Help - Flywheel Bolts - Clutch Updates

[3sonfather]

Well I’m deep into my clutch job and by far the toughest thing going is removing the cheesehead bolts on the flywheel. I’m using a 16” breaker bar with the 8mm 12 point tool. I prevent the flywheel from rotating by installing a bar in position with 2 of the pressure plate mounting bolts. I’ve gone through two 12 point tools and fear that I may have stripped one of the bolt’s head.

Does anyone have any encouraging words of advice?

Thanks,
Scott



Prologue: What I’ve found so far – speed sensor end was worn through the bottom case. That was probably causing my earlier rev limiting problem (couldn’t get over 5,000 rpm). Only 7 of the 9 pressure plate bolts were installed (gee, I’d love to interview the idiot that worked on this car before). One of those 7 bolt’s head was stripped so I had to drill and grind it out - you can imagine how much fun this was. I doubt that the clutch unit was properly aligned given what I’ve found so far. My symptoms were vibrations around 2,800 rpm and periodic jumpy starts into 1st gear and serious jumpy starts into reverse. The rubber centered clutch was intact but not much material left on the friction surface. There was a large chunk of rubber jammed up into the pressure plate indicating that an earlier clutch had failed – this could have also thrown the unit off balance and resulted in some of the vibration. The surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate appear to be in great shape. There were some score marks on the throw-out bearing fork pin as a result of bad needle bearings in the fork so I’ll be looking for a new fork pin. There is some noticeable run-out on the end of the torque shaft – perhaps .020”. I don’t know what to make of that yet and don’t want to fork out $$ to replace the torque tube so I’ll probably just leave it alone.
Any comments welcome and I’ll field any questions that follow.

[3sonfather]

Here's the speed sensor:

[EGSMachine]

don't forget to resuface the flywheel.

[Mike B]

It sounds like the worst is over (I hope)...I've been is simliar situations so I know the utter frustration you're feeling...

I bet you would love the opportunity to meet the person who did the clutch before you...

[lordgrommit]

OK I had the same problem .. the ones that are striped You'll just have to drill out I use progressive drill bits till I can pop the head off they are damm hard to do so take it slow. The only way I got the damm bolts out was with a air Impact wrench. Seems hitting them with the power brakes them free pretty easy, hold on tight. Take your time you'll be rewarded in the end..

Matt

[3sonfather]

Thanks Lord...,
Just the advice I wanted to hear. Now I have an excuse to buy an air compressor and impact wrench.
Thx,
Scott

Say, what do you recommend for replacement of the insulation around the body behind the engine. As you can see it is torn to shreds. It appears to be fiberglass with an aluminum foil outer. I know Home Depot has something similar for wrapping ductwork and it has an adhesive backing.

[DennisR_944]

You might want to try a hand impact like they use on motorcycle parts if you don't want to go the air impact route. Just a thought.

[3sonfather]

I applied a light amount of heat to the cheesehead bolt using an oxy-acetylene torch (small tip) - just a dull orange. The remaining 4 bolts came off with ease. I'll check the flywheel flatness tomorrow.