cam tower seal, lower balance shaft (rear o-ring)
Rear right - air oil separator, dip stick fill tube, upper balance shaft (rear o-ring)

And of course anything inbetween that with the oil pan gasket..though that usually will leak at the corners .

[tdskip]

Thanks Jon - I'll take a look and be more precise on the location(s) of the leaks.

How gnarly are these to replace. The oil pan gasket is a bear, no?

[Techno Duck]

Just about the only seals easy to replace are the rear cam tower and dip-stick o-ring.

The air oil seporator require removal of the intake manifold.

The crank and balance shaft gaskets basically require a timing belt job.

Same with the rear balance shaft o-ring, plus removal of the covers.

The oil pan gasket requires supporting the engine from above, dropping the crossmember, then dropping the pan. Well worth doing rod bearings while the pan is off and taking a close look at the oil pickup tube.

[John_AZ]

To add to what Techno Duck has suggested:
1. The crank seal usually puts a groove in the oil pump sleeve. Replace the sleeve or the new seal leaks in a couple of weeks. Doing this will solve half garage floor puddles.
2. Pesky drips from the OPRV valve and oil pressure switch can be fixed cheap by getting new aluminum crush washers.
3. If you have power steering, pull the accordian boots on the shafts. If you get a puddle of PS fluid (auto trans fluid), get ready for a big job to replace the rack.
4. You can rent free with a deposit a radiator pressure set from your local auto parts store. Pump in 10 to 12 pounds of pressure and watch for leaks. Be careful and don't go overboard and pump higher. You will add leaks or separate the radiator plastic to metal seam.
5. If you see a fancy blue/green drip on your bumper shocks, the seals are gone, Replace is the only solution or just keep pressed in for a different bumper look.
6. Is the drip at the rear of the engine? Rear crank seal. Wait for clutch job.
7. Heater control valve. Does it have a crusty white deposit? Replace ($20) or it will drip on clutch and cause more problems.
8. Does your car have a slight vibration at idle-900 to 1100 rpm? Could be the motor mounts have leaked and should be replaced.
9. Does the passenger side floor mat get wet when it rains, snows or you wash your car? Fix the hole in the battery area.

Wow! There are more and I am trying to understand why I enjoy my cars so much?

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S 58.7K + 1987 924S 112K DD

[tdskip]

So I checked in the daylight today and it appears to be coolant from the front of the engine, definitely not oil or PS fluid.

Correct to assume it is likely from the water pump?

Thanks for the help!

[John_AZ]

Check the hose clamps. The one most often missed is on the top of the WP going to the heater. There is a small "J" hose. Carefully tighten the clamps all over.

GL
John_AZ