what else? won't start....
 

Okay let me start off by saying Hi, I just bought a 1983 944. Had some issues and I'm tackling them head on.

So I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail.

I changed:
- DME Relay
- Fuel Pump Fuse
- New fuel pump (later model - still might be the culprit)
- New vacuum lines (please check the picture and see if I put everything in right, I'd appreciate it lol)

The connection to the fuel pump in the back is not getting electricity. I checked it and the voltage meter reads 0. What could be causing this?

Here's a few pics.

My fuel pump in the back:
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSC01663.jpg
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSC01664.jpg

My next two problems:

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSC01663.jpg
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSC01664.jpg

First pic see if the vacuum line is correct there?
Second, i have no voltage after the brown cylinder, that's what might be causing the no voltage?

Heres a pic of the engine bay, please tell me if my vac lines are correct.

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSC01658.jpg

Im missing a vacuum canister as well, would that stop the engine from working?


Sorry about asking so many questions, I appreciate any responses.

Welcome, I'm relatively new myself but Clark's has provided me with a wealth of information:http://clarks-garage.com/
Check out engine troubleshooting in the garage shop manual

Here is the ignition troubleshooting from Pelican's site: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_ignition_trouble_list/mult_ignition_trouble_list.htm

Basically systematically test everything before playing the part dart game, that can get expensive!

Oh, and there should be a vacuum diagram in Clark's also.

I don't have any ignition problems, my coils are good, grounds are good. Im getting voltage to all plugs, injectors are fine, fuel rail is good. FPR is good.

Any real answers here?

What brown cylinder are you talking about?

Try and run the fuel pump directly off the battery to see if it works. If the pump is good, check for voltage at fuse #2 (fuel pump i think) with the ignition on. This way you can start isolating if the issue is before or after the fuse block. Just wondering, but are you checking for voltage at the pump when cranking the car over?

One thing i would try is bench testing the used fuel pump. They sometimes get gummed up after sitting, why it happens is beyond me but its not uncommon.

BTW, the car will run without the vacuum tank, just plug the line off otherwise you essentially have a huge vacuum leak.

Just an FYI, the 1983 fuse panel/relay board is not properly labeled in any manual I've ever seen. Even the factory service manual is wrong, but that's probably not your problem.

I don't have voltage at the rear connection to the fuel pump (green and brown wire). Would a regular fuse work from autozone for the #2 fuse for the fuel pump? I need to get voltage to the rear. I'm going to hotwire the fuel pump directly tommorow to see if i can get the car started. If i put fuel in from the intake the car will run for a second and then die. I don't want to just keep throwing money at it with no hope of it ever starting.

The brown cylinder I'm talking about is in picture number 4. I uploaded the same pics twice, changing that now...

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...ip187/th_5.jpg
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC01659-1.jpg

I think that's just an insulator or fusible link.

1) Pull the cover off your old relay (or new relay) and actually watch the relays close to verify the relay is operating correctly

2) Build yourself a DME Relay jumper per instructions in clarks-garage and install. If you still have no voltage at the pump you know it is a wiring problem. A not uncommon problem is loose/broken wires under the fuse box.

jmd_forest

The brown cylinder with green wire is for the O2 sensor. The extra 2pin connector with black and white wires tells me your car was originally from California because it has a heated O2 sensor.

The fuse for the fuel pump will be under the drivers side of the dashboard.

The actual power wire for the fuel pump is located above the brake booster, it is the multiple pin connector, not the two pin connector. I forget exactly which wire it is, but i am pretty sure its the thick red wire with black stripe. You can backprobe this wire and jump it directly off the battery to see if the fuel pump runs also, otherwise just run leads directly from the battery to the fuel pump.

Ya the car is from CA, I still gotta change the fuse, check the connections in my panel to see if anything is loose or broken. So the red with the black stripe is the fuel pump wire, gonna hot wire that see if I get connection to my pump.