Help with 1988 924S radiator removal

[campijr]

Hi Guys, I was wondering how hard it is to remove the radiator because my fan switch is leaking I believe. Could somebody help me with the steps?

Thanks
Bob

[John_AZ]

Hi Bob,

You can get real good info at:
www.clarks-garage.com and specifically:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-04.htm

Carefully tighten or replace the seal on the small top nipple. This is where it will leak in the future.
If you strip the threads on the temp sensor-JB weld is your friend.



Since you will be draining the coolant, check to see if you need a new heater control valve. If you see any white deposits on the valve, it may be dripping on the clutch and this is bad.

Of course this is a good time to change your T Stat as well and maybe the hoses.

Very easy.

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S
1979 924 + 1977.5 924 + 1970 914 1.7 +++===gone, past tutors

[jackrussell]

I recently found a product which I prefer to JBW. It's Loctite Weld Bonding Compound.
Seems to be easier to apply and not as brittle. Just give it time to cure.

[x030399]

1984 1944

Bob, I had the exact same problem with coolant leaking from the thermofan switch. Tried several "patches", but ultimately, the plastic threads were stripped and I decided to replace the radiator. I was afraid, but it's not that difficult to remove the rad. The worst part of it is draining the coolant b/c it makes such a mess.

The rad comes out the bottom.

Put the front wheels on ramps, or jack stands.

- Drain the radiator via the drain plug lower driver's side (take off cap from expansion tank to allow free-flow)

- Unclip the rad fan plugs and push/tie out of the way.

- Unbolt and remove the mounting bracket that holds the air filter snug

- Unbolt the radiator fan shroud assembly, 3 bolts at the top, and 3 on the bottom. The top ones are a little hard to see, but you should be able to figure it out.

- Disconnect the upper & lower rad hoses, and the hose that connects from the xpansion tank (might be easier to get to if you do the step below first)

- From the top unbolt the rubber damper radiator mounting bolts.

From there, the radiator just tilts and tips out.

In Haynesian language, installation is the reverse of removal.

Bleeding the air out after you put the new one in is a *****. Prolly best to get one of those pressure-tester things, otherwise, dump the air, drive, dump air, drive, etc., and repeat many times until you get a stable temp.

Good luck!

[jackrussell]

Very good advice! I'm not sure the 924S is same as 944.
I recently removed the radiator on my '83 944 using this same procedure. I found a local industrial radiator shop who replaced the one plastic tank with stripped threads for about $130.
Bleeding was fairly simple. Turn heater lever to heat so water will flow thru heater. Start engine, add coolant, keep coolant to fill line in reservoir, open bleeder valve at top of block at upper radiator hose, keep engine running till steam and finally bubbles come out of bleeder, close bleeder when steady stream of coolant flows out. Be sure to watch temp gauge. If everything is ok, you're ok.

[SolReaver]

Get a new drain plug. They are cheap and always need replacing. I have used cold bond to good effect YMMV. Take the vent tube off of the overflow and stick it in the drain plug hole after you take out the drain plug. If you are quick you can drain most of the fluid with the tube into bottles or something and it makes no mess at all.