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Quick check of the sensors? Quick reply would be awesome
Hey guys...I'm putting my clutch back together and I was wondering if once I get the bellhousing bolted back on and I mount the starter and slave cylinder if it would be okay to start the engine just to make sure I have the speed and ref sensors adjusted properly. I'd hate to get all the way done and then go to crank the car and have to adjust those things with the bell housing on or even worse take everything back out to adjust the sensors.
So is it okay to start the engine without the torque tube bolted on? |
if u already got the engine in the car...how is it not connected to the torque tube? unless u dropped the trans too?
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This is a good question that i thought about when i did my clutch. I think it would be better to get the torque tube bolted up. My thinking was because the clutch disc is sandwiched inbetween the pressure plate and the flywheel. Initial alignment is set with the alignment tool. When the car is started i just felt like it was very possible for the clutch disc to fall out of alignment. True you could leave the alignment tool in, but they are pretty flimsy plastic. While getting that torque tube pushed back forward and engaged in the splines is a major pain, it shouldnt take too long. Its a 2 person job for sure.. you will probably need a friend to very slowly push on the clutch pedal as you man handle the torque tube forward to get that last inch or so of engagement.
It should be fine to start it without it.. but i would hate to have to take the bell housing and pressure plate off again to get everything lined up again! |
Hm yeah it's just wierd because I glued my washer to my sensor and even with the lock nut and the pivot nut on the sensor bracket loose I couldn't get the sensor to even touch the flywheel...so I adjusted it as close as possible and tightened it down....
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The sensor with washer glued on it should touch the ring gear on the pressure plate, not the flywheel.
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Install the sensor with mounted washer and tighten.
Move the bracket down until it stops again the ring gear on the flywheel. Tighten the mounting bracket locking bolt and pivot bolt. Remove the sensor with washer. If the sensor is to be reused, pry the washer off the sensor. Install sensor and torque retaining bolt to 8 Nm (6 ft-lb). Reconnect battery. Damn Clarks garage.... |
Man this is frustrating...so clarks garage publishes the wrong info...I follow directions (sensor touches the FLYWHEEL outer ring) put on my pp and wonder why it won't turn....go ahead and torque all of the pp bolts then read technoducks post and realize that the reason the flywheels not turning is he fact that the damn sensor is lodged...
Hopefully it's nt damaged...I can't get the Allen head to sit right in the brakcet bolts so I'm going to have to remove the pp again...loosen the bracket readjust the sensor to the PP...and tighten it back down. Luckily I have new sensor bolts. So why did I get done today? Nothing besides fins a clutch alignment tool and Install the sensor bracket the wrong way. What a waste of a day off...i WILL be finishing this on Wednesday no matter what |
Just make sure that you don't push the clutch in if the engine is running and the TT is not in place.
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Please tell us you DID cut the bell housing sensor area out.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1255393596.jpg John_AZ |
John
YES. I definitely did that. (One of the few things I DID do today.) Will the 944 start without engaging the clutch. I know on my old honda civic stick shift the clutch HAD to be depressed to start the car. I won't be as worried once I gap the sensor the PRESSURE PLATE...and not the FLYWHEEL. Clark's garage should really fix that...lol |
Quote:
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Yes, no clutch switch on the 944's. Ive had a few embarrassing moments having left it in gear before :D.
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So once I get the bell housing slave and starter on I can just crank the car real quick to make sure it starts( no tt or exhaust/o2 sensor)??? Then if it starts I'll mount the tt and trans and be back on the road!!
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