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oil in coolent, ticking exhust & barely passed smog

I did the oil cooler seals and I am still getting oil in my coolant. ran the car all day Saturday and lost a little more then 1 1/2 quarts of oil into my rad. do you think it might be a head gasket the car has 180psi across all cylinders and very lit if any leak down. how close are the water passages and oils passages in the block? can the head gasket be leaking at the oil/water passage and not at the cylinder/piston area? also is it very common for the oil cooler it self to crack or blow a hole in? could the cooler it self be leaking? the seals seemed to be strait forward replacement is there a trick to them I used the spacer and it was all within speck as per Clark's garage.

ticking exhaust started Saturday also. sounds like metal tapping on the exhaust pipe. was thinking maybe the cat? it doesn't change in speed with the motor but kind of come & goes while driving and always at an idle.

smog numbers were all good except the 15mph HC reading it was maxed out at 118. what would cause this? the cat? the car has new o2, plugs,wires,cap,rotor,vacuum line.

Last edited by mlang88; 09-22-2009 at 10:20 AM.. Reason: mispell
Old 09-22-2009, 09:05 AM
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Did you clean and flush the cooling system thoroughly? Did you use the OPRV alignment tool? If you're using a late cooler housing, you need to shim it and measure correctly so the element sits in the housing/on the block properly. You may be seeing residue (but 1.5 quarts is a helluva lot) or the valve may not be aligned properly. I'd suspect the latter.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:17 AM
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I didn't have the tool it is an early three piece valve I herd you didn't need the tool on the three piece. how would the valve cause the leak? I was on my 2nd clean water flush.
Old 09-22-2009, 10:24 AM
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If you have oil-in-coolant, or visa-versa, a compression test will NOT necessarily tell you if it is a head gasket problem (or a warped head), if the test comes up good. Did you have the cooling system pressure tested?
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:35 AM
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no I didn't i was thinking about buying a tester at harbor freight but maybe a radiator shop will test cheaper the tool is 80.00
Old 09-22-2009, 11:48 AM
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The oil cooler element could be leaking oil pressure, since it is on the pressure side of the oil pump. The only pressurized oil passageway through the head gasket is one in the far corner on the cyl 4 exhaust side that feeds the camshaft and lifters. It could leak into the water jacket, and a compression/leakdown test will not show anything. The only problem I'm thinking as far as doing a cooling system pressure test, is guess where the coolant will leak with no oil pressure to overpower it? Into the oil... I would pull the oil cooler again and pressure test the cooler element (clarks garage describes a way to do it). Inspect the O-ring grooves and the bores that the cooler in/outlets seal into for any damage. Make sure they're cleaned spotless. Also make sure the two other sealing areas on the housing around the OPRV are clean and undamaged and the rubber gaskets are seating properly. If that checks out, the only other place it could go, short of a cracked block or oil cooler housing is leaking from the cam housing feed into the water jacket, which would need a head gasket. I guess it's possible that the 4 oil return ports that drain oil from the cam area to the crankcase could leak into the water jacket through the head gasket, but they are only drains and probably would get coolant leaking into them first if the gasket failed there.

Oil feed for valvetrain circled here. It is right next to the water jacket. One of the 4 oil drain passageways is immediately left of it.

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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 09-22-2009, 05:09 PM
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Early 3-piece valve + no alignment tool = 1 1/2 quarts of oil in rad. Your HG is fine. Get the tool and have another go at installing the OPRV. It REALLY is important, that tool.
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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
'80 924 - spouse's yellowjacket.
Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 09-23-2009, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlang88 View Post
...ticking exhaust started Saturday also. sounds like metal tapping on the exhaust pipe. was thinking maybe the cat? it doesn't change in speed with the motor but kind of come & goes while driving and always at an idle...
Sounds like you need new muffler bearings.

Muffler Bearing - $49.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slam View Post
Early 3-piece valve + no alignment tool = 1 1/2 quarts of oil in rad. Your HG is fine. Get the tool and have another go at installing the OPRV. It REALLY is important, that tool.
Wow, then it's a good thing I decided to get one after all, since my new motor has the 3 piece valve. I got away with installing the 1 piece valve on my old motor ok without one, but...

At least you can still easily get the old tool. Pelican doesn't sell the tool specified for the new style 1 piece setups. I'd just lend you mine, except that I'll be needing it soon.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 09-23-2009, 10:37 AM
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should I replace the seals too or just try the alignment tool?
Old 09-23-2009, 01:40 PM
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also is there orings for the 3-piece valve?? I dont remember any when I did the seals.if it uses orings can that be the reason for the leak into the coolent?

Last edited by mlang88; 09-23-2009 at 02:48 PM..
Old 09-23-2009, 02:29 PM
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There are no o-rings on the OPRV except for the aluminum sealing washer for the end cap bolt. It will probably eventually drip oil if you don't replace it.

Personally, I would buy a new cooler housing gasket just in case something happens to the other one when removed, in case it sticks or is compressed. You may want 2 new oil cooler o-rings as well just in case one tears or somehow gets damaged on removal, since they're cheap and it would suck to put it to chance or have to wait for parts after the fact.

here's straight from the factory manual for using the alignment tool.
The o-ring mentioned at the end only applies to the 1 piece OPRV.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 09-23-2009, 04:39 PM
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Thanks guys.
has anybody noticed you can get the alignment tool and all the seals separately for the same price as the kit by it self? when I get the cooler housing off is there anything I should look for specifically? when I changed them the 1st time it was really hard to get the cooler in with the new seals. I thought for sure it was going to seal. could I start the motor with no coolant in for a little bit to see if there is any oil in the cooler housing when I take it off or will that destroy the water pump?


as always thanks (my muffler bearing is on order too, hopefully it will get rid of that ticking)
Old 09-24-2009, 05:51 AM
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You should edit your signature in your profile to say what model and year your car is, but if you have the old style oil cooler housing (described above), you do not use the plastic washer between the cooler element and the housing, and if you have the updated style you must use the plastic washer.

WTH is that muffler bearing, anyway? I thought it was just a joke, but... Where does it go and what does it do? I'm pretty sure there isn't anything that looks like that that came with the original exhaust system.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 09-24-2009, 08:17 AM
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Muffler bearings are as important to the longevity of your exhaust system as paper towels are to the survival of your main bearings. Right up there with that nut behind the wheel.

Better yet, check your socks!
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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
'80 924 - spouse's yellowjacket.
Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 09-24-2009, 08:43 AM
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WOW!

I haven't had a good laugh like that in awhile!

Make sure you check your blinker fluid, as well.
Blinker Fluid [BF-01] - $8.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!

...and, damn... I wish I found this a little earlier? It would have made far less of a mess in the engine compartment than the paper towel method!
Engine Oil Bypass Kit - $49.95 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!

And they sell piston return springs, boost bars, and replacement tire beads, and a wiper blade sharpenner!

omg...
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.

Last edited by HondaDustR; 09-24-2009 at 09:09 AM..
Old 09-24-2009, 08:56 AM
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o.k it has an early motor and I used the washer. you think thats whay its leaking. I guess if I buy the oil bypass kit I wouldnt have to worrie about it $49.95 what a deal
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:10 AM
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I LOVE that site! Good link - I forgot all about that place.

mlang88 - I'd take the oil cooler apart and start again from scratch, using the alignment tool.
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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
'80 924 - spouse's yellowjacket.
Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 09-24-2009, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlang88 View Post
o.k it has an early motor and I used the washer. you think thats whay its leaking. I guess if I buy the oil bypass kit I wouldnt have to worrie about it $49.95 what a deal
It's certainly possible. Check your cooler housing part number with the one in the factory manual page just in case it had been updated already. The difference is the early has the equivalent function of the washer built into the housing and the new housing is flat (or flatter than the early to make space for the washer) inside, which needs the washer. Hopefully it did not damage the oil cooler by tightenning it down with the extra washer in there. Definitely pressure test the cooler.
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1987 silver 924S 210k mi! - Rebuilt motor survived 60K so far. Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Thush Welded muffler, Bilstein shocks, MSD Blaster 2 coil, ect ect...Needs 8 more valves!
2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 V6 24V DOHC- New toy/backup plan...Borla cat back, Injen intake. Needs headers and a real set of cams.
Old 09-24-2009, 05:43 PM
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well the oil cooler is leaking. anybody have a spare for sale?
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1974 Bronco,
1965 BSA Lightning
Old 09-27-2009, 08:38 PM
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