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Transmission removal made easy- been gone for awhile- thought I'd post

Here is a quick overview of the transmission removal and install - Trust me is VERY EASY but a transmission jack is helpful. I have done it in a gravel drive with no jack and in the garage with music playing and all the right eq- you decide your level of aggravation...

1- Find a plasma torch- kidding- jack and secure the car on stands or ramps. -

2- Undo the shafts at the transmission and suspend the CV and shafts. No need to take them off- I use speed wire to hold them high

3- Disconnect the connector for the reverse light switch- easy to see and find its in the bottom pic to the left of the transmission mount.

4- Push the shift rod bellows to the rear and unscrew clamping screw. Dissconnect teh shift rod from the intermediate lever.

5- Pull the dust plate and rotate the torque tube to access the Allen bolts of the clamping tube- remove the bolts- PUSH THE SLEEVE TOWARDS THE TRANSMISSION until it clears the shaft. Not towards the engine..You can use and extension and a swivel to make it easier.-- SEE TOP PICTURE BELOW



6- Block or suspend the torque tube

7- Position the Trans jack or floor jack and remove the transmission mount bolts SEE BOTTOM PIC ABOVE

8- Remove the transmission / central tube bolts

9- Pull the transmission to the rear and lower and done!!!!

Simple enough- install torques are Trans to tube for the M12 its 63ftlb, the M10 is 31 ft-lb, the Shift rod is 15ftlbs, the mount is 17ftlbs and the drive shaft bolts 31 ft-lb..

Good luck, its easy enough- Mike

Old 03-29-2010, 07:39 AM
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MORE ! MORE!

What if I forget to replace the black plastic shift rod dust tube?

Do I use the plasma torch when I strip the coupler bolts?

My friend says I have to cut the spare tire wheel well out so the transaxle will clear.

I usually do not use a floor jack. I just lay under the transaxle and let it fall on my belly. I install it in the same way, but I have to arch my back to lift it.


Seriously,

Thanks for the Cliff Notes version .

John_AZ
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:46 PM
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LOL

You don't need to cut the spare tire well out. Although, a slight modification does help. A well placed blow with baby sledge hammer will customize it nicely. Just don't do it while the car's on jackstands.

If you have a late 944 and have the single tranny mount on top, it's easier to take the cross member / brace (I can't think of the propper name at the moment. it's black, about 2 ft long, bolts on the end).

Welcome back Mike
Old 03-29-2010, 03:22 PM
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LOL

A well placed blow with baby sledge hammer will customize it nicely.
My 924S has been customized in such a manor. I'm sure my 951S will also join the club, when clutch time comes, if it hasn't already.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:10 PM
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:17 PM
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A transmission jack is even handier -- so much so, I thnk I'd call it a must. Particularly when getting things lined up to go back in.
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:06 PM
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helpful hints

yes, slide the torque tube BEFORE unbolting the transmission, or else it gets all bound up and becomes a major pain. While on the subject...there IS a little hole in the bottom of the transmission that accepts the shaft of a standard jack if you remove the standard cup. This would be a good time to clean and inspect the CV's and replace the triple squares if they look bad. I wrap the CVs in something protective while the tranny is out and hang them up to keep them out of the way. ALways replace the shift linkage bolt with a new one and remember to torque it properly and wire it soundly.
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:37 AM
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I think I have finally found the answer to why there is a big hole cut in the spare tire well of my latest 85.5/944 - I took a piece of 10"x 10"x 1/8" aluminum and then with silicone and screws patched over the hole - That could have been a modification made by Porsche at factory for ease of replacement - hind sight is 20/20 always.
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:59 AM
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The only reason for the hole is to access the clutch without dropping the tranny. As pointed out, the tranny drop is quite easy, so I don't really understand the hole.

But, to each his own (sawzall).
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_AZ View Post
MORE ! MORE!

What if I forget to replace the black plastic shift rod dust tube?

Do I use the plasma torch when I strip the coupler bolts?

My friend says I have to cut the spare tire wheel well out so the transaxle will clear.

I usually do not use a floor jack. I just lay under the transaxle and let it fall on my belly. I install it in the same way, but I have to arch my back to lift it.


Seriously,

Thanks for the Cliff Notes version .

John_AZ
Thanks all-

Some notes- To respond................

1- You actually still have the dust tube? LOL
2- Drilling out the bolt headss works just fine....then hammer like hell with a punch.
3- You do have to beat or cut the spare well ONLY if you slide the coupler toward the front of the car. It does not slide enough to provide the clearence to drop otherwise. AND it seems natural to slide it towards the torque tube, Guesss how I know.
4- I have pulled the floor jack and out of total frustration shook and almost bench pressed the car trying to get it out when I made mistake number three. It finally came crashing down- I did use a trans jack to get it back in though ( still sore )

Cheers guys- glad to be back.... Mike
Old 03-30-2010, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolReaver View Post
yes, slide the torque tube BEFORE unbolting the transmission, or else it gets all bound up and becomes a major pain. While on the subject...there IS a little hole in the bottom of the transmission that accepts the shaft of a standard jack if you remove the standard cup. This would be a good time to clean and inspect the CV's and replace the triple squares if they look bad. I wrap the CVs in something protective while the tranny is out and hang them up to keep them out of the way. ALways replace the shift linkage bolt with a new one and remember to torque it properly and wire it soundly.

+1-all good advice. If it is stubborn a good crow bar works well. I have also had to spread the spline with a screwdriver then pry....

CVs - its a good time to do some maintenance---- Mike
Old 03-30-2010, 01:23 PM
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Holy Porshe Batman!

I briefly considered chopping the wheelwell and even found some good lines to go by. However, I was convinced by others on this forum not to. AFTER doing the job (the right way) I can tell you that dropping the transmission is the way to go. My reasons are as follows: 1) repairing the hole in the wheel well is a pain and looks freakish at best. Not that it is really a big deal, the wheelwell is only used for holding the Ftarded econo spare 2) the torque tube needs to be ROTATED before it slides back, otherwise it gets hung up on the little wedges that are designed to hold it in place in case of an accident. (I THINK that is what they are for ) and so the whole prop shaft tranny assembly does not slide back even IF you had the room by hacking the wheel well. 3) you want as much room as possible at the engine bell housing and even if the TT slid back (which it doesn't) you are not going to have the kind of room you get by disconnecting and removing the tranny and sliding the rotated tube all the way. 4) how on earth are you going to support the transmission, unless you lay it in the wheelwell? and wouldn't you have to D/C the linkage and CVs anyway?

Anyway, that is my thinking. I am not perfect. My wheel well has a slight dimple that I don't loose sleep over and I have a clutch that I do not intend to work on any time soon as it should have another 100K or ten years with any luck. Anyone who has done the clutch by way of cutting apart the wheel well, feel free to chime in and tell me what a great idea it is.
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:26 PM
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Thank you for the information, i'm trying to take off the clutch housing to get to those damned reference sensors (they won't come out, I imagine that the lack of a spacer allowed the flywheel to chew one up and made it so that it won't slide out upwards so i've resorted to taking the plate itself off). So begins the process of removing the transmission.

To start off i'd like to point out how incredibly difficult it is to find the 12 point spline bits necessary to remove the axles from the transmission, they don't seem to sell them in any store, so I had to order them online.

I got every single bolt off of the transmission but ONE. On the torque tube, the sleeve that clamps on has 2 allen bolts. In the picture the OP posted, both of the bolts are beautifully aligned so that you can access both of the bolts from the bottom without a hassle. Mine on the other hand, are on complete opposite sides of the torque tube. The bolt towards the front of my car was exactly where the picture depicted it to be, however.

My question is, how do I rotate the torque tube to gain access to this bolt? Everyone is talking about "rotating the torque tube" but I haven't the slightest clue about how to do that.
Old 12-30-2014, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADPerformance View Post

To start off i'd like to point out how incredibly difficult it is to find the 12 point spline bits necessary to remove the axles from the transmission, they don't seem to sell them in any store, so I had to order them online.
I picked mine up at AutoZone and Oreilly carries them. Google Lisle Triple Square!
Old 12-30-2014, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
how do I rotate the torque tube
Depending on what's still connected to what, either turn your rear wheels or turn the engine with a socket on the crank pulley.
Old 12-30-2014, 03:01 PM
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Quote:

Quote de ADPerformance





To start off i'd like to point out how incredibly difficult it is to find the 12 point spline bits necessary to remove the axles from the transmission, they don't seem to sell them in any store, so I had to order them online.

I picked mine up at AutoZone and Oreilly carries them. Google Lisle Triple Square!
Seconded. I bought a complete set online and weeks later noticed that Advanced has a set that comes with three sizes, it was sort of hidden on their tool rack. I dont regret buying the full set, though. You need three different sizes- one for the flywheel, one for the CV axle bolts and one for the rear hatch catches. I dont know what I'll use the other 9 for... Haha
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I just started this clutch job and loosened and slid the clamp back. and the two bolts are 180 degree off on mine too.

you do not rotate the TT to get to those blots. if you push in the clutch, and you can rotate the drive shaft with your hand, or rotate the rear wheels if it is in a gear.

I may reach this point today, but I think the issue of rotating the TT is to allow you to pull toward the back of the car to gain access to the bell housing. have to position those big flanges so it can slide back.

Quote:
i'm trying to take off the clutch housing to get to those damned reference sensors
regarding removing the bell housing. you have to remove the sensors to get it off. there are holes in the bell housing through which the sensors go. when I get mine off, will notch those places so the bell housing can be put on and removed without pulling those sensors.

I am not sure, but wonder if you removed the bolt holding the sensor bracket and pull the whole bracket and sensors out?

good luck.
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Old 12-31-2014, 05:48 AM
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If you have a late 944 and have the single tranny mount on top, it's easier to take the cross member / brace
I encountered this suggestion on the Clarks garage procedure. it says to remove the bracket on the fuel filter. but it looks to me like I'll also need to remove the fuel filter so enable that cross member to come down.

well.... off to the shop.

Happy New Year everyone!
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Old 12-31-2014, 05:56 AM
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you can rotate the drive shaft with your hand
Ja, good clarification. The TT itself doesn't actually turn. You need to spin the drive shaft within the TT to get to the bolts on the coupler.
Old 12-31-2014, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911tracker85 View Post
regarding removing the bell housing. you have to remove the sensors to get it off. there are holes in the bell housing through which the sensors go. when I get mine off, will notch those places so the bell housing can be put on and removed without pulling those sensors.

I am not sure, but wonder if you removed the bolt holding the sensor bracket and pull the whole bracket and sensors out?

good luck.
Thanks for the info. I've never had to work on a car with a rear mounted transmission before, so this is still a learning experience

My problem is that the second sensor, the one closest to the front of the engine, does not come out at all. I have tried for months to get it out, trying absolutely everything. At this point I already have the transmission pretty much off so I might as well go through with it.

I did take out all the bolts from the plate that holds the sensors in an attempt to get it out that way, but I had no luck. It wiggles but doesn't come out. I think that was my "Plan Y" lol.

I just really want this car to run. I had started it on 3 different occasions after I installed a new starter and distributor, but it died out each time after about 15 seconds of running. I bypassed the alarm. Nothing. After that, I saw that the plugs for the reference sensors were both completely disintegrated. I figured that must be the cause. I have the new sensors ready for installation if I can get that other one out

I work alone. Nobody has been helping me so i'd be extra excited if I can drive the car by this coming summer

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