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Koni yellow settings for 250lbs springs and 27mm torsion bars?

I have ground control coil over sleeves in the front with 250lbs springs and 27mm torsion bars in the rears with Koni Yellows all around.

Does any one with this set up have a good recommendation for the dampener settings?

Also, with the rear shocks, which way is stiff and which was is soft? I noticed that turned all the way one way, the shock will extend really fast, and turned the other way, it will take forever to fully extend. I'm assuming when it extends really fast, it's on soft, since the valve is more open?

Old 04-01-2010, 09:18 AM
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about 1/2 of the way from full soft on the front (about 1 full turn)

1 turn from full soft on the rear should do it - depending on the rear weight of the car, and the particular tires and wheels, you may decide to go another half turn, but start there

i believe there is a tutorial on the koni website, but clockwise is firmer - counterclockwise is softer

do not make the all too common mistake of thinking that firmer setting equals stiffer suspension, and crank it up more than the correct amount for the springs - all that does is make it jittery
Old 04-01-2010, 11:28 AM
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Just finished my rears, fronts to go on when motor goes in. . .same setup. . .can't wait to drive it!
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:30 AM
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I don't get what you meant for the front. Turn the dial to full soft and then 1/2 towards firm?

and for the rear, turn to full soft and 1 turn towards firm?

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Originally Posted by flash968 View Post
about 1/2 of the way from full soft on the front (about 1 full turn)

1 turn from full soft on the rear should do it - depending on the rear weight of the car, and the particular tires and wheels, you may decide to go another half turn, but start there

i believe there is a tutorial on the koni website, but clockwise is firmer - counterclockwise is softer

do not make the all too common mistake of thinking that firmer setting equals stiffer suspension, and crank it up more than the correct amount for the springs - all that does is make it jittery
Old 04-01-2010, 12:05 PM
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yes - always start at full soft, then adjust up
Old 04-01-2010, 12:30 PM
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If the spring rate for the front is higher than the rear, why is the front shock only adjusted 1/2 turn from soft and the rear, 1 full turn from soft? Is the valving in the front and rear shocks different? Not questioning your knowledge, just curious to know.
Old 04-01-2010, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flash968 View Post
about 1/2 of the way from full soft on the front (about 1 full turn)
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Originally Posted by jonvo View Post
If the spring rate for the front is higher than the rear, why is the front shock only adjusted 1/2 turn from soft and the rear, 1 full turn from soft?
Jonvo, he said 1/2 of the way (ie half way) from full soft, or 1 full turn, which is the same thing.
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:26 PM
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I put my rears on last weekend... Putting the fronts on when I get the housings powder coated.... I'm going to have the exact same setup....
Old 04-01-2010, 03:33 PM
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got it, thanks.

brings me back to the question: shouldn't the front shocks be set stiffer since the spring rate in the front is stiffer than the rear? Or are the front/rear shocks valved differently? If the rears should be set 1 turn from soft, shouldn't the front be somewhere around 1.5 from soft to match the spring rate?

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Jonvo, he said 1/2 of the way (ie half way) from full soft, or 1 full turn, which is the same thing.
Old 04-01-2010, 03:38 PM
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the spring rate is not that much stiffer up front - a 27mm torsion bar is 220lb wheel rate - a 250 lb spring is only 235 lb wheel rate - pretty close

the valving is different though - it's not by much, but it's there

always better to start softer and go up as needed to control the spring - that is all the shock and strut are there to do

you'll know you have it right when running down the freeway feels the same as stock

Old 04-01-2010, 09:37 PM
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