Door Handle Seals

[ewalt98]

Has anyone replaced their door handle seals recently?

I just R&R'd my door mech per the tech center process (and now my door latch is easy to operate again!), but when I put everything back together, I was unable to get the new door handle seals to work.
Essentially, they are too small, particularly the larger seal towards the rear of the car:
171-837-211A-M5350
This seal is about 6mm shorter than the original.
BTW, the actual number on the new seal is 191-837-211A, but the part number on pelican and the bag they came in is the 171 number.

I tried to stretch it on, but the lip on the seal kept folding under the handle, so I couldn't get the handle to lock into place.

I've got an email to pelican regarding this, but I thought I'd see if any one of you had run into this before.

Thanks
Eric

[techartisan]

my old ones were wrecked so Ive no comparison measurements...though old rubber has a way of stretching and spreading. The new ones did seem a bit smaller then necessary...and almost a bit misshaped. I got them on with stretching...but not overly thrilled with them...fortunately they arent terribly noticeable now that my cars black....if she were still silver Id be considering alternatives.

[Rasta Monsta]

New old stock. . .my hood badge seal was the same way. I think they shrink sitting in the bag.

I had some success dipping it in boiling water right before install to soften it up.

[Cocacolakidd]

Same results with the new Door Mirror Mount Seals - they are all to small. Probably made by midgets ...

Door Handle Seals, Door Mirror Seals, Door Handle Seals and front Panel Badge Seal - they are very difficult to mount correctly and look decent, all of them.

[ewalt98]

Well, I went back out to the garage last night to try again. Using the same method I use to glue new tires on my bike wheels, I stretched the heck out of the door seals until they were about to break, then put them on and used the handle mounting screw to pull the handle into the final position. I then had to use a small flat piece of plastic to get the seals edges out from under the handle.

I actually thought about warming them in H2O, but then I would have had to walk back into the house

Looks OK, though I'm not convinced they will seal any better than the worn and ripped originals....

At least the rear hatch lock gasket looks like it would be a perfect fit.

[962porsche]

welcome to the world of porsche vw and audi . in my body shop we use a heat gun or heat lamp to get them good and hot they then become very pliable and will go in with ease .

[awilson40]

Also, you will find that the replacement seals dont last like the original. They seem to be more plastic than rubber.
I dont see why the molding and seals on a 20 year old car last better than replacements.
Even on newer cars. I look at 4 year old cars whose rubber trim is split and cracking while my 22 year old car looks better.

[Cocacolakidd]

welcome to the world of porsche vw and audi . in my body shop we use a heat gun or heat lamp to get them good and hot they then become very pliable and will go in with ease .

Ahh - the tricks of the trade that make things possible and easier ...


It seems as if the newer seals are made of a type of plastic and not the original rubber - or so it seems. Plus the newer plastic compounds do not stand up to the Sun's UV rays as well as the old seals - just a thought.

[ewalt98]

Originally Posted by Cocacolakidd

the newer plastic compounds do not stand up to the Sun's UV rays as well as the old seals - just a thought.

Which seems counter intuitive, until you realize the newer stuff needs to be produced in a more environmentally friendly manor. The parts don't last as long, but at least we can breath. Maybe in another 20 years the seals will be better????

Since these seals are used on other cars (vw and audi), there may be a one-size-fits-all syndrome going on. I am saving my old seals, just in case the new ones don't last too long.