Removed the clutch and look what I found...

[shogunther]

How can I tell if this clutch is still good? The rubber looks in excellent condition. Look at the pictures...what do you think? Should I replace it? I also found out why the engine spewing out oil...the PO never installed the rear main seal

[mikepellegrini]

That's insane! How on earth could the guy forget to install the RMS? Incredible!

If the clutch disc wasn't saturated with oil (which would be a problem) then you gotta go by the thickness.

I don't know what the minimum thickness should be. You can see the rivets are still pretty deep offset, so that's certainly a good sign.

I'd call Pelican or 944Online and ask them if they could measure a new disc to compare. Or maybe better yet,, ask them how deep the rivets are offset on a new disc - then you could estimate how much wear you have left (if for example, the rivets are offset 10mm deep on a new disc and your rivets are 5mm, then you'd (in theory) have 50% life left.

If the thickness was marginal, I'd get anew one - clutches are a real PITA and I'd hate to go back in anytime soon.

You oughta get the flywheel turned and clean up the pressure plate. Make sure the throwout bearing is good.

[WaA420]

That disk is GARBAGE. Just look at it closely and you'll see that it is a time bomb.

[bazar01]

The clutch material has a lot left but the rubber damper is questionable. Even if it's still good, just go ahead and replace it. Rubber centered or spring centered, new clutch is the best way to go. Do you want to do this again?

[1985porsche944]

I would replace it just so you don't have to go through it all again. Just wondering since I am doing a clutch job on my 44. Also how long has it taken you to get to where you are now?

[rickharrison]

Replace it while its out with a spring centred one.

[many944s]

^ +100!
You can go the cheap route, install a rear main seal and a spring centered friction disk (assuming the TOB and PP look ok). Total damage to the pocketbook: $225.

The last thing you want to do is put a rubber centered FD back inside there! You would probably end up re-doing the whole job in a year or so!

-Nick

[CJFusco]

If there is any question about replacement - and you already have the entire assembly taken apart - you should ABSOLUTELY replace the clutch disk.

[John_AZ]

You can repack the TO, polish the PP-check fingers for TO wear grooves, get a cheap disc ($160 to $200) and RESURFACE the flywheel ($40-$50). Replace the pilot bearing, clutch fork bearings, and of course RMS. Change the transaxle fluid to Redline-MT90 or buy Swepco from our sponsor-Pelican. Your shifts will sooooo smooth!

FYI


GL
John_AZ

[SolReaver]

such fun! Why there is no RMS...THAT is a good one. It is amazing to think that the car dove that way. wouldn't it loose A LOT of oli?

OK, loose the Hockey puck. It is an interesting example of engineered obsolescence. The PP looks like it can be machined and re used...your call, Never re use the TB (duh), Other than that most of what is in there is toast unless the same PO who forgot the seal replaced it.

[Razorback1980]

I wouldn't put a rubber center clutch disk back in there either. I would get the spring centered disk if I could possibly afford it; and replace the throw out bearing at the same time. Oh...and don't forget to put a new rear main seal in there. John_AZ had a good post on how to install the rear main seal a couple weeks back. Do a search and you'll find it.

[onZedge]

The disk is "Waiting To Explode". The rivets holding the rubber are barely doing so.

(There's gotta be a "used condom" joke in here somewhere...)

[matthewb]

I wonder how long the previous owner drove the car that way. Seems like he must have been doing something in there if he didn't put the seal back in. Was something else replaced in there?

[shogunther]

Originally Posted by 1985porsche944

I would replace it just so you don't have to go through it all again. Just wondering since I am doing a clutch job on my 44. Also how long has it taken you to get to where you are now?

It took me two days to get to where I am at (about 10-12 hrs, I took alot of breaks) This is my first 944 so I had to figure a few things out on my own. Just let me know if you have any questions or need help.

[1985porsche944]

Wellif you were able to come to my house and help me out that would be nice but I don't see that happening since you probably don't live in N Va. But I would like to know how you take out the shifter lever that conntects to the shifter and then the parts in the rear that select the gears. Or does it come out with the transmission without disconect.

[shogunther]

Originally Posted by matthewb

I wonder how long the previous owner drove the car that way. Seems like he must have been doing something in there if he didn't put the seal back in. Was something else replaced in there?

I know the PO replaced the head on the engine....I think he also replaced seals or rebuilt the engine b/c it looks really clean and I can see the red gasket stuff all over the engine.

[SolReaver]

Ok, doing the clutch is as you already know a major pain. Check out Clarks garage for details on the procedure. Clarks is not perfect, but it is pretty darn good. The shift linkage is disconnected at both ends and then twisted down and pushed forward. soapy water helps stuff slide along without ripping the foam.

[CJFusco]

Wait, the car was being driven without a rear main seal?! I honestly don't even think that's possible.

[Razorback1980]

It's very possible. It will just have a big oil leak there.

[SolReaver]

Lemme get this straight...someone separated the bell housing and put it back together with that POS hockey puck and forgot the RMS? What is the history on the car? I don't think the clutch would be so clean with the RMS missing and the car would prob not be drivable. Did it run? did it leak oil? What is the REST of the story?