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VII VII is offline
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Tint shop messed my alarm up...

I'm not sure how exactly this would happen or what they could have done besides get water in some electronics but after taking my car to a shop to have the windows tinted my alarm doesnt work correctly.

If I lock the doors from the either side then they lock as they should but the passenger side light blinks rapidly while the drivers side blinks considerably slower and dimmer. If I try to unlock the doors then they unlock but the drivers side alarm light blinks normally while the passengers goes out completely. This is while the door is open and the alarm is supposed to be unarmed.

Everything worked fine moments before I handed over the keys. I know because I locked the doors with the key from the drivers side and watched as the alarm Lights blinked like normal. I have no idea what is going on and I'm sure there is nothing I can do to get the shop to fess up to anything. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Old 09-15-2009, 09:41 PM
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Factory alarm or aftermarket?

If factory, they must've SERIOUSLY screwed something up. If aftermarket, I recommend ripping it out and throwing it in the nearest dumpster. Most aftermarket alarm systems are either:

1. Crap
2. Poorly or incorrectly installed
3. Some combination of 1 & 2.

Depending on where the "brain" of an aftermarket alarm is, it's possible they got water or fluid (whatever they were using for the tinting, usually it's some water with an additive) in it. Or possibly shorted out a window sensor. It may clear up in a day or two, but as I've said above, I hate aftermarket alarm systems - they're usually nothing but problems and do NOTHING to deter thieves. Hell, most people don't even turn their heads to look at where the siren is coming from when a car alarm goes off anymore. They're good for virtually nothing.
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Last edited by Porsche-O-Phile; 09-15-2009 at 10:09 PM..
Old 09-15-2009, 10:07 PM
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VII VII is offline
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It's the factory alarm. The brain module is under the passenger floorboard so I'm sure they didn't get to that with the liquids they were using. I am convinced that it is likely the liquids they used dripped down and messed with the drivers lock switch LED.

I tried to mess with it somemore to figure it all out and now I see that my drivers side lock switch LED does not come on at all unless I lock the car from the passenger side (which I thought I wasn't supposed to be able to do?). If locking from the drivers side, only the passenger side LED blinks rapidly. Doors are locked though.

I also noticed that the central lock button which functioned fine before does nothing now. I was so frustrated with trying to lock and unlock my doors that I gave up and decided to put my rear hatch wiper plug back in and when I went to open the hatch with the key the hatch will now not open. I hear the motor trying but it just wont come up no matter how much I push, pull, etc. It started raining so I needed to get the plug in so I pulled my seat down and crawled under my harness bar on my back to install the plug. While inside the hatch I noticed that a piece of my hatch is now seperated from the frame. I had checked the hatch glass a couple days ago for seperation before taking it in so that I could solve any problems before getting the hatch tinted. I'm sure the hatch was just waiting to seperate and the tint guy was just the catalyst by pushing on the glass but it's still irritating.

Hopefully you're right and it will all clear up in a day or so.
Old 09-15-2009, 10:52 PM
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If it doesn't clear up, you can always try disconnecting the battery for a few hours and then reconnecting it. That might help to reset things.

The factory alarm is pretty simple and the brain for it is pretty well sealed, but it's still possible something got knocked around like you're saying (sensor, central alarm switch, etc.)

Maybe the guy kicked or stepped on the central alarm button and broke it while monkeying around? When I got my Benz tinted, one of their monkeys did a number on my center console and tore it up pretty good - maybe something similar happened and it was enough to bust it or dislodge one or more of the wires connecting to it underneath (?)
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:21 AM
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If it worked befre and now it doesnt they "pay" to get it fixed or fix it themselves or give it to an autoelectrician and bill them

Also has part of your insurance, is to have a working alarm, (if your said so) if your car gets stolen or otherwise your insurance may refuse to pay up,#

advise the guys that they are liable for your car as well.

that should work


Quote:
Originally Posted by VII View Post
I'm not sure how exactly this would happen or what they could have done besides get water in some electronics but after taking my car to a shop to have the windows tinted my alarm doesnt work correctly.

If I lock the doors from the either side then they lock as they should but the passenger side light blinks rapidly while the drivers side blinks considerably slower and dimmer. If I try to unlock the doors then they unlock but the drivers side alarm light blinks normally while the passengers goes out completely. This is while the door is open and the alarm is supposed to be unarmed.

Everything worked fine moments before I handed over the keys. I know because I locked the doors with the key from the drivers side and watched as the alarm Lights blinked like normal. I have no idea what is going on and I'm sure there is nothing I can do to get the shop to fess up to anything. Any ideas on how to fix this?
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Last edited by adrian jaye; 09-16-2009 at 04:01 AM..
Old 09-16-2009, 03:56 AM
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rubbish,

I've had more problems with the OEM alarm/immobilser than any aftermarket.

a sweeping generaliztion statment like that is utter tosh

Most aftermarket alarms have more and better features than the standard alarm fitted to a 944, of nealry 20 years old.

ANY alarm not fitted correctly will have problems inluding OEM

This advise was also confirmed by main dealer and indy technicians.
Was told, not to get the Porsche alarm for mine, to get an aftermarket, which I have

2nd Clifford on 2 separate cars and ALL have lifetime waraentees and none have had any problems


Quote:
Originally Posted by Porsche-O-Phile View Post
Factory alarm or aftermarket?

If factory, they must've SERIOUSLY screwed something up. If aftermarket, I recommend ripping it out and throwing it in the nearest dumpster. Most aftermarket alarm systems are either:

1. Crap
2. Poorly or incorrectly installed
3. Some combination of 1 & 2.

Depending on where the "brain" of an aftermarket alarm is, it's possible they got water or fluid (whatever they were using for the tinting, usually it's some water with an additive) in it. Or possibly shorted out a window sensor. It may clear up in a day or two, but as I've said above, I hate aftermarket alarm systems - they're usually nothing but problems and do NOTHING to deter thieves. Hell, most people don't even turn their heads to look at where the siren is coming from when a car alarm goes off anymore. They're good for virtually nothing.
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:59 AM
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Methinks you are confusing the operation of the "remote lock" with the operation of the alarm system.

The remote locking control unit is attached to the steering column with a couple of clips. The alarm system is attached to the metal bracket in the passenger footwell.

I think you have a remote locking problem.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:19 AM
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VII VII is offline
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I could go to the shop and make claims but I have little proof. These problems could bo coincidence and because it is an old car it wouldnt be hard for them to escape under that claim. I'm sure I'll be able to solve these issues but it is a little irritating. This is exactly why I do not let others work on my car unless I have to.

I understand the difference between the central locking system and the alarm system. Because the central locking system activates/deactivates the alarm as the doors are locked/unlocked I would imagine that they play a role in the function of one another. I am not sure where the problems lies yet though.

Now neither of my lock LED's will turn on. I do not think this is a central locking issue save for the button not working which isnt all that important anyway because I never use it. I believe it to be an alarm indicator issue but I'm not sure. I will test the alarm today by arming it with the door open while pushing the door switch in or whatever similar approach I could take.

The hatch I'm sure I can solve once I get it open. I just need to grease everything up, blah blah blah. Central locking switch is likely the problem with the switch specific issue and I can test that with an ohm meter. I'll try disconnecting the battery for a while to see what happens. I can test the alarm indicators for 12v easily enough.

It will all work out I'm sure. Thanks for the responses. :0)
Old 09-16-2009, 10:21 AM
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Try checking the right rear hatch strut where the security wire connects to. Also check the metal tab that contacts the strut shaft(right side). If not connected or not making contact it causes crazy things. At least on my 968 it did.

Kevin
Old 09-16-2009, 12:05 PM
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VII VII is offline
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That sounds like a reasonable idea. I can see the stinky guy that did my tint pulling the wire so he could install the tint...I'll look into that when it stops raining. Thanks for the tip.
Old 09-16-2009, 05:58 PM
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there are a lot of things that can prevent the alarm from arming, including your glove box light

as for electric door opening, again, a number of things could be suspect, including relays and bad grounds

sounds like a long point to point diagnostic - start with the wiring diagram in the workshop manual
Old 09-16-2009, 06:58 PM
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