RazorBack, I haven't drained the oil, yet (the head work isn't finished). We are going to drain it and check tomorrow, then resort to the magnet if we don't see anything. Thanks for the tip on the t-shirt. You mean to strain the oil through it, right?

After the old oil is out (and, I hope, we've found the tooth) my mechanic suggested throwing some non-synthetic in there and running it for an hour, then draining again. It's been sitting for about two months semi-open (without its cam cover) and he thought that would be prudent.

Does anyone disagree?

Thanks, again for your help, everyone!

Yes, I would strain the oil through the shirt so any metal parts will show up in the shirt. Then you won't have to go looking for it. Good decision on your part not to drain the oil yet. I often use diesel fuel to wash my engines out if they are apart and I can get it all out, then change the oil pretty quick after I get it going and I use cheaper oil as your mechanic suggested. The key is to find that tooth...Good luck.

If you don't find it, then the headwork may be wasted if the tooth jams up something expensive.

Good hunting!

edit...did the shop doing the head find anything?

Rick, I'll find out, tomorrow! *fingers crossed*

The new cams went in, today.

Mind explaining what steps you took to put the cams back in? I'm struggling to understand the workshop manual instructions because it tells you to put the engine at 45 degrees before TDC but the pictures make it look like the cams go in aligned at TDC.

When the cam teeth broke in my S2, there were bits of teeth in the oil and stuck to the magnet. I'd be surprised if it wasn't in the sump. Once it's in the sump it will eventually make contact with the magnet. I can't see where else it would possibly go - it can't get back into the oil circulation system - it's not going to float and it can't get through the pickup screen.

The mechanic didn't bother matching all the bits when mine broke - if it's not in the cam housing and not in the sump then where else could it be - and furthermore how could you ever find it.

So I wouldn't panic if I were you.

Karl, I wish I could, but that was a job I delegated happily to my mechanic. I read the shop manual on it, too, and was likely as confused as you are.

Eric: thanks for the reassurance. I take it that your engine worked fine after reassembly?

It worked perfectly - the broken tooth was picked up during an oil change - the belts never skipped or broke. Both cams had to be replaced - and the new ones cost AU$950 each + new tensioner +++ etc. The engine only has 120,000 km on it at the time. It was about a $3,500 repair bill IIRC.