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Runs but no go??

I recently bought a 85a 44 that sat a long time and managed to get it running good but it will not move. Everything underneath looks intact and it shifts fine but it seems the engine is not getting to the tranny. I've looked up things about the torque tube and shaft but I'm at a loss so far. Can anyone out there give me some things to check????
Old 08-30-2009, 05:29 AM
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Looks like somebody was about to change the clutch. I looked over the starter and the 4 bolts attaching the torque tube are gone. Any ideas on what to do next??????????? I'm gong to take the starter down and the slave cyclinder.
Old 08-30-2009, 06:41 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Does the clutch work?

And with the engine off and the car in 4th gear, can you push the car and turn the engine over? Even rocking it back and forth?

The torque tube is basically a solid metal rod - it won't fail (okay, the bearings will go out, but it'd still put power to the back wheels - it'd just be noisy).

If you have the car in gear and the car isn't moving, then it's either the clutch or the torque tube coupling sleeve that's screwed up.

Does the engine die when you let the clutch out in gear? Or does it keep going, but nothing happens? If the engine died when you let the clutch out, then maybe the transaxle or TT bearings are frozen.

You can check the clutch easy enough. With the car up on jack stands, look in the inspection port on the bottom of the bellhousing (by the starter) and have someone depress the clutch. You should be able to see the shaft move out from the slave cylinder (moving the clutch fork). If it doesn't move, then you've got a hydraulic problem (slave, master or the line inbetween - or it could simply be the fluid level).

If the shaft does move but the clutch isn't working, then maybe there's an internal problem with the clutch.

You can check the drive shaft coupling sleeve - there are inspection ports in the transaxle bellhousing.

NOTE: if the car was in storage for a long time, you should probably change the timing and balance shaft belts ASAP before you run it. The 944 has an interference engine - if the timing belt breaks, it'll cause a lot of damage - valves hitting pistons and so on.

Here's the url for Clark's Garage - they have an excellent repair manual online that's really helpful: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/repair-procedure-index3.htm

Lots of luck!
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l.groves View Post
Looks like somebody was about to change the clutch. I looked over the starter and the 4 bolts attaching the torque tube are gone. Any ideas on what to do next??????????? I'm gong to take the starter down and the slave cyclinder.
Maybe the clutch went out and that's why they parked it?
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:47 AM
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It runs and you can change the gears while it is running but it does not move. I just installed the master and slave yesterday and the clutch lever is working correctly. I'm pretty sure the drive shaft is dissengaged but I don't know how to check it. Is there a bolt access near the front of the shaft that I can check?? I have the manuals but it is pretty vauge in this area.
Old 08-30-2009, 06:52 AM
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On the transaxle bellhousing are two large rubber plugs - one at each end of the drive shaft clamping sleeve. It couples the drive shaft to the input shaft on the transaxle. There's a allen head bolt in each end of the sleeve.
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:12 AM
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It doesn't look like the transaxle was touched. I'll check to be sure. Is there a connection for the shaft by the clutch that I can check? I've got the manuals and the parts catalog but I cant find a good illustration of the schaft connections..
Old 08-30-2009, 07:15 AM
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Sorry I thought the transaxle was the transmission. My bad as they say...
Old 08-30-2009, 07:18 AM
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Thanks Mike for the clarks connection looks it what I'm looking for is the drive shaft retaining bolts area. Still cant find a pic/ illustration though.
Old 08-30-2009, 07:22 AM
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If everything is still hooked up, then the likely culprit is the Ring and Pinion.

Hard launches on these cars is known to kill the R&P. Easiest way to fix it is to get another transaxle and just replace the whole thing. They go for ~$300 used.

Good luck, Keith
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:36 AM
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I don't think there is any problems with it other than a worn out clutch. One of the previous owners was starting to change the clutch but either loss interest when he saw what was ahead of him or just loss interest and sold it to the person I bought it from. Hence why I had to buy a starter and slave cylinder and the 4 bolts are missing off the central tube.
Now I'm just trying to find out how to reconnect the drive shaft. I'm not having much luck since I cant find an illustration. If anyone has pics of shaft connection/ dissasembly please post.......................
Old 08-30-2009, 08:04 AM
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Here ya go.

My clutch job, in pictures:

"search" is a powerful tool.
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:10 AM
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Now were talking. Thanks thanks thanks. I went out and took the cover off the bottom of the transmission and the coupling seems to be in tact. I turned it while in neutral and the whole shaft turns on both side. I put in in 1st and I could only turn it a little and it stopped. So the tranny works (phew). Now the thing is do I loosen up the two allen bolts and push it towards the engine to get the drive shaft to engage or is there another connection over the starter that needs to be connected??
Old 08-30-2009, 08:34 AM
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The clutch end does not have any coupler on manual cars. It just slides into the spines on the clutch disk. The coupler is spined and connects the trans end of the drive shaft to the input shaft on the transmission. There is a circular retaining grove around each shaft for the retaining bolts on each end of the coupler to hold. The bolts on the coupler must be removed in order to slide the coupler. It will slide forward or back, since both shafts are the same size. IIRC, it is slid far enough forward to clear the transmission input shaft before unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing and mounts to drop it. You may need some penetrating lube and a pry bar to get the coupler moving once the retaining bolts are out.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 08-30-2009, 08:47 AM
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The bolts were in place it was the torque tube over the starter that are missing. I' loosened the rear bolt on the coupler but the coupler wouldn't move of course. I'll go back out and take the bolts out and try it again. Thanks for the great info.........
Old 08-30-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l.groves View Post
The bolts were in place it was the torque tube over the starter that are missing. I' loosened the rear bolt on the coupler but the coupler wouldn't move of course. I'll go back out and take the bolts out and try it again. Thanks for the great info.........
You must completely remove both bolts to move the coupler. You get at the trans end one through the big inspection hole in the bellhousing and the driveshaft one through another smaller round hole plugged with rubber about 3 inches forward from the tranny on the torque tube.




The 4 bolts at the clutch bellhousing are also required (obviously), but I don't think them being missing would allow the driveshaft to come backwards out of the clutch disk with the transmission still in the car. Get new ones and bolt it up, anyway.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.

Last edited by HondaDustR; 08-30-2009 at 09:19 AM..
Old 08-30-2009, 09:16 AM
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I went out and took the rear bolt out and tried to move the shaft in towards the engine but it only moved about half an inch. Are you supposed to take both bolts out and move the coupler onto the tranny shaft and then try to engage the shaft to the clutch????
Old 08-30-2009, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l.groves View Post
I went out and took the rear bolt out and tried to move the shaft in towards the engine but it only moved about half an inch. Are you supposed to take both bolts out and move the coupler onto the tranny shaft and then try to engage the shaft to the clutch????
Ok, I see where you're getting at. In that case, you need to bolt the front of the torque tube up properly first to get the proper distances between stuff. Was there any gap between the torque tube and the clutch bellhousing with the bolts missing? Once you get that put together, the driveshaft coupler at the tranny can be lined up, which will line up the driveshaft on the clutch end correctly. Keep in mind the driveshaft to clutch disk connection is pretty much free floating forward and back, whereas the coupler on the transmission end only installs at one spot on both the tranny input shaft and the tranny end of the driveshaft due to the machined ring around each shaft that the coupler retaining bolts protrude partway into in order to lock the coupler to a pre-set position on the shafts. It's not just a clamp.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 08-30-2009, 09:25 AM
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No gap between the tube and housing. Its still perfectly aligned.
Old 08-30-2009, 09:42 AM
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New thought.. Can the pressure plate be unconnected by removing bolts without bellhousing/tranny removal. I think the shaft and coupling may be fine.
Old 08-30-2009, 10:02 AM
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