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Proprietoristicly Refined
John_AZ's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,813

If you notch the bell housing for easier removal in the future, you will develop electro-magnetic interference with the reference sensors caused by the starter.

The symptoms will be when you start the car and get a slight to serious "kick-back".

Small high torque starters are the biggest problems. The old fat starters seem to have less interference.

Old post with TSB:
S2 and 968 speed reference sensor question

1988 924S 77K July 2017 ...+ 1987 924S 145K DD (+15K est. bad odometer)
Old 01-05-2015, 04:02 AM
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911tracker85's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Park Hills, KY
Posts: 1,427
I did take out all the bolts from the plate that holds the sensors in an attempt to get it out that way, but I had no luck. It wiggles but doesn't come out. I think that was my "Plan Y" lol.
read the link above and in that it notes there is a pin on the bracket that will prevent pulling the bracket.

well.... got everything off Saturday. will attack the pilot bearing and RMS this coming weekend.

had a couple challenges.

I had to pull the heater control valve hose off the block to get to the top bell housing bolt and the ground. mine is a 951.

the PO had used all 6 point cheese head bolts but one. that was a 12 point and I did not notice before stripping with the 6 point bit. tried the 12 point but too much damage. drilled out easy enough.

found the problem with my clutch. all the rivets were gone that hold the clutch facing plates to the center, metal plate.

good luck.
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 01-05-2015, 05:22 AM
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TR6 TR6 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas
Posts: 8
I just did a transaxle swap on a 944 race car this weekend and thought I'd throw in a tip or two to the excellent original post.

Regarding step 5, I found the shift coupler that mates the two splined shafts to be my biggest challenge. First you have to rotate the shaft (and the engine) to get the two 8 mm hex head bolts to line up in the access holes. To do this, I used a 24mm socket on the front crank pulley of the engine to rotate it by hand. It helps to have a second person do this while you watch it to line up at the transaxle. Then loosen the first bolt without removing it completely, then rotate the shaft 180 degrees and remove the second hex bolt. Then rotate it back to remove the first hex bolt completely. The threads of these bolts get messed up easily and this helps prevent that. When reinstalling it is critical to not tighten the first hex bolt before starting the second hex bolt. These bolts strip very easily and if you tighten the first bolt before starting to the second, you cannot adjust the position of the coupler on the splines to get the second bolt lined up right without risking damaging the threads. Once they are both lined up and started by hand with no binding, tighten them to spec. If you feel any binding, pull it out and try again.
Greg H.
1980 911 Euro SC
1993 911 RS America
1976 Triumph TR6
1987 944 SP1 race car
Old 04-05-2015, 08:45 AM
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Toofah King Bad
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: PacNW
Posts: 3,848
Alternative for rotating the drive shaft: put the car in gear and have an assistant depress the clutch, turn one wheel while holding the other.
» 1980 931 - Got boost? ♦ 1987 924S - Pro44 ♦ 1987 924S - Junkyard score «

"DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc
Old 04-05-2015, 09:25 AM
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JTN JTN is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 1
This direction is spot on. Haynes manual had me convinced the trans would come out with cross bar removed from body. Not so. Remove the bolts and it slides right out. Easy. Hope it goes back in easy.
Old 10-27-2015, 05:13 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)

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