Fumoto oil drain valve

[JGriff]

I know that someone recently mentioned this in a post, but I did a search, and I didn't find the info. So... sorry for any redundancy.

I ask this question in preparation for my first oil change on my S2. I haven't even crawled under the car yet, so pardon my ignorance of the drain plug location etc.

I've used these valves before, and I am planning on installing one on my S2, but I was just curious which one I should get... the one with or without the nipple?

I believe that someone here posted that they installed one, and JB-Welded a fitting to point the oil downward. Wouldn't the valve with the nipple more or less accomplish the same, if I attach a hose to it, as recommended by the manufacturer? Perhaps they didn't offer the one with the nipple when you bought yours?

It may stick out a bit more (than the one without the nipple), but the drain plug sits more or less horizontal, doesn't it? In other words, there isn't a problem with the nipple hitting the ground or anything, right? It would stick straight out, right?

Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the (S2) engine, and the drain plug location/oil pan? If so, can you post it or e-mail it to me? It would save me some time for putting the car up on ramps and crawling underneath it just to get the answer to this question.

Thanks.

Jim

P.S. Valve website is http://www.fumotovalve.com.

[IceShark]

Assuming the S2 is more or less the same as the 951 underbody, yes that nipple one will work fine. I would have used it rather than gluing in an elbow but they didn't make it way back when I bought it.

So, yes, the drain plug hole is horizontal and things won't risk hitting the ground. You will need to cut out a little larger slot in the aluminum belly pan to make the nipple one fit, but that shouldn't be any problem what so ever.

[JGriff]

Originally posted by IceShark
So, yes, the drain plug hole is horizontal and things won't risk hitting the ground. You will need to cut out a little larger slot in the aluminum belly pan to make the nipple one fit, but that shouldn't be any problem what so ever.

I guess I'll have a better idea of what you mean once I climb under there. Why is it necessary to cut out a slot in the aluminum belly pan? Is there only enough clearance for the OEM drain plug? So you had to cut out a slot for the non-nipple version as well? What did you use to cut out the slot? Tin-snips?

Is there any negative effect of cutting the belly pan? I'd hate to negatively impact something else just for the sake of putting one of these valves on. I like these valves, but I don't want to use it at the expense of something more important.

Thanks.

Jim

[IceShark]

Jim, the whole point of this gizmo is that there is an aerodynamic aluminum belly pan that butts fairly close to the bottom of the oil pan. It is cutout to expose the bottom of the oil pan, but not by much. So while it is possible to extract the original oil plug with the belly pan in place, it is tough, you will want some protection from hot oil on your hands, and in any event the hot oil will run all over the top of this belly pan and very little into a container. And the belly pan will drip like a dog in heat for a month. So you really need to remove the belly pan every time you change oil or do this trick.

And the belly pan studs will end up breaking off or stripping after taking it off too many oil changes. Then you have to retap into the frame, etc.. Which is why I found this solution, the hard way.

Once you get under and see what I'm talking about, you will see the light. This trick is much more important to us than "normal" applications.

And when you see the light, you will see that cutting an inch or so out of this belly pan at this drain position is no big deal. Heck, many cars have lost this whole pan because of the pain in the ass factor.

Mark your dimentions and remove the pan. To cut the slot out I had tin snips available, but used a hack saw; the AL is sort of thick with a turned edge to make it hard to cut neat with tin snips. Cut the two legs, bend the strip down and finish the cut. Then have a small fine file to finish off professionally if you would like. You are making a U cut.

[JGriff]

Originally posted by IceShark
Jim, the whole point of this gizmo is that there is an aerodynamic aluminum belly pan that butts fairly close to the bottom of the oil pan. So you really need to remove the belly pan every time you change oil or do this trick.

That’s what I figured, kinda’ like the one on my Audi.

And the belly pan studs will end up breaking off or stripping after taking it off too many oil changes. Then you have to retap into the frame, etc.. Which is why I found this solution, the hard way.

And when you see the light, you will see that cutting an inch or so out of this belly pan at this drain position is no big deal. Heck, many cars have lost this whole pan because of the pain in the ass factor.

Right now, mine is off the car. The PO had taken it off. I was planning on putting it back on when I did the first oil change. Hopefully, all of the studs etc. are still in good condition.

Does this belly pan also help with aerodynamics, or is it just for underbody/engine protection? What is the harm if I don’t reinstall it? I’d prefer to put it on, and am planning on it, because Porsche obviously put it on there for a reason. I’m just wondering how disadvantaged I’ll be if I can’t get it back on due to stripped studs etc.

Mark your dimensions and remove the pan. To cut the slot out I had tin snips available, but used a hack saw; the AL is sort of thick with a turned edge to make it hard to cut neat with tin snips. Cut the two legs, bend the strip down and finish the cut. Then have a small fine file to finish off professionally if you would like. You are making a U cut.

Did you also have to cut a hole for the oil filter? Or is it already accessible with the belly pan on as it came from the factory?

Thanks. I greatly appreciate the info.

Jim

[IceShark]

You want to keep those belly pans (3 of them) on because they: 1) improve the general areodynamics of the car, 2) improve the specific airflow through the engine bay, which, hard to believe, will get hotter at speed if you remove, 3) cuts down on all the road debris that would wind up in the engine bay.

I guess if you really push the argument, there could be *some* protection factor as in a skid pan, but you are off in "Area 51". You will crunch the bottom of the oil pan first as it is open to everything. Though some guys have lost various parts from getting whacked with road debris popping up hard off the tires that the belly pan would have stopped. Electrical connectors are good targets for a rock.

Fix the stripped studs and threads to get the pan back on. You *want* the pan on. Send me a note over at Rennlist if you need help on figuring out what to do as I don't stop over here much.

You really haven't looked at your car! Your oil fiter comes out "upside down" from the top of the engine bay. So no issue with belly pan. Hope someone mechanical is going to help you out with this first time through. This reminds me that you want to get a "cap" style oil filter "socket" which fits on the flats on the end of your filter, which is hopefully Mahle. Find a metal socket that works with your standard extensions off your wrenches. *The Only Way To Fly.* And stuff some rags/paper around the filter before you take it off because it is going to leak as you pull it off, up, and out. Oil system is a really bad design in these cars all around.

Now send me a 6 pack of good beer for all this help! LOL!

[JGriff]

Originally posted by IceShark
You want to keep those belly pans (3 of them) on because they:

I am planning on re-installing it once I get a chance to crawl under there.

Fix the stripped studs and threads to get the pan back on. You *want* the pan on. Send me a note over at Rennlist if you need help on figuring out what to do as I don't stop over here much.

I’m not sure if they are stripped. It might just be a matter of re-installing it. I believe that the PO said that it is okay… it just has to be put back on.

You really haven't looked at your car! Your oil filter comes out "upside down" from the top of the engine bay. So no issue with belly pan. Hope someone mechanical is going to help you out with this first time through.

Nope, I really haven’t looked at it very closely yet. With the holidays, I haven’t had the time to spend out in the garage “playing” with my new “toy”. After the New Year, I should be able to go out and tinker a bit.

I’m relatively mechanically-inclined, and have done quite a bit of work on my cars over the years, especially oil changes, so I am not apprehensive about doing this work. I am just asking a lot of questions, I suppose, just so that I am educated and prepared ahead of time. I’m sorry if I’ve been premature in asking for advice and questions… that is, without first crawling underneath and poking around.

This reminds me that you want to get a "cap" style oil filter "socket" which fits on the flats on the end of your filter, which is hopefully Mahle. Find a metal socket that works with your standard extensions off your wrenches. *The Only Way To Fly.* And stuff some rags/paper around the filter before you take it off because it is going to leak as you pull it off, up, and out. Oil system is a really bad design in these cars all around.

Thanks for the tips/tricks. I do have one of those oil filter cap style sockets, of the type that fit standard ratchets. It definitely is a big help, and the only way to do it correctly (given the often difficult locations that won’t allow for a strap wrench).

I’ll definitely have a large supply of shop rags and drain pans handy, that’s for sure!!

Now send me a 6 pack of good beer for all this help! LOL!

Are you kidding? It’s cold out there in MN right now!! Wouldn’t you instead want a nice frothy cappuccino with some Bailey’s Irish Cream thrown in?

Jim

[IceShark]

LOl! I'm starting the kero heater on low in the garage now. For tommorrow evening, Just to get temps/things back up a bit.

We are below 0 F at the moment so doen't send any good Beer as that will freeze and crack the bottles. A fine old bottle of Scotch will do fine. We won't get that cold I hope.

[JGriff]

Originally posted by IceShark
LOl! I'm starting the kero heater on low in the garage now. For tommorrow evening, Just to get temps/things back up a bit.

We are below 0 F at the moment so doen't send any good Beer as that will freeze and crack the bottles. A fine old bottle of Scotch will do fine. We won't get that cold I hope.

With all that cold, and all that snow, surely you folks must be synthetic oil users and quattro or 4x4 fans, that's for sure!!

Do they still broadcast the frostbite factor on the radio stations there?

Happy New Year!!

Jim

[IceShark]

He, he, he. Yeah, it is called the "Wind Chill" factor. Which usually doesn't mean much as long as you don't have bare skin exposed like hands and ears. I also thought it was sort of a scam; believe me when the REAL temperature is -40F it is a heck of a lot colder than -40 wind chill!

Last year my scam thoughts were confirmed when the weather guys changed the way they report wind chill. The old way was to measure wind speed 30 feet off the ground. Well who walks around on 30 foot stilts? Now they measure it at 5 feet or so and the factor has dropped quite a bit.

Anyway, you are going to be pleased with this little valve.

[Rob-O]

Just thought I'd chime in here...

I've heard that when pulling the filter off you might want to take a sharp instrument and pop a little hole in the top of the filter. That releases the pressure in the filter and allows the oil to drain back into the pan. This supposedly eliminates the oil all over the place when you pull the filter off upside down (as we all have to do).

Don't know about the flow through the filter and if popping a hole in it would allow all the little particles that your filter just trapped to drain back into the pan along with that oil...

[IceShark]

Popping a hole in the filter doesn't work for crap or even at all if you have the proper filter with backflow flap.

You can arrange a plastic grocery bag under the filter, pop the filter into it quick and then pull the mess up and out.