Baffling no start 84 N/A

[alfadoc]

Just got the 84 N/A back together that came to me with bent valves. No start. I am certain that everything is timed correctly. Compression 160-165 lbs across the board. I have tach bounce, spark at the plugs, and I am certain that the speed and reference sensors are hooked up correctly. The fuel rail pressurizes when the key is in the start position, and my noid light shows signal at the injector connectors. Pulled the fuel rail and I have decent spray pattern on all four. The car has a known good DME relay, as I pulled it out and tested it on my S2. By all that makes sense, this car should start. Anyone?

[kdjones2000]

Speed/Ref sensors are backwards? Wires not in correct order?

[alfadoc]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

Speed/Ref sensors are backwards? Wires not in correct order?

Connector labeled DG goes to sensor closest to firewall. Raised rib on distributor cap body correlates to #1 plug wire, ordered 1-3-4-2 in clockwise rotation.

[DannoXYZ]

Sounds like speed/ref sensors are OK if you're getting injector pulse.
Connect noid-light to coil-terminals and see if you get pulsing there.
One side should be +12v at all times and the other side is grounded by DME to dump coil.
Check that rotor is attached firmly to cam. There's TWO screws that hold it all together.

[alfadoc]

Rotor is definitely attached with both fasteners. If I'm getting spark at each plug, wouldn't that indicate the coil is ok? My testing technique is to take a spare spark plug, pop it into the plug wire, ground the plug to the battery via a jumper cable, and crank it over. Definitely getting spark.

I've been wrenching about 40 years. Stuff just usually doesn't stump me. Crazy.

[Aey]

I have similar problem 2 weeks ago which drove me crazy. See my post here. I checked everything as you described, but still no go.

Turned out to be the classic one, bad reference sensor! Although I get sparks and injector pulses too, it doesn't mean they are at correct timing. Reference sensor (the one in front) controls ignition timing. My reference sensor connector are in bad shape and I don't have any spare connector, so I just remove the connector and solder & heat shrink wires together. Started on the first try!

Might worth checking the sensor.

[thomasryan]

Idle control valve functioning (not enough air) and or temp sensor (not enough fuel)?

[alfadoc]

Thanks all. I know it will get solved. Checking for signals from the flywheel sensors seems a smart next step. An old school paper copy of the FSM would be handy right now.

[alfadoc]

Threw the battery on the charger yesterday and walked away. Incubation time often helps me solve problems.

Checked a couple more things today and attempted to start the car. I noticed a pop-pop-pop sound from the exhaust that I recognize as incorrect ignition timing, like when the distributor is 180 degrees out. Set the car on TDC, pulled the distributor cap, lo and behold the rotor was pointing to #2, not #1.

Turns out the camshaft retaining collar was not engaged in the camshaft woodruff key correctly. Got it all put right and the car fired immediately and runs great. An embarrassing goof, but I felt I needed to own up to it here for the benefit of future users.

Thanks all.