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ZDDPLUS additive
was wondering if anyone adds the ZDDPLUS oil additive to their oil....adds zinc and phosphorus back to the oil..and firstly, does the 944 have the flat tappet or roller...this additive is designed for flat tappets...
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flat - direct cam to lifter contact
also curious where to get it.. |
looks like just online so far...ZDDPLUS
http://www.zddplus.com/index.htm or http://www.rsbarn.com/zdd_additive.html or http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/ZDDPlus.html |
ZDDP is included with Red Line, Royal Purple, and Brad Penn oils. Other oils are reducing it for emissions purposes, and (at least anecdotally) can destroy your cam.
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how would it destroy your cam? never heard that before
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OK..I'll bite....would you mind explaining why it would destroy the cam.....some people rave about the Brad Penn oil and use nothing else and use it because it has a small amount of the ZDDP in it....and it's not cheap at $10-11 a quart.......so at $10 a bottle for the ZDDPLUS--seems like a cheaper alternative......haven't used either so I don't know first hand....so the ZDDPlus claims to save your engine by reducing wear :
the ZDDP molecule quickly plates over the contact surface with an extremely thin glass-like film and provides a sacrificial coating. As soon as the engine conditions get back to normal, the film dissipates back into the oil solution. This action prevents the lifter and cam from making contact and greatly reduces the tendency of parts to scuff and gall under heavy-loaded boundary lubrication situations. ..it sounds good, and at one time I'm sure the oil used in my car prior to 1988 had it in it.... |
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I see, so what they are saying is that the lack of ZDDP in our oils is destroying our engines..just ordered some from Lindsey racing..putting it in with my next oil change
Zddp Oil Issues |
Lucas has a zinc or ZDDP product sold at Advance. I'm skeptical of any "pour it into your engine and make it run better" bottles. I'll just stick with Mobil 1 I think...
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man, i get brad penn for 52 a case with tax.....that's only 4.34 a qt....
on a jeep site I visit: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428969&highlight=cam+lobe+wear good pics for what can happen to hydraulic lifters |
i think you are reading your information wrong. older oils had higher levels of zddp which our cars need, the new gf certification has much lower amounts than what our cars are used to seeing, so without the zddp we have a chance of damaging the engine components not with.
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I highly recommend, Don't do it..
Visit my page, I have some very important updated info on that ZDDP stuff. It will clog up your oil filter screens and etc. Upgrade to a better Synthetic lubricant instead. Later... |
Find some old-style Rotella T 20W50 if you can. You're in AZ, so it's warm there. They still made it with high levels of ZDDP for diesel trucks and whatnot up until reccently, and small auto parts stores may still carry the older jugs of it. It's cheap, plentiful, and from my experience works great in these engines.
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I use Brad Penn 20W-50 and love it. Even if it is a few bucks more per quart...why screw around with something so important like engine oil...especially in a 20+ year old engine? I can see cutting corners in a lot of places...but not here.
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it's amazing at how much discussion there is over oil, and how many things people assume, but turn out to be wrong
i recently found out, and it was investigated with the manufacturer who verified it, that an oil many people love, does not hold up beyond 260 degrees, which is very commonly hit on the track - it resulted in 3 engine failures on 3 different cars in one day, and they were the only cars to fail like that i'm not going to mention the oil, because i don't want to get into the inevitable "i've never had a problem" presumptions that people tend to make, but the bottom line is that you need to look at the chemical makeup and the data, and not just your buddy's recommendation as for ZDDP, there is plenty of data out there to support the need - i am not a fan of additives, and prefer to buy something with the correct compounds already in it |
i guess its good mine doesn't see the track or much stop/go city driving then.......
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I'm with Schumi on this one.
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It seems as if a can of worms is opened every time we talk about what engine oil is the best for our cars. Spend the time to read up on several brands of oil and the one you now use. You can then make an informed decision on what oil you should use. If you cheap out on the oil you should change it out more frequent as the additives will break down faster. No real savings there. The newer cars have longer periods of when they say to change the oil. Where you live, hot and dusty or humid all plays a part in oil changes. I only know what works best for me, and my cars have been on a steady diet of Brad Penn for years. I change the oil out every 6 - 7 months and I'm not a 45 mph Grandpa.
Cheers, Larry |
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