Ok so you had the intake out when you unplugged all the components. I was wondering how to get to the harness under the intake.

I'll try snaking out the DME plug and harness thru the firewall first. If it gets tricky, I'll try your suggestion. Thanks.

The trick for snaking out the dme harness (through the firewall) is to get the engine completely loose, then drop it down about 4 to 6 inches, then you have enough access at the firewall to get good leverage on the harness.

There should be a foam block on the inside; removing that will give you pretty good view of what has to go through that hole.

Like I said before, it helps to have someone on the inside to help get the various connectors through, starting with the smallest first.

Engine is out!
Just disconnected the harness on the engine side. Not too bad.
The lift was very kind to my back and knees.
Time for the timing belts, clutch, rod bearings and oil pan gasket job.

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if i was yer neighbor, i'd be SOOOOOO jealous :)

It's now on the engine stand and ready for the surgery. :D

Any tips on installing a new oil pan gasket. Do I need some kind of an adhesive that is oil resistant for a long lasting leak proof install?


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Decided to do more than I had planned.
Will replace head gasket and do a valve job

Here are a few pics.


Old head gasket:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1248108453.jpg

Not too bad for 230k miles:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1248108547.jpg

Cleaned piston tops:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1248108615.jpg

Cleaned up cyl head and valve grind:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1248108686.jpg

Getting ready to put it all back together in two weeks.
Hope everything goes smooth.

Engine and transaxle back in.

New Clutch
Headgasket
Valve job
New cam chain
New rod bearings
Oil pan gasket
AOS seals
New coolant hoses
Cam pulley housing & hall sensor
exhaust heat wrap
cam and balance belts
tensioner roller
balance shaft seals and housing o-rings
balance shaft housing rear o-rings
Rear main seal

I just need to finish up the electrical connectors and intake manifold.
Son is getting sick of driving the 91 accord he wanted to finish this up. LOL



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I'm going to do my rod bearing later this year. Did you use the aftermarket Glyco ones, and did you check the clearance with plastigauge? Were they a tight fit?

Hi Eric, how did the TT rebuild go? Did you use the delrin sleeves? I was the one that supplied the delrin sleeves CAD drawings for Clarks-Garage. I also used the regular C3 bearings with rubber seals. So far it's still holding up when I checked the TT bearings. There is a slit in the TT in the front section close to the bellhousing. Make sure you seal that with RTV and aluminum tape. It will help prolong the bearing life. It's been 100k miles since the TT rebuild.

As far as rod bearings, you'll be surprised with the little wear on the rod bearings. I was going to replace both the rod and main, but as soon as I saw the rod bearing condition, I decided to just check the axial play on the main and just left it alone.
I plastigaged the original 240k mile rod bearings and they showed minimal wear, but I still went ahead and replaced them with the Glyco ones. I may have pics of the originals.

Pis of original rod bearings at 240k miles and no copper showing. I would have left it alone but it was the reason for the engine drop so I just replaced them.


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Making progress but very slowly.
Got all the wires routed as well as vacuum lines.
Next will be the alternator then the intake goes in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250892555.jpg

I'm sooo jealous!...of that lift...of that motor...those cylinder walls...those bearings!!!:eek:

I'm in the middle of much the same thing and have had nothing but crap the whole way so far. (those pics are positive proof that there is hope for finding a short block that doesn't look like the things been through the wars!) Glad it's going smoothly. SmileWavy

maybe by some chance of luck, someone out there might want to offload a S2 motor for $300. Yeah right...

Yes, I used the Delrin sleeves using the Clark's/your drawing. The sleeves worked pretty well, although at first I thought they were too loose (before they were installed in the bearing). Once installed in the bearing the fit was about right. I used the C4 bearings in mine. Rebuilding the TT was a real pain. My carriers were riveted too, so I had that to contend with. I used a large 65x65x5mm square washer with the corners ground off in order to push against the carrier itself as I was worried about damaging the bushings. Then installing the shaft after all the bearings were installed was also a bit of a challenge - I used a scissor jack and lengths of timber spacers to push it back in. I also used rivets through the tt wall to make sure the carriers didn't slip down when installing the shaft. And, yes, I taped up the slit. TT rebuild took 9 hours - not including painting, removal and installation.

I was actually asking if you plastigauged the new bearings, as I have heard that the Glyco ones can be a bit tight.

Yes i plastigaged the Glyco. It was around 0.0015" and I can spin the crank by hand without any binding. The original ones were around 0.002".
Hope that helps.

I have been working on this S2 for a while using jack stands when i was a little younger. I felt i needed to start looking for a lift to protect my back and shoulders.
The 2 post lift is the way to go. You can work from above or below with the flick of a switch. Very convenient. In fact, I have a 5-speed 96 BMW 318ti waiting for an engine transplant. I bought the car for $65 + towing with a blown engine. I found a $900 engine shipped. Another project to keep me sane for another month or two.. The lift already paid for itself with these two projects

These S2 engines are getting expensive to get even used. It needs lots of attention too with the belts and cam chain. If you don't have time to work on it, you'll get sick of it, not to mention the 951. I doubt you can get a $300 short block if not trashed. If this engine goes, i'll look for a 968.

pics of Bimmer anyway:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250931648.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250932398.jpg

$65!!!!

How did you get a car like that so cheap?!

At the dealership, owner wanted to junk it because dealership quoted him $6k to replace engine. Talked to the owner and told me just to pay $65 towing paid by dealer and I can have it.

There are two more abandoned vehicles sitting there but this was the nicest one. Coupe, sunroof, 5-speed and black leather.
I may go back next time when I'm done with this 318ti.

Got up early and finished up the alternator, intake, exhaust and CV axles.
The lift really helped a lot as far as working under the intake manifold.
Still a lot to do.
Fuel rail and Injectors
power steering
AFM
radiator and fans
Coolant and bleeding
Engine oil pressurization

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Make sure you check the knock sensors. Mine looked fine, except upon removal of the insulation near the boot at the plug which was cracked, I found that the insulation of the two wires had split and the sensor was "shorting" to either each other or the ground shield. Did a temp fix on the wires and now have more power, as the ignition was being retarded by 6 degrees previoulsy.

Ooops too late for that. I'll check it at the DME plug. If there is an open or short condition, I have no choice but to take the intake out.
I was very careful with the wire bundle as they are very brittle. I was more worried of the oil pressure sensor and oil level switch wires when I snake them thru the PS pump bracket. I will fill it with oil tomorrow and crank it up and see if it will develop oil pressure.
Thanks for the tip Eric.