Drivers side CV joint bolts snapped

scottydog51 · 05-31-2010, 06:28 AM

Been awhile since I posted but things have been okay up until now. When I was leaving a stop sign i heard a pop and the car wouldn't move. Got it towed home and looked underneath only to find the bolts had snapped on the CV joint and it had pulled out of the wheel assembly. I am going to pull the axle off and replace it but am unsure how it attaches to the wheel assembly as that is were the rest of the bolts likely are. If so how do I get the broken bolt pieces out?
I will likely go with a used axle and rebuild this one any thoughts greatly appreciated..money an issue.
Thanks
scott

ddbach · ddbach's Garage

Here's what you need

Stage8 Locking CV Bolts for ALL 924-944-968

Check with ideola

John_AZ · 05-31-2010, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottydog51

I will likely go with a used axle and rebuild this one any thoughts greatly appreciated..

money an issue. Thanks scott

As much as I have promoted ideola's excellent CV joint bolts, to keep repair costs low, I would suggest getting standard bolts from Pelican and a tube of CV grease (fills 4 CVs)

Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

You may not need a used axle if all of the bolts worked their way out of the axle stub. If it was a slow process, maybe only the final couple of threads stripped and you could still reuse the axle. If it is damaged beyond repair, and you remove the axle, a used is fine.

Later you can upgrade to ideola's SuperSet CV joint bolts.

GL
John

scottydog51 · 05-31-2010, 07:46 AM

First thanks for the replies so far. From the replies I think I may have the wrong wording it isn't the axle I'm replacing it is the Drive Shaft? the shaft from the wheel to the tranny. I think the bolts may still be in the "axle" and this is what I need info on how to get them out of the axle? Also if a used drive shaft(inspected) would be okay.
Again thanks for the replies.

John_AZ · 05-31-2010, 08:24 AM

Inspect the stub "axle" when you get under the car. IF the bolts snapped off on the axle you will have to remove the stub axle nut ----Torqued to 350 foot pounds.

Try to put a couple of bolts back in the axle. With luck you should get a couple or more in.

DIY tip--lift car---put on axle nut a quality socket with 2 foot breaker bar--slide 3 foot galvanized pipe over breaker bar-----Put solid cement blocks under galvanized pipe----slowly lower the car and let the weight of the car loosen the nut

Usually the axle shaft/CV joints have no damage unless the CV joint was damaged by the bolt failure. Used are a gamble because the used CV jount may have ball bearing race grooves.

Check what your axle condition is and post for more answers.

GL
John

scottydog51 · 05-31-2010, 08:37 AM

Thanks again john,

This gets more and more interesting. As soon as I get the time I will R/R the drive shaft and hopefully there are no bolts broken off in the axle? I like the idea that there usually is no damage to the CV joint this i will also check when I get the drive shaft off.

I will post back with more questions I'm sure. I will need to re-think the used drive axle? Supposedly they are inspected and re-greased etc?

scott

Slam · 05-31-2010, 09:11 AM

Whereabouts in Canada are you? Perhaps there's a member close by.

scottydog51 · 05-31-2010, 09:13 AM

Brandon Manitoba Canada, boy if only I could be that lucky?

Scott

Slam · 05-31-2010, 09:14 AM

Yeah - too bad, as that's a bit of a drive for me!

scottydog51 · 06-01-2010, 03:07 AM

OK I took the drive shaft off and my worst fears are confirmed there r 5 of the 6 bolts broken off in the axle shaft. Now can i hopefully just remove the axle nut and push the axle out so I can drill the broken bolts out with a bolt remover or will i need to take the whole axle ass. apart bearings etc? Anyone been able to get pieces out without shaft removal, center punch and drill axle in place. Axle looks ok alittle scoring were CV joint sit. I will clean CV joint up, inspect and repack if ok. Big problem is axle shaft with broken bolts?
Thanks,
Scott

John_AZ · 06-01-2010, 04:10 AM

That is bad news,

You could try to remove the wheel hub nut by using the parking brake.
You may have to rent a 3/4" impact wrench if you have a compressor.
Here is the normal procedure.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/susp-09.pdf

If the nut does not come off..........
Are all the bolts flush with the axle? Maybe use a vice grips on the bolt stubs.
You could try to drill a small hole and try eazy outs.
You could try to use a Dremmel style rotory tool and get a groove in the bolt to try a screwdriver.

Drill out the bolts with smaller size drill bit and re thread/tap the holes and hopefully catch the original threads.

GL
John

scottydog51 · 06-01-2010, 05:34 AM

Hi John..Again thanks for your input and yes they have all snapped flush. i would like to remove the axle so I can take it to work and have the broken bolts drilled and removed. i just can't tell from Clarke's procedure if I need to remove all the brakes,spacers, bearings etc. or if can i just take off (if possible) the axle nut and drive the axle stub out? If I can't, I will try to center punch and use what the millwrights call a left drill bit designed to remove broken bolts?? Doing this without removing axle could be a challange but no-one said owning one of these cars was going to be easy.
Thanks,
Scott

Slam · 06-01-2010, 07:25 AM

Fastest repair would be to pick up a good used stub axle and tear down that side while you're waiting for it to arrive. Wheel off, remove Mofo-nut, remove whatever brake hardware's in the way and knock the axle out. If it was me, I'd take the opportunity to R&R the bearings and seals too. You may get lucky removing the broken bolts, as since they're broken, after all, there's no pressure on them. Either way, I'd say that axle has to come out. You really don't want to be squirming around under the car with a right-angle drill, especially since the muffler's in your way.

scottydog51 · 06-01-2010, 09:36 AM

Thanks "Slam" for the input, with the drive shaft off I think I can get at the broken bolts. I will try and if not go the route you suggest. i will post when I try it.
Thanks,

scottydog51 · 06-04-2010, 03:21 AM

I got all the equipment to drill out the broken bolts(5) got under the car began to work and I lucked out all the bolts I backed out just with the center punch hand tight.

So I will next clean up the CV joint,check and repack. Parts on way from Pelican grease and bolts. I'm a happy camper.
Scott

John_AZ · 06-04-2010, 03:27 AM

Good news!!

Take your time when you clean and repack. Wear gloves. The bearings will fall out of the CVs if you bend the race too much. They will pop back in---just take your time.

John

Slam · 06-04-2010, 07:54 AM

Beware proper torque values for those CV bolts. Go to 30 ft-lbs, NOT 18! The reason they have a reputation for backing out is that they're often under-torqued because of a misprint in Haynes (IIRC).

And congrats on your good luck!

scottydog51 · 06-04-2010, 09:10 AM

Thanks guys for all the input I will be careful and take my time. Also good to know about the torque specs.
thanks,
Scott

scottydog51 · 06-06-2010, 05:47 AM

I thought while awaiting parts I would clean the CV joints and get them ready. I followed Clark's procedure and cleaned the joints.(i decided to do both)The twist is that my paint marks came off with the cleaner? Now what I don't have any idea how the original orientation was. If I put them togethere will this be a problem? Is there anything I need to know about putting them togethere?
Thanks.
Scott

TSNAPCRACKLEPOP · TSNAPCRACKLEPOP's Garage

ive slipped them in willy nilly, rebuilt them by running in the reverse direction, and i am still alive.

look for a wear pattern or scoring, or mark where the bolts worked their way out.
that might give you a hint.