A few questions regarding speed sensors and transmission
 

All of you know that I am in the middle of changing my clutch...Well if you have ready any of my past posts you know...Anyways, today has been extremely productive thus far. I was able to GLUE an allen socket into my stripped coupler bolt and let it sit for a few hours...and voila it turned. That led me to be able to drop the transmission, and pull the torque tube back. I removed one of my sensors (The one furthest from the firewall) and got the bolt out of the one closest...BUT I don't see it coming out very easily...I sprayed some PB blaster and I can get it to swivel side to side with some pliers..but it won't go just by turning it with my hand. I'm going to keep spraying and pulling over the next few hours and see if I can get it to come out...any suggestions??

Secondly...with the transmission out, what can I use to clean that thing up????Its NASTY...I've seen people pressure wash car parts, but with those cv joints there, I really don't want to spray water into my transmission. Any suggestions?

Lastly, I'm confused about this release lever pivot shaft and how to release it by threading the bolt...Can anyone clarify?/

Thanks guys!

Matt

You use the bolt as an extractor to pull the pivot shaft out.

Thread it in, then what I do is put a pair of vice grips on the bolt, then beat on the vice grips with a hammer. Voila - the pivot shaft pops out!

When I cleaned up my last transmission, mostly I used a wire brush on a drill - and other wire brushes, but no solvents.

If you really have to use a solvent, brake cleaner works wonders. But you really have to be careful where you use it because it eats rubber and plastic - and I wouldn't use it anywhere near the CV joints. Really, I wouldn't use it unless I absolutely had to.

I just used some engine degreaser and a toothbrush. With the transmission out, the actual CV joints would be unbolted from the output flanges. Just be careful to not work any dirt into the oil seal area of the output flanges, or be sure to pull the flanges and clean the seal and flange area after it's dry, since the grit might wear out the seal and you'll have to replace it.

My release pin was so stuck that clamping on the bolt with vise grips didn't quite do it for me. If you still can't get it out, use the bolt with a socket just the right size so that it will contact the bellhousing around the pin but not the pin itself (I had to dremel the housing to make room for the socket around the back), and crank the bolt down against the socket to extract the pin. I played it safe since my bolt wasn't a terribly high grade and just tightened it nice and hard against the socket and then hit the pin from the opposite side through the hole with a big hammer and a 1/4" punch. If you hit it hard enough, you probably won't need the bolt and socket.