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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 226
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is this clutch worn?
I just bought a used clutch from ebay.. i was wondering if anyone could tell me how much life it could have in it? I cant tell. I can also take more pics
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 226
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heres another pic
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 972
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i forsee disaster in less than 1000miles. why would u buy a used clutch off ebay sight unseen?
if you're really aiming for a cheap clutch, read our cheap thread on rennlist. u can get yer old spring centered clutch relined for less than 100 bucks. and u get a new disc from clutchnet for like 150 or something. ford ranger v6 clutches also work but u need low profile flywheel bolts, for which i have a box of extras. |
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Redline Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,474
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Don't know about that PP, but the disk looks like it at least has a good bit of materal left. I would have gone new myself, since it's alot of work to find out the unknown clutch chatters. Check out centerforce. I got one of their standard disks and it's really nice and alot cheaper than Sachs.
__________________
1987 silver 924S - Rebuilt motor! Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Bilstein shocks, no more K&N air filter, MSD Blaster 2 coil (no ballast resistor), Steel braided brake lines, Magnecore wires, Weltmeister throttle cam. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 226
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heres a pic of the pressure plate
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Redline Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,474
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Yeah, that side doesn't matter so much as all the crud and rust on the friction side. If you're strapped for cash, I'd clean up the friction surface of the PP really good with coarse sandpaper (pretty much what I did to my PP that I reused and it works fine) and roll with that clutch disk, but there's definitely an element of risk involved. As long as the throwout bearing feels smooth (it can come apart enough to re-pack it with grease) and there's no bent fingers on the diaphragm spring, it wouldn't be too bad a gamble, but definitely have the flywheel machined. It's a stepped flywheel, so make sure they machine the step that the PP mates to the same amount as the friction surface to preserve the distance between the PP and the flywheel surfaces. It all looks pretty clean, though. I bet they were fairly new parts. That pressure plate looks like it has about the same amount of depth to the rivets as the brand new one I got from centerforce had.
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1987 silver 924S - Rebuilt motor! Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Bilstein shocks, no more K&N air filter, MSD Blaster 2 coil (no ballast resistor), Steel braided brake lines, Magnecore wires, Weltmeister throttle cam. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 972
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fingers look in decent condition. any play at all in bearing?
take some 100grit sandpaper and clean up the mating surface see if that imprint transfer comes off. would *I* run the pressure plate? prob. would *I* run that disc? no...not when a ford ranger disc costs $30 and I already have the flywheel bolts to make it work. hehe |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 226
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theres no play in the bearing at all... it spins smoothly with no effort
any special technique to sanding the mating surface? |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 972
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naw not really. just go smooth over entire surface.
method is prob cringed upon by the porsche gods...but i learned it from old school car guy. the proper way would be to give it to a machine shop and have em check it and turn it for $20 |
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Redline Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,474
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If you can find a shop that can do it. The shop I had my stuff done at couldn't do it, at least not as is. Since the friction part is "floating" on pins, the main spring, and some strips of spring steel to stabilize, he claimed there's no way to accurately machine it without taking it apart. As long as it's not burned or pitted, it should work as is, but if a shop can turn it, all the better.
__________________
1987 silver 924S - Rebuilt motor! Bottom end balanced, Custom mild ported head, Port matched intake, LR 944MAX chip, Bilstein shocks, no more K&N air filter, MSD Blaster 2 coil (no ballast resistor), Steel braided brake lines, Magnecore wires, Weltmeister throttle cam. |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 2,263
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The WSM has a minimum thickness required for the disc:
![]() There is also a minimum thickness that you need to check between the top of rivets and the lining. I cannot find the measurement but your used eBay disc looks OK. Should be measured to be certain. ![]() ALSO, just thinking ahead.... The TO can be repacked ONCE----simple to do-instructions available. The PP should have only little wear on the diaphram fingers where the TO sits. Check your clutch fork for cracks and wear where the TO contacts. A slight groove can be corrected by grinding the high side flush on the fork. The fork rod may have needle bearing pits. If not very deep, just use a 400 grit emery papar to polish. If very deep-replace. Replace the RMS---Install to the bottom stop in the block---Usually deeper than flush. Search for many install tips. Should get new FW bolts. Spend $$$$ for a 10mm triple square/cheesehead----hex. NAPA (AutoZone to brittle) Flywheel---------------------- It should be machined or at least polished if you do not see burn marks or scars. GL John_AZ |
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