1981 924 won't start when cold

[Ater]

I have a great 1981..Been not want to start when the temp is colder out, found out if i floor the gas,when cranking the starter i could get it to run. but now the temp has drooped below 20 it wont start at all,this is my every day driver any help me get my car home?

[RC924]

You`re not in Australia eh?

Check that your CSV squirts fuel while cranking.

[Ater]

In Illinois USA..

[Ater]

got it to start, but took a lot of cranking still not stating very good when cold out

[wild man]

Did you check the CSV? That is the first thing to point the finger at, with the symptom that you are describing.

[924RACR]

Yeah, CSV and thermo-time-switch (which controls the CSV). Odds are the electrics powering those (or grounding them - have you checked your grounds???) are not working properly.

[Rasta Monsta]

Feel free to carve this in stone:

STEP ONE: Verify fuel delivery volume per FSM.
STEP TWO: Obtain CIS pressure tester and verify hot & cold system pressures per FSM.

Without doing the above, any testing/replacing of other fuel system components is a massive waste of time, and will lead to stupid stuff like "hot start switches" and kids with six toes.

[RC924]

Step 0.1: Buy at least a Haynes manual.

step 0.2: RTFM

Then progress to checking the CSV. as has been said previously. Unscrew 2 small bolts, pull it out, place in a bottle / whatever, and see if it squirts fuel when the starter is cranking. Then post the results, continue checking connections, grounds, TTS, wiring, etc, or just wait for summer to come.

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

......... and kids with six toes.

ROFLMAO

Yep, anything`s possible.

[Ater]

Im so new to this Porsche world I have no idea where theses are or what they look like

[wild man]

A rookie, huh?

Don't worry, the majority of us were one of them at one point in time. If your at least half way smart (maybe even only a quarter), you'll get through this, and everything that will come afterwards.

[931GT]

Originally Posted by RC924

Step 0.1: Buy at least a Haynes manual.

Its likely your COLD START VALVE is not functioning, possibly not hooked up to 12V, not grounding properly, or less likely is the valve itself is shot. But you need to GET THE HAYNES MANUAL. Also, google "PET Porsche 924 Kat" to locate and download the parts catalog. This will familiarize you with the what parts look like and their locations.

[924RACR]

Also, if you get in over on the 924 board (924board.org) there's a half-decent chance we've got another 924 guy in your area who might be able to help get you up and running... No promises, but...

[Rasta Monsta]

Here's a good overview of your fuel system, so you can start assimilating how it works:

Auto-Solve Diagnostic Assistance

[Ater]

Thanx guys Been looking think i found the CSV there are extrat cables hooked up to it that run to the inside of the car hooked in to a pull on push off toggal it makes a diffrance once the car is running if I push it in for off but it dont help the car to start. I will look into all these and hope I can trace it down. Is there anywer to get a CSV Cheep? if that is the case?...PS I got it running as we of moment but the temp is above 30 today.. Still had to floor the gas as i cranked but it finly did fire..

[wild man]

I would suggest getting rid of the switch setup and fixing it properly, so it is controlled by the TTS.

If you want cheap, you need to go to a JY. Make sure you get a CSV and a TTS.

It is possible that the car does not even have a CSV (sometimes referred to as a CSI - that's what the man [bosch] calls it) that is of the correct flow rating. Check the #'s on it. There is a good chance that the problem is the TTS though, since someone went thorough the trouble of hooking the CSV up to a switch. It could be partially clogged, also. Electrically speaking, make sure that are both grounded well, and that both have 12-14 volts to them when cold. After a certain temperature is reached, The TTS will cut power to the CSV, shutting off the flow from it.

[924RACR]

The way that toggle SHOULD be hooked up is that you turn the ignition on, pull the toggle on for maybe 3-5sec, then off and crank the car. If it's working properly. Not factory, but that is how it should be rigged up.

When warm out, but cold motor, you won't need more than a blip of time on the toggle. When the engine's warm (warm or cold external temps), you won't need or want any of it all.

Consider it a "prime" toggle - it should function exactly the same as pumping the gas on an old carb-equipped car, shooting gas directly in for a cold start.

If you do it on a hot engine, you'll flood the engine.

Again, this assumes it's properly configured; if you hook up a test light (I'm assuming you don't have a multimeter?) in place of the CSV, it should light up when the toggle's pulled, correct?

Note that the ignition must be on, fuel pump running (pressure in system) for this to work. If your fuel pump doesn't come on unless the engine's cranking, then pull the toggle before cranking, and push it in the appropriate # of seconds after turning the key to crank.

Oh, yeah - and if you can repair the wiring to stock, get it all working properly, the electrics in the thermo-time switch will do all of this automagically for you.

[924RACR]

PS - we have basically this same setup on our teammate's car, a '79 924, and it works quite well. My 924 racecar, also a '79, uses the stock setup.

[wild man]

My opinion: Eff all that crap and fix it RIGHT. It really isn't that big of a deal.

[Ater]

I have posted some photos in a new thred take a look and you'll see why I care for this car so much.... title (photo's of Ater's 1981 924)