944 Rear Hatch does not open.
 

I am having trouble opening the rear hatch on my 944. One side releases, the other doesn't.

Unscrew the latches from inside. This should relieve any pressure on the pins and let them go. Tweak their alignment until they release properly. 10mm nuts.

Give it a good could "jiggle" while you have the key in the unlock position and some upward pressure. This worked for me. I also adjusted my latches for easier opening. Then you get the "rattle" from the hatch. To get rid of the rattle I went to a hobby store and bought a rubber block that I trimmed down to the correct size and height and inserted it next to the latch. This fix helped two fold. It got rid of the rattle for good and it acts as a spring to help open the hatch once it is unlocked.

I recently did this. My problem was the molded insert in the latch had deteriorated. I searched and could not find a replacement insert and got a good used set-cold climate seller-of rear latches in EBay.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237472935.jpg

Climb in the rear hatch with a soft sweater. Loosen one side 2 10mm nuts. Grab latch and slightly twist while your shoulder gently lifts the hatch. When you do not feel a pinch on the hatch pin, tighten nuts. Note: on both of my cars the inner latch side is twisted in further than the outer. YMMV

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237473191.jpg

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

Thank you. The previous owner used a pair of pliers to jimmy it open. I tried what he did and no dice.

Followup: I forgot to add the latch "claws" need to be held open by hand to allow the hatch pin to go in and out when you gently lift with your shoulder. This will allow you to "center" the pin in the open "claws".

John_AZ

I had the linkage inside come apart, a c clip came off I think. I had to pull the levers from inside manually, I could do that because I have no interior.

Thanks guys, this was a quick fix and worked for me. Just climbed in the back and loosened nuts, gave it a jiggle and it self-centered on the pins.

I wish mine was that easy! I have to constantly adjust it every few weeks because they wander and let go of the pins.

Thanks, got the hatch open last night, it worked for about 6 open and closes and now it's stuck again. At least I know what to do now.

The retainer holding the control rods sometimes come off, resulting in a control rod or both falling off the lock assembly.

You need to use long thin pliers or fingers to get the rods back into their hole(s) and use friction retainers (avail. at your local auto parts guy, just show him the rods you need to retain) to hold them in place.

Any adjustments you want to make must be after these are fully connected. You will want to test the lock for orientation before you set them in place.

If your hatch doesn't spring up when unlocked, or when you use the electric release, you need to replace the hatch struts. It's the struts that cause the hatch to pop free. Using rubber stops is OK, but you're asking for exhaust to leak into the car when you open a window or your sunroof.

Mark

what are the claws
 

Been following your instructions but no luck yet… of course I am trying to get past a roll bar and two track tires…its not been a fun day. Got the bolts off the bottoms and have twisted them back and forth but the hatch won't open. Can you tell we what these claws are?

Thanks

In the first picture the "claws" in the center are closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252797887.jpg

In this picture I have opened the "claws" with the white lever.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252797951.jpg

Just loosen the nuts to be able to twist the whole retainer.
Crawl in the back, under the roll bar, using your finger to open the claws with the white lever and your shoulder gently pushing up on the hatch glass slightly to move the hatch pin up and down......you twist the retainer until the hatch pin does not bind.....and with your third hand.....tighten the nuts. Check...done.

GL
John_AZ

Gunk tends to build up in those. Take them out and give them a good soaking in cleaner, then lube 'em up really good.

Those rubber pieces on the bottom are junk and deteriorate all the time.

This is correct and when they deteriorate they catch the latch pin. The only solution I have found is to buy used whole receivers from sellers in the northern states with good rubber pieces.

The rubber part is NLA---Someone needs to manufacture this--please.

GL
John_AZ

Just to contribute: I started working on my '83 944 Lux that had been parked up for 10 years right by the sea on the English south coast. It has a hole by the battery (that old classic) that has filled the left footwell with water and destroyed the electrics, savage interior condensation has rusted most other stuff.

The hatch was seized as the latches and pins had rusted together. Got them apart in the end - not pleasant as the car was mould central. The plated pressed steel brackets that the latch assemblies bolt to had disintegrated, nothing much left on either side, so everything fell off when I finally freed it all up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252883648.jpg

I parted out a 924 and 944 last year so have loads of spare bits in stock. New pins, latches and rods, greased the lot and now works beautifully. A very gratifying job!

Wow that's really rough!

I'm still having the problem where my hatch eventually unlatches itself due to the road vibrations. The latches don't hold the pins perfectly anymore. The pins are slightly marred in shape due to use (the rim of the bulb on the end of the pin is no longer sharp), and the latches they latch onto are worn too. I keep having to adjust them occasionally. But, many times, I adjust them too far and then the hatch won't open at all.

this same thing just happened to me for the first time. I loaded up the car with chairs, canopy,ice chest, helmets, etc and went autocrossing. Got there and hatch wouldn't open. I couldn't unload the stuff to get inside because I have a rollcage and racing seats that don't move. After messing with it for about 30 min I was freaking out a little when another 944 owner walked over and told me to bang down with my hand on top of the rubber spoiler over the sticky latch....popped right open.
I felt stupid, I was about to do something drastic.

wow, john, i admire you for fixing the old rusty girl!! i live near missouir, and have never seen a latch so rusty!! good luck!

Every once in a while I spray the pin and in the pin whole with WD 40, wipe it down and spray a bit more on for lubrication. Keeps everything in working order and prevents any rust.

while you guys are on the topic of trunk latches, is the trunk supposed to pop open when you press the trunk release button? mine doesn't, so someone has to pull the trunk open while i hold the button down. the trunk shocks seem to be in good condition still. they hold the trunk up once it is open.

In the perfect situation, yes. But in reality, no.

When you push the button, it should loosen the latches so the trunk 'pops', but should require manual lifting for it to go up completely. Mine used to pop with the trunk release button and go up. but now, it just pops and I have to pull it up myself.

If it's not popping at all with the button, then you should adjust the release latches on both sides to allow it to do so (10mm wrench). This is an annoying procedure because it seems once you think you have it set and working, a week later, they seem to stop working correctly and you have to adjust them again.

You should be pleased your hatch shocks hold the hatch up. I carry a performance digitally calibrated and weighted ------PVC pipe.

Your shocks have the advantage of stopping the annoying hatch squeek. Many owners would pay for used shocks.

If you purchase new hatch shocks, you will possibly (almost certain) develop hatch glass to metal separation due to the increased shock pressure. This has been covered almost monthly.

Keep what you have.

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

NEW- Delrin Latch BUSHINGS
 

NEW
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...103_4521-1.jpg
Replacement Bushings Check this thread
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/601590-new-delrin-hatch-latch-bushings.html#post5949247
I am looking for some latches with no bushings to start an exchange process until I get my tooling dialed in.

Sweet!

I have a spare pair sitting around. I should get some of these!

Jackson

push down on the hatch when "unlocking" with a key if you're having problems with a side getting stuck. shifting the hatch side to side also seems to work

If anyone has an electric (late) style latch, be carefull when lubing up the linkages. Mine failed to work after oil had seeped into the microswitch. I had to ultrasonically clean the switch in order to get it to work again.

Experienced the hatch stuck in the closed position issue this week. This forum really helped.

Thought I would share how we aligned the locks after cleaning them. I stood outside of the car and my son got in the hatch area with a 10mm socket and ratchet. I pushed the hatch down until I felt spring-like resistance from the latches but NOT pushing the pins through the retaining clips. Holding in this position, my son tightened all four nuts from the inside. Worked just right the first time. I think that the pressure from the pins held the latches in the correct position.

One quick tip on Hatch latch
 

A Battery post brush/cleaner is perfect for cleaning out the claw area in the latches.