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Location: Canoga Park, California
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Camshaft Gasket

So I am replacing the Gasket for the Camshaft, because it was leaking so much oil and dropping on to the headers so a lot of smoke was coming out.

The problem is that the old gasket is just so glued to the upper part of the cylinder head. I was planning on using a metal brush to remove it but I am afraid to scratch the surface and have oil leaking from it after replacing the old with a new gasket

Any suggestions on how to remove the remaining gasket easily?

Thanks.

Old 05-04-2010, 09:02 PM
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go to your local auto store and ask if they have a gasket remover... its a spray that help remove the gaskets here the name and description

Permatex 80646 Gasket Remover, 16 oz. Aerosol Can

hope it helps!!
Old 05-04-2010, 09:35 PM
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Cool I'll try that...I spent 3 hours today with a putty knife and a blade and did not advance much.

Thanks.
Old 05-04-2010, 09:47 PM
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also get a gasket scraper it pretty much a rectangular sheet metal that sharpen in the end with a handle.... it would help you pry or loosen the gasket out.
Old 05-04-2010, 09:48 PM
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If you're VERY, VERY careful you can use a single-edge razor blade. The spray helps, but so does acetone.
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slam View Post
If you're VERY, VERY careful you can use a single-edge razor blade. The spray helps, but so does acetone.
with the gasket - yes, if they used some kind of sealant - I've spend about 3 hours trying to clean out my block from the old sealant/gaskets with nothing to show for it using acetone
Old 05-06-2010, 03:31 AM
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True. Lacquer thinner then. I ended up gently block sanding the gasket remnants off in places. And I mean GENTLY! The first time I did my gasket I used sealer, the second time I didn't. When I redid it it seemed the sealer made it easier to get off. The gasket didsn't bake itself to the aluminum so much.
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slam View Post
True. Lacquer thinner then. I ended up gently block sanding the gasket remnants off in places. And I mean GENTLY! The first time I did my gasket I used sealer, the second time I didn't. When I redid it it seemed the sealer made it easier to get off. The gasket didsn't bake itself to the aluminum so much.
I used 2500 grit, got it a little wet and LIGHTLY went over the surface

did much good
Old 05-06-2010, 01:09 PM
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Try using spraying PB Metal Penatrating spray.
Let it sit for 1/2 hr and a heat gun.
It worked for me...

Hope this post was helpful.

Later.
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:55 AM
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Thanks...

I actually ended up using a razor blade and did a good job. However, I went to a Porsche mechanic and suggested me to use sand paper to get the surface rough so that the new gasket does not slip away to cause any possible leaks...

Have you guys tried this before or should I just leave it like that?

salutes...
Old 05-08-2010, 01:24 PM
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The gasket actually doesn't move to cause leaks. It develops cracks across it because the block stretches about 2mm when warmed up and the gasket doesn't stretch evenly. I suspect that's why the genuine Porsche gasket is graphite-coated, to allow it to slide easier as the block stretches.

There's two things I've found to help keep the cam-tower sealed against leaks for at least a decade (last time I replaced mine after doing it 4x in 2-years):

1. use a torque-wrench and DO NOT EXCEED the torque-recommendations. Also follow the tightening sequence outlined in the manual. If you don't, you'll end up pinching or squeezing it out or ripping it.

2. I like to lay down a thin bead of Yamabond-4 (available at Yamaha dealers). This is a very flexible sealant used to seal metal-to-metal engine-cases. I lay down the thin bead on the outside-edge of the top side of the gasket. This gives an additional barrier on the outside of the high-pressure oil-channels.
Old 05-09-2010, 06:54 PM
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A little blue Loctite on the bolts on the exhaust side helps too - they can back out.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:49 AM
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1. use a torque-wrench and DO NOT EXCEED the torque-recommendations. Also follow the tightening sequence outlined in the manual. If you don't, you'll end up pinching or squeezing it out or ripping it.


where can I find the torque recommendations?
Thanks.
Old 05-10-2010, 10:44 PM
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Torque spec is 15 ft.lb. or 20 Nm. Careful with the sealant. Squeeze out into those oil passageways could be a real problem. I tried some Curil-T on that gasket once. I used very little, ended up having to pull the tower right back off to remove a broken bolt, and there was sealant squeezed out into the oil passageways. Not worth it IMHO. Clean it really well with acetone and install the gasket dry and it should be fine.

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Old 05-11-2010, 07:28 AM
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