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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 214
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Small radiator leak?
I slightly drip coolant - only when warm. From below, it looks to be coming from the fan switch. I've snugged it a couple of times, but no go. Since the upper hose is just above the switch and could be dripping ON the switch and fooling me, I've snugged that up too. I've tried a pressure tester, but I also seem to have a leak it the upper most part of the reservoir tank, so air escapes there...
![]() My next plan is to replace the fan switch gasket, but I figured while I have the radiator drained down, I'd add some stop leak when I refill it. Comment? Flames? Brand/type recommendations? Thanks
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'99 996 Arctic silver over black. In the past I've owned and wrenched on a '96 Audi A4, '86 944 NA. '79 928, '72 914. Non-Teutonic vehicles of interest: 3 MGB's (one converted to V8 power), Triumph Stag & TR250, Jensen-Healey, T-Bird SC. Most recent "project" was a Factory Five MKII Roadster. |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 117
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Unless you've cracked the rad, the leak has to be coming from one of the hoses or the switch gasket/washer.
After replacing my rad, I had a similar leak. After much frustration using up gaskets/washers and wondering what was going on, I found the clamp for the hose above the switch needed more tightening down than I'd given it. Needless to say I felt pretty stupid - things like this often turn out to be a lot simpler than you'd think. Stop leak isn't a real fix for your problem and will do bad things to your cooling system. Tighten your hose clamps, even if you think they're tight enough, before you do anything else.
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Warren '87 944S "Tubes sound better" |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 159
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I agree with using stop leak as a last resort if you are not going to keep the car very long.
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There is no mechanical task so great that brute force and ignorance cannot overcome |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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+^X3
If you look at the following picture, you should get the fan gasket and the small nipple gasket at the top. Do not overtighten either item or you will strip the threads. (If this happens, J-B Weld is your friend on the threads). ![]() GL John_AZ |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,695
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try putting some gasket maker as u make the seal. or use teflon tape
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 158
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I would agree with the above that you'll probably find an issue with the upper rad hose splitting, the hose clamp not being tight enough, or the gasket on the fan switch. If it does turn out to be the radiator, I wouldn't bother using any kind of stop leak product. It is not terribly likely to work for long (if at all) if the plastic end tank is cracking or pulling from the core. It is very likely to cause you other headaches. Just bite the bullet and replace the radiator (with used if need be) if it needs it.
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1987 951 - Stone Gray / Burgundy 15psi Guru Chips, Reliaboost, 3-bar FPR, KW Variant 3 Suspension, OE Euro Driving Lights, Iceshark Wiring Kit |
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Quote:
I suspect that +^X3 means that you concur with avoiding the stop leak, but what's it mean? Agree with the post above with 3x the emphasis? Thanks
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'99 996 Arctic silver over black. In the past I've owned and wrenched on a '96 Audi A4, '86 944 NA. '79 928, '72 914. Non-Teutonic vehicles of interest: 3 MGB's (one converted to V8 power), Triumph Stag & TR250, Jensen-Healey, T-Bird SC. Most recent "project" was a Factory Five MKII Roadster. |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 159
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Just don't use stop leak. I would replace a radiator before using that stuff. I have seen cases where it clogged the cores of the radiator causing overheating and head failure/warped block.
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There is no mechanical task so great that brute force and ignorance cannot overcome |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
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Quote:
![]() BTW the nipple gets brittle and cracks at the base of the threads. (quote) "I've tried a pressure tester, but I also seem to have a leak it the upper most part of the reservoir tank, so air escapes there..." -Steve812 A new tank and cap will be an easy fix. GL John_AZ |
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Redline Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,444
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I've noticed the main coolant hose clamps (especially the large one on the water pump) need to be tightened pretty much as tight as you can get them before the clamp strips. I have no idea why the hoses on these cars need to be so tight to not leak, but mine have leaked every single time I don't tighten the clamps to within an inch of their life. Use good OEM style clamps, not the cheap ones you get at Autozone. The OEM style clamps can hold alot more tension before they strip. The clamps Pelican sells are good.
Check if the seal between the plastic end tank and the aluminum core is leaking at all. They tend to seep with age. I had successfully stopped mine from leaking there by gently clamping down the tabs that hold those parts together with some vise grips.
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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky |
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Location: Warrenton, VA
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'Twas the top nipple it seems. I was able to snug it at least a half turn. No more wet spots!
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'99 996 Arctic silver over black. In the past I've owned and wrenched on a '96 Audi A4, '86 944 NA. '79 928, '72 914. Non-Teutonic vehicles of interest: 3 MGB's (one converted to V8 power), Triumph Stag & TR250, Jensen-Healey, T-Bird SC. Most recent "project" was a Factory Five MKII Roadster. |
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1995 993 C2 |
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