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Redline Racer
 
HondaDustR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,436
Locktite 518 on balance shaft housings?

I just found out that it might actually not be my oil pan gasket that is leaking.
The o-rings on both rear balance shaft housing plugs are totally shot and the plugs feel loose on the ends of the housings, so hopefully a $30 fix will solve my crankcase vacuum leak/oil leak problem.

The question is, has anyone used the locktite 518 anaerobic sealant to reseal the housing covers? It's also sold under the permatex name as Anaerobic gasket maker. I really didn't want to blow $25 on locktite 574, and picked up a tube of 518 for $5 at advance auto. From what I've read elsewere, people have used it successfully on transmissions and engine case halves and such. Has anyone had a problem using it here?
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 12-16-2008, 03:05 PM
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Just thinking out loud
 
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Join Date: Nov 2001
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The permatex stuff is flange sealant, not gasket maker. Any anerobic flange sealant will work fine, including 518. 574 is better. I went the $5 dollar route with permatex and have had good results.
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:36 PM
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Is there not a normal gasket that goes in between the balance shaft housings and the engine? My rear caps are 'loose' also- I thought this was normal. Now I'm afraid they will leak like a hose once the engine is reinstalled and I can't have that.

But a $5 tube of 518 can seal the end caps?
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:43 PM
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That Guy
 
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Schumi, the rear caps get loose because the o-ring shrinks with age.

There is no paper gasket between the cover and the block, the 574 or 518 is what creates the seal. Changing those o-rings is a bear because the entire cover needs to come off, this is especially annoying for the lower cover with the engine mount in the way. Im not sure if you can take the cover off with leaving the belts and everything on, never tried it that way.

If your rear caps are leaking oil, i have read of many people simply cleaning the area, then slapping some RTV silicone or gasket maker over the rear cap to stop the leaking. This is a decent temporary fix until you can pull the entire cover off and reseal the entire thing.
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Jon
1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 12-17-2008, 08:20 AM
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Thats the problem- I don't want to remove the covers to re seal them and end up causing more leaks- There was never any oil around the caps before, so I don't think they were leaking, but they are loose.

I remember there is a difference in... hmm.. it's either the early 944 to late 944 or maybe it's a difference in 944 to 968.. damn I can't remember, but the earlier design used the balance housings for bearings on the shaft, so if you remove the cover you can remove the shaft. Whereas the older design allows you to remove the cover and the shafts are held in place by bearing caps. I saw this in the shop manuals.
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:16 AM
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Automotive Necromancer
 
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gasket goop

First, spend the preparation time and make sure the mating surfaces are totally clean and flat. Be absolutely Anal about it. I go so far as to lightly sand and polish the mating surfaces. Also do a good job on the bolts and bolt holes. if you have pits due to oxidation or machining irregularities fill in with cold bond and sand back to flat.

Apply a very thin protective film of grease to the mating surfaces and then lightly paint both sides with that copper stuff, or any other suitable gasket material. I like "yamabond" which is only avail from yamaha dealerships, but it is really good *****. Let the gasket stuff dry for a while and then assemble. Use a mix of cv grease and anti sieze on the threads (just a touch) and a bit of paint or low strength locktite on the shoulder of the bolts, where they contact and apply pressure. torque the part down lightly and evenly, and then final torque the part. you should see just a tiny bit squeeze out. Less is more and a little bit should do ya.

Finally, "mark" one or more of the bolts with a stripe of paint so that you can tell at a glance if it has loosened up.

Do it right, spend the time, It CAN't leak.
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There may be nothing quite as expensive as a cheap Porsche: Ruby Red 84 928S : White 87 924s 2.5L NA (Blinky) M44/07-43H10676 spoiler delete - 046/2B - Belts 9/12, Clutch and OC seals 8/08 andd Red 94 Del Sol: Please put your Make, Model and Year in Sig. Try not to break more than you fix.
Old 12-17-2008, 09:59 AM
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