fwiw, I believe to stay in a stock class you can only interchange parts that were offered for YOUR SPECIFIC car's year/model.. Meaning if M030 was an option for your year car you can add those, if not, than you can not add those bigger bars and still be stock. Same for koni suspension, etc.

Of course your local region may have different rules.


Also, I have autocrossed my car a few times, its an 81 931. I have 250# springs, stock shocks, lowered rear and 17" wheels with 205/255 combo. No rear sway bar, and it also pushes like a mo fo. I just added a 19mm rear with the stock front bar. Also going to add some negative camber in the front as I'm sure that would help.

Sorry I ruffled your feathers , i only had stated that i agreed with you on that some of the advice that one can get on these forums is sometimes BAD advice and that taking one persons take on something as LAW is foolish .

I also agree with the 15 wheel selection , as 16s and larger carry to much mass for the 150 HP na to drive . The trade offs aren't beneficial enough to run the big wheel tire combo . 710 s are a great choice with great grip as they seem to heat cycle out , before they wear out . A6s are awesome , and the 44 seems to enjoy the 45 profile more than the 50 series of the Kumhos , but they wear out twice as fast . If money is no object , Hoosiers all day .

Now i disagree with you, as i gave the OP the the best advice any one could give him , which is seat time , seat time , and more seat time . That will improve his times more than anything you could do to the car .

Now we all understand that the more front bar will induce more under-steer . You had stated in an earlier post that you would put on a smaller front sway to help with the big push . With factory spring rates of around 130 # , you are gonna want all the front bar you can get , as well as if the OP is running SCCA , dampers and a front bar is all he can change . One can work around this by freeing up the car in other ways ..... Yeah , I'm all for a larger sway on the rear if allowable , but in the OP's earlier post he stated he didn't even know how the car was equiped as far as sways go . Installing a 19 mm bar in the rear on a car with anything less than a 25.5 would be sketchy at best . She'll turn all right , and keep turning . 25.5 18 works well and 26.8 19 work well . The front Welt and Tarret bars will work that i have been told , but i have no experience with either of the hi dollar units . I'm not quite sure where you got or you could get a 24mm or 26 mm rear sway from , maybe you were thinking of a 40 / 60 rear engine Porsche s ?.

As far as for alignment #s , the pyrometer tells all . At the -1.5 that you stated , the shoulders of the tires will suffer and overheat . -2 to - 2.8 is more in the ballpark for a stock sprung , stock a-arm car and will have even tire temps . -3 is pushing it . I would Max out the caster as well for stability .

Now , i learned at an early age that FWD sucks , ( My beloved Big-Wheel trike with the uber cool ebrake that when applying power to the pedals , would not steer ) and i have never set up a FWD , But Toe out will help with turn - in on a RWD . Out 1/8 to 3/16 but beware that toe will eat tires so learn to read a tape measure , to make race day adjustments .

These cars have alot of throttle induced oversteer with the geometry changes in the rear with unloading and braking of the chassis , and you can use that to an advantage in auto X . Be brave , and try 0 toe out in the rear . I run just a smidge out in the rear at 1/8 tank of fuel and it sits at 0 with 1/2 tank for auto x and the car WILL TURN . Brake very early and strait and turn with the throttle . About -2 camber is acceptable , any more and its rear tire roasting city . On the track , rear toe in 1/8 .

I'm gonna go back to my NOTHING , cause I have NOTHING and disregard all of this mumbo jumbo , as its most likely that bad advice i was talking about . Actually I'm gonna go back out to the shop and finish installing my new Godspeed Radiator (OMG its beautiful , i almost hate to hide it under the hood ) and Stewart water pump in the M3 . Gotta get here done , so i can get the Camaro back in .

Good Luck Guys ! See ya in Lincoln SmileWavy

No attacks here at all . Sorry you both saw it as an attack , I was just trying to help . I suppose my first post was off the mark and i apologize and i should have just come out with my disagreements .

Also , some more advice . Just cause someones post count is low , doesn't mean they don't know doodle . I would much rather trust someone with a lower post count who has been a member for some length of time over someone who has 10000 posts in a year . If they post , its usually worth while . I don't play here , usually only in the classifieds and the BMW side . I was looking for a member for some Micro Squirt base maps and stumbled on this thread .

Sorry again , and I'll go back to my Bubble

Well, glad we got that all taken care of. Groupe hug. AND Now! Back to our normal programing. btw great thread, plenty of good stuff here.

Oh on a random side note I have decided to hold off on tires for a few more events. I am still going to do an alignment but I need to put the tire money elsewhere at the moment.

Ok so the alignment and bar helped tons. Went out the the night before and helped layout the track so I got even more seat time. Once or twice it tryed to come all the way around but overall it was good. Held pretty nicely on the 100' radius skid pad we set up. Oh RS seat time helped but the front end going where I wanted it too instead of plowing forwards helped even more.

Looks like due to a friend of a friend deal I am going to be running on some RA-1s 205 50 15....


Any changes need made to that alignment. Some odd wear on my street tires won't bother me...