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P944GUY's Avatar
 
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Balance shaft cover housing

Does anyone know if there is gasket or seal for the balance shaft housing covers, upper (drivers side) and lower (pass side). I looked at PET and it doesn't show anything, or it's maybe it's listed as a separate repair part # and not in the picture.

87 944 non turbo

Would you believe that I just got done doing the oil filler tube seals, fixed one leaky mess and now 2 leaks (balance shaft housing covers) made there presence known even worse than before....I know the upper (drivers side) has a sheared bolt, and has been leaking for awhile...and i greased up the oil filler tube seals good before I put that back on and visually made sure the seals didn't get twisted or turned when putting it back on...

if not a seal or gasket are the RTV'd in place to seal them up?

part numbers please !!!!

Old 10-12-2009, 02:52 PM
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Anaerobic sealant is used, Loctite 574.
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:20 PM
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Depends where the leak is.
If it leaks at the back, there is a fat o-ring that shrinks and gets hard over time and it will leak oil in the back. It will need a new fat o-ring. You can also slap some RTV as a temp fix.
If it is on the parting line between the block and top cover, it needs the loctite 574.
If it leaks in the front behind the timing belt cover, there is a big o-ring behind the front housing that can leak. It needs a new o-ring.
If it leaks behind the balance shaft pulley flange, and slings oil inside the front belt cover, the mylar seal is split.
The sleeve between the oil seal and the shaft can also have worn some grooves causing oil to leak out. When this happens, the oil seal rubber has hardened and may also need to be replaced together with the sleeve.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:54 PM
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Proprietoristicly Refined
 
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EDIT: Took too long to post and question has been answered.


Techno Duck,

I have not taken off my balance shaft housing.
Isn't there a rear seal that also leaks? Part #16




Thanks,
John_AZ

Last edited by John_AZ; 10-12-2009 at 06:04 PM.. Reason: Took to long to post
Old 10-12-2009, 06:02 PM
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I have a leak dripping down the side of block below the housing and puddling in the crevices near the dipstick tube...I had my timing belts redone last year and I know my mechanic changed the seal in the front, the housing sealing has not been done nor has the rear seal...Thanks for the info ..now I know what to buy..and that sheared bolt is a whopping $14 each...Anybody in Phoenix wanna help!!!!
Old 10-12-2009, 07:50 PM
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16 slips over 15 to create the seal at the back. use locktite 574 or the new version (638) or any anaerobic flange sealant by permatex, etc.

Just did this and mine is holding up fine.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:52 PM
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So here is one more important question....Does the front timing cover and timing belt and pulley need to come off to do this....
Old 10-12-2009, 08:19 PM
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I did the upper balance shaft about two weeks ago without removing the cover and belt. It's risky because if the front o-ring (#21 in the PET. P/N# 999-701-652-40) gets damaged or appears dried out, then you'll have to pull the timing stuff and replace that as well. I was able to replace the rear seal and used Permatex 85249 to seal the cover flange.

Of course right after doing that, I discovered my lower balance shaft rear seal was leaking as well. I got lazy and just gooped that up with a little Permatex 82914 Ultra Grey for now. Seems to be holding up fine until I can find the time and energy to replace those seals. For the lower shaft, you will need to remove all the belts, covers, etc.

If you are smart/ambitious/etc then you should pull the belts and covers, replace all the seals for both balance shafts, all the front seals, and replace the belts and rollers "while you are in there". If you did the water pump and everything the total bill would probably run you about $400-$500 in parts.
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Last edited by jasonmx5; 10-13-2009 at 07:18 AM..
Old 10-13-2009, 07:15 AM
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The lower one is a PITA. You have to remove at least the exhaust headers. After doing it once, I would strongly suggest putting a jack and a big piece of wood under the oil pan (or bellhousing) to support the engine so you can remove the engine mount bracket, too. There's just barely enough room to do the job with it still installed, and it's extremely difficult to clean the block mating surface and install the cover without messing up the applied sealant.

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Old 10-13-2009, 10:33 AM
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