Yahoo! It's not the clutch!PICS

[ColoradoSteve]

I pulled the cap/cover off the front of the trans and found this broken piece of metal which I think is part of a clamping sleeve on the driveshaft?

I will have to have someone put the car in gear while I'm under to observe, but it looks like this is the problem, unless there are just random pieces of broken metal floating around.
Edit: Holy *****! The clutch sleeve is a $205. part!

[SolReaver]

"clamping collar" I broke one doing a clutch about a year ago. They are not very expensive. I might have a spare kicking around somewhere. I will look 4 it. To remove and replace you will probably have to unbolt the transmission. You MAY be able to slide it or tilt it in place, but I would have a transmission jack ready for the very real possibility that it will need to come down or out. Collars are made out of "white steel" and very brittle. The shift linkage will most likely need to be removed as well, not sure, I have never gone in for a clamping collar only.

OK, you dodged the bullet and dont HAVE to go into the clutch. However, you will be halfway there (or more) by the time you replace the collar. Here is where the WYAIT bug begins to gnaw at you. you will already have already done the ex and tx. It would be a great time to go into dropping the gas tank or putting in a new clutch.

Go to clarks step by step for the clutch replacement. Start hitting all the bolts with penetrating spray and assemble your tools.

[Marajit]

The transmission will have to come down.

Be very careful undoing the bolts that clamp the coupler lest you strip the heads.
Strip them and you'll be in for some interesting quality time under your car with a drill.

Also, the shifter link must also be undone.

Pay close attention when replacing the link because the bolt that holds it in place does NOT go all the way in but only rests against a dimple on the shaft.

Safety wire to secure.

[SolReaver]

OK, the linkage would have to come off if the transmission is coming down. The safety wire is on the transmission linkage bolt. Yes the bolt rests in the dimple on the linkage shaft. Over torquing it can lead to real problems. Clarks gives the details. Get a proper transmission jack. A regular floor jack doesn't really cut it.

Yea, now that I think about it....The transmission would have to come down. Rats. I was hoping there was a more "elegant" solution.

[ColoradoSteve]

I was hoping that this would be an easier repair than doing the whole clutch
I can't afford to have a shop do it, and I can't sell the car in this condition, so I guess I'm stuck. How much is a transmission jack? My other problem is that my garage is small and if the car is in there, no room to do anything else. I've got to have it clear because it's my workshop for the summer season. Also, another WYAIT, I need to re-index the torsion bars, what fun! Thanks, Al, Marajit, and everyone for your support, I got a feeling I'm going to be needing a lot more!

[SolReaver]

Well, I am assuming you will go for the clutch WYAIT. A trans jack goes for 50 to a few bills. Figure about a grand in parts by the time you are done with the clutch. The collar can be had for pretty cheap used. If you haven't done the job before figure 40 hrs or more in labor before you are driving away. No use crying over spilled milk, get in there and pull that puppy DOWN!

BTW, Once you start taking it apart, be committed to getting it done. A disabled 944 is worth little, but a disassembled one is worth next to nothing. Get some GOOD jackstands and ramps and get busy. These things don't fix themselves and the Porsche repair Gnomes don't come in the middle of the night. (I keep leaving out milk and cookies...but...noooo)

[ColoradoSteve]

Maybe the Porsche gnomes will come if I leave some beer and pretzels out...they are Germans, right? Purchased a trans jack today and still have to do some major clean up in the garage. Hope to get started on Wed.

[SolReaver]

Beer works. The Gnomes are from all over, I could swear one of em was a Leprechaun on an exchange program. Look up my thread "clutch Happiness" I document the whole process and give a few tips at the end. You may want to notch the bell housing. I did. Cleaning and organization are key. To speed things along you can have a helper dedicated to cleaning, labeling, bagging, and reading the next step. Soften everything with penetrating fluid. I needed a propane torch for the ex bolts and for the clutch pivot shaft. Go to Clarks and print out the step by step. Understand that clarks is not perfect, but it is pretty good.

Safety first. jackstands and ramps if you can manage it. Always good to have an old rim or two under there with you.

[John_AZ]

Steve,
Sol has provided sound information on your coupler and procedure.

Your mention of reindexing the torsion bars may be a bigger WYAIT. The weather after Wed. is going to get real bad and you may have to attempt the reindex a couple of times.
I found this procedure:
http://members.rennlist.com/m758/TbarReindex.htm

From past posts, it is a big job.
GL

John_AZ

[SolReaver]

re indexing th torsion bars? In ADDITION to a transmission drop and a clutch job? Wow! I appreciate your dedication there.....But, Due to the time constraints and facilities that you mentioned earlier...ya might wanna let it go a bit more on this one and wait for better weather. Once the tranny is out it IS a great time to drop the tank and replace the lines that you can't get to any other way, but, that in itself is an all day event of cleaning and inspecting and repainting. Plus the turn around of Pressure testing the tank by a pro. BTW, did you know those things are "glued" in there? I didn't. I was wondering why it wouldn't drop for hours. IF the clutch works and has plenty o meat on it, you could even skip that for brevities sake and work what you have until you get a good spot and a months worth of weekends for the job.

Oh, It isn't exactly "professional" But, take out the spare tire in the well and be prepared to "dimple" the metal behind the transmission. There is not a whole lot of room back there and some bumping or bending may occur. The metal can be pried back into shape with a good 2 by 4 as a lever. When you disconnect the CVs...Wrap them in strong foil and then bag them securely to keep the dirt out. I would clean and repack while you are there. Tie them up Wayy out of the way and be prepared to move them around for various stages of down, tilt, down process. Replace the CV bolts if they look even a bit bugered and make sure all the dogs ears are there. This is also a good time to replace bad CVs.

OK, you don't have to take the tranny completely out, just down about a foot to slide off the old collar and slide a new one in. There is some talk about balancing and keeping marks in line. Ignore it. Just put the new one on. Then without going into the TT, you can put the tranny back up and get her back on the road. I am still not sure how far the shift tube needs to come forward, but I am pretty sure you have disconnect if from both ends and slide it up at least 6" or so. Soapy water or cheap hair gel helps things slide against that blasted grippy foam.

Your car...your call...the TT diconnect and going into the clutch will add 10 to 15 hours. Hec, I spent 2 hours cleaning and waking the flywheel bolts. Yes, I felt stupid doing it...But 8 o 9 came out beauty and the last one (there is always one) needed a warming and waking to come out alive. (OK, I let it sit overnight to "think" about it) BTW, how much meat IS on the clutch?

Anybody else notice that these cars essentially need to be rebuilt every so often? I swear that There is no nook or cranny that I have not been into in getting things right....OK, EXCEPT for dropping my rear suspension to re index. Shhhh...Don't tell my car it is even a possibility, I don't want to give it any ideas.

[ColoradoSteve]

The car is off the ground and I checked the inspection port at the slave cylinder. Looks like I've got about 30 t0 32mm so it's close. Also looks like a brand new starter , nice surprise. John, you are right about the weather, I got it inside just in time. I did install coilovers recently and the car rides great, but the darn things squeak, so that's why I wanted to do the torsion bars. Considering the amount of time and effort, however, I may just have to live with it for a while.
The clutch will have to be done at a later date as well, most of the driving I do is not hard on clutches, I hope to get a few more miles on this one.My plan is to drop the trans and replace the coupler ( Al, do you know where I can find one?) then clean and repack the CVs. That should get me back on the road. Thanks for all the help, guys!

[rickharrison]

You don't need a tranny jack if you have a nice newer floor jack.

When I took my transaxle out, I used the floor jack.

On my jack, the jacking plate has a "cup" there, which is able to be removed...IIRC its held on with a pin. Remove that, there's a hole 3/8 - 1/2 in the base of the jacking plate/surface. Then I had some threaded rod (actually a long deck bolt I cut the ends off of), bolted that from under, then drilled a hold thru 2 - 2x4's about 12 inches long. This allowed approx 1-2 inches of the threaded rod to poke thru the 2x4's. This rod sticking out will fit into the underside of the transaxle...there's a tranny jack mounting point in the middle. Position the floor jack/ 2x4 under and allow the rod to go into the hole, the 2x4's will line up length-wise along the bottom for weight distribution. It will balance the transaxle fine for 1 handed removal.

I've also heard that undoing the crossmemeber bolts are easier to lower the transaxle than trying to get at the trans mount bolts...someone chime in here...

Have fun!

[SolReaver]

Rick: Good idea if it works. My problem was not in removal. The problem I had was with installation. I never knew there was a tranny jack mounting point in the middle of the transaxle. Why can't these little tidbits be added to "clarks" It is all so static over there. Gota go out to work on the 928 and look through old bits and pieces left over fro old jobs.

[rickharrison]

Yeah Sol...I found it after I had removed the old tranny. I tell you balancing it on the jack without it whilst removing it was a real pain in the ass. Very awkward.

[SolReaver]

Removal is a breeze, It was the tilting, twisting while raising it in place for the mounts. AND YEA, Balancing it on a jack is a real pain...and dangerous too! I would have been sunk without a transmission jack. What about the straps to keep it flopping off? Oh well..STEVE! let us know which is best. a modded floor jack or a proper transmission jack. You have both and I currently have niether. So I will leave you to decide. I gotta gl look through junk.

[ColoradoSteve]

Well, I wish my only problem was deciding which jack to use! I cannot get the stupid 8mm allen bolt to break loose on the collar( heated it with the torch, sprayed it with blaster, nothing worked) and now I've stripped it! Why the geniuses who designed this car couldn't have used a regular bolt is beyond understanding. Also, the forward allen bolt on the collar is inaccessible through the little hole because the whole thing must have vibrated forward on the shaft. Taking a break and then I guess I'll have to start drilling, dunno what else to do.

[SolReaver]

Buddy I hear ya...These things test and torture a man's soul. They vex and tease and frustrate so much you would swear that they are alive. I walked away when I got frustrated. ALso I had to, for sanitys sake, limit my groveling to about an hour of screaming. If my blood pressure started to ring bells...Time to take a break.

Why use 8mm Allens....Dunno for sure...If it really bugs you you can replace them with whatever you want...Hec, put triple squares in there if it makes ya happy.

I think it is so that for speed, you just drill them out. Screw removing them alive. Drill the puppies with a bit just bigger than the threads. I replace the hex bolts on them anyway. Get a lefty drill bit so that if it does bite, it removes the bolt and go to town.

OK, I have yet to find the spare collar, you might want to try ebay or a WTB in the parts section here or something. I MIGHT be able to locate it, BUt I don't want to hold you up. they go from 10 to 40 bucks and I think they are pretty common.

I went under my car and sure enough...there is a place for a little stud to go into the transmission! it is about the diameter of a 3/8 ths adapter and about a half inch long. If you could set up something like rick describes, It may work beauty.

I only wish there was an equivalent point on the transmission of the 928 I have ta pull to get at the Torque tube.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by Marajit

The transmission will have to come down.

Be very careful undoing the bolts that clamp the coupler lest you strip the heads.
Strip them and you'll be in for some interesting quality time under your car with a drill..

This man is psychic.

You must have high quality hex. Also the bolt on the TT side is deep in the TT housing. You have to use a universal joint or a 1/4 inch extension to hex at the bolt to get a "true" straight in grip. If you use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch extension, the bolt is off center to the hex. Also center the extension in the center of the opening. Off center will increase bad grip. The transaxle side is straight in.

GL
John_AZ

[ColoradoSteve]

I just spent 3 hours trying to drill a hole in the 8mm Allen bolt that I stripped, broke 4 drill bits and managed to get about 1/8 of an inch hole, not enough for a bolt extractor. Saved me a trip to the gym, though. I think the Porsche engineers figured that if the head of the bolt was easily stripped and drilling through the hardened steel was tough enough, we'd all give up and go out and by a new Boxter.
John, I was thinking about Marajit's words as I pushed as hard as I could and stripped the head. But I also figured I had nothing to lose, 'cause that sucker wasn't coming out anyway. I bought a very expensive set of hex wrenches last year and I don't think they make one that could remove this bolt without stripping it. So I just spent $50. on titanium drill bits ( reverse ) and I'm hoping I can get a deep enough hole to fit an extractor into. Now if I break the extractor in the hole, I may tow the car off the nearest cliff and live happily ever after with my '83 n/a. ( Which is running great , by the way...)
Al, thanks for looking , there is a complete torque tube on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-944-951-Turbo-Torque-Tube_W0QQitemZ300289077368QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item30028907736 8&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116#ebayphotohosting
I'm tempted since the only other thing I've found http://www.***********.net/action.lasso?-database=AAdatabase&-layout=Items&-response=results.lasso&-operator=eq&partnumber2=922%20421%20051%2002%20&-maxrecords=10&-search
is $125. just for the sleeve!
What separates us 944 owners from the rest is our stubbornness and I am determined to see this job through if it costs me all the skin on my knuckles!! Thanks again, guys, for all your support!

[John_AZ]

Steve,

Sorry to read more continued agony. The bolt may be further pinched by the coupler brakeup.

NOTE: DELETED SUGGESTION TO USE TRIPLE SQ=MAY damage transaxle unless back of coupler is braced. Do not attempt this.

Post a WTB on the Pelican Parts site:
I have seen the couplers sell for under $50.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-used-parts-sale-wanted/

GL
John_AZ