Uneven accelleration.
 

87 n/a. Under full acceleration, there are brief hesitations as the RPMs build (flat spots?). Not severe, but definately noticeable. Have: replaced all vacuum hoses that I could get to, replaced fuel filter, new cap & rotor & waxed paint. All to no avail. It's the injectors, right? Suggestions?

My bet is AFM.

check out this link:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-22.htm

good luck

Yeah, just read the same article.
 

I'll add it to the list of thing to do. Thanks.

HondaDustR created a very good video on how to repair:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/493906-air-flow-meter-fix-refurb.html?highlight=video

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

Thanks for the reply post.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/500279-rough-after-starting-fixed.html

John_AZ

Thanks.
 

You saved me a lot of money today. Thought it needed a new thread.

How about the filter IN the tank?

I chipped my car with a Lyndsey racing Max 944 chip and it smoothed out the acceleration, solved the hesitation issue in my car.

the true secret to speed

The problem is, under full acceleration (ie WOT), the DME ignores the AFM position. The WOT maps are 1 dimensional and are determined by rpm alone. I found that mine had some full throttle hesitation when the WOT switch wasn't working. It's an easy check using the pinouts on clarks garage. It could also be injectors or the fuel pressure regulator or damper. Vacuum leaks, old spark plugs, and shot distributor cap and rotor could also have something to do with it.

When I had the problem, the WOT switch was kind of flakey. I literally had to wire a pushbutton switch straight to the DME to fully determine that that's wat was going on. It was kind of cool, actually...sort of like a nitro button. It did run a lot smoother at high throttle with the DME WOT wires finally connected. I actually had to cut into the molded part of the housing of mine to solder jumpers between the connector pins and the switch inside. The connections between the connector and the switch inside the plastic must have cracked and the dumb thing's like $80 new. It's worked great ever since.